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Does hangboard training work

TonyB

23-Sep-2010
6:16:21 AM

I use my fingerboard for short periods daily with a couple of 10 minute sessions weekly. It has greatly improved my grip strength, much more than climbing a couple of times a week. I reckon it's worth a couple of grades. My board is in the garage so its easy to use whenever I'm passing. It does tend to take focus off the feet though.


ajfclark

23-Sep-2010
7:29:30 AM

On 22/09/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>... Actually not that either, as the real answer is 2000.
>~> This being the milestone number of posts that another Chocky addict
>has racked up!
>Congrats4ezajollygoodposter etc!
>☺

f---, really?

*goes outside*


ajfclark

23-Sep-2010
8:35:31 AM

Yeah, I've been recovering from a finger injury. Last time I was off climbing for a few months I repaired a pinball table. This time it looks like I've had a less productive hobby.

widewetandslippery

23-Sep-2010
11:27:55 AM

For the average pumter (ie. eg. me) I'm not convinced pull ups on edges are the best way to use this tool. The benefits to fingers and pull strength are compromised by each ones weakness. A more trained and athletic trainer willl have greater synergy (not exactly the word I'm after but it will do) between "holding" and "puling" ability.

A board that has jugs to be used essentially as a pull up bar is a good idea. A sling or something to hang lower so you can do uneven pullups is good to.

A selection of edges that can be used for short hangs for maximum recruitment and a larger one for doing core work while hanging is a good idea to.

Yes core work whilst hanging is also a compromise but it will make you tough. Being tough gets people up routes.

An idea I've been told of also is having 2 boards, one above the other. Stick an extra bit of ply under the top one and use the lower profile board as the lower board. You can do all standard type hangboard training and have a little footfree bouldering set up. Again I'm not sure how beneficial this is for the punter. The fella who told me has 30 move problems......

bl@ke

23-Sep-2010
2:06:21 PM

Yeah they work. Iv drawn numbers under the holds on mine and do a sorta problem and then work on trying to lap the problem. But I usualy just get to pumped to continue before I work out enough to feel sore the next day.

There are 25 messages in this topic.