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General Climbing Discussion

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cook or aspiring ? ? ?

maxots

21-Apr-2004
9:57:59 AM

I have joined the anu mountaineering club with the intention of learning as much as I can this winter, and then doing a course in new zealand in the summer and staying for some mountain fun! I already ski and will be learning as much as i can in our 'mountains' this winter, so I would probably not do a total begginers course, maybe AlpineGuides TMC
http://www.alpineguides.co.nz/programs/tmc.htm
or the AspiringGuides alpine ice
http://www.mtaspiringguides.co.nz/courses2.htm

Anyway something that assumes some previous experience...

SO

Do you guys recommend either compnay over the other, either because of the area they work in (cook vs aspiring regions)or experience with the company (prices are fairly similar, and its quite a bit anyway, so a little bit doesn't affect my choice greatly) OR should I go with a complete begginers course as i haven't spent much time in REAL mountains, and so should start from scratch ???????

are there any other options i should consider,
thanks greatly
max

James

21-Apr-2004
10:27:41 AM

either course would be fine - I did a alpine guides course simply because it was the longest (ie more time in the mountains). The only real prerequisite for a TMC is being able to tie a figure 8. Don't try to compare Australian mountains to the NZ mountains (you'll end up real dead real quick otherwise). Skiing is good, but I doubt anyone else will have skis with them in summer so skiiing skills will probably be redundant (winter is different of course). Unwin Hut is the place to hang out & meet climbers.

shmalec

21-Apr-2004
12:22:46 PM

think this has been covered in other threads but...
My advice would be to gather a couple of mates and go hire a guide independantly of the companies.
You will have more flexibility and more control over the abilities of those you are climbing with. It will also probably be cheaper and you'll get more time with the guide. You can go where you want for as long as you want.
Look up NZ Alpine Club, sunrockice.com, New Zealand Mountain Guides Assoc etc. There are lists of qualified guides online with contact details.
Expect to have lots of down time in bad weather. Good luck.

Romfrantic

21-Apr-2004
1:17:34 PM

I agree with shmalec...I would recommend to get your own program together with private tuition and get a few mates to join you who have similar climbing/outdoor experience and aspirations - makes the whole learning experience a little more fruitful. Such arrangement is relatively easy in NZ. And set aside enough time for an 8-10 day course 'cos the weather is really something over the NZ hills - quite humbling.

In fact, they say you're probably better off going with a guide based in Wanaka 'cos, depending on the weather forecast, you have the choice of relatively easy travel to either the eastern side or western side of the Southern Alps. For example say if you base yourself at Mt Cook Village (east side) and the forecast looks better for the "westlands" then it is a long way around to get to the good stuff....at least a day wasted.

James

21-Apr-2004
3:25:06 PM

the wanaka guides might be better for the weather issues mentioned (often they head up to MCV anyway), but if you're heading over by yourself then I still reckon MCV is the way to go. Aspiring is more remote than MCV & so I reckon its easier to find climbing partners in MCV. If you really want to go to Aspiring then hook up with someone in mt cook & head down from there. If you do go with mates then plan for the contingency of them getting scared & heading home early (wouldn't be the 1st time).

PS: if the locals say to go to Wanaka to go rockclimbing becuase its raining too much at mt cook, then treat such advice with skeptcism.

johnk

21-Apr-2004
4:57:31 PM

All good points.
My personal experience was that as I was not able to organise a group of friends I booked myself on an Alpine guides TMC course with very limited prior experience. There were only two others on the course (ie. three of us) and one guide. My advice is book yourself in for the longest course possible (eg. like a TMC) and try and get to the Mt Cook side of the Alps. This is most likely the area that you will return to in the comming years and the most popular mountaineering area in NZ with enough mountaineering there to last a lifetime. Best to be familiar with this area from the beggining. Try to get some rock climbing in before you go and get as fit as you can possibly get. Flying and walking out also provided me with the best and most realistic scenario of what you are likely to face in the future.

julian.A

22-Apr-2004
10:53:56 AM

ALG and MAG are both good guiding companies. They will both taylor a trip for you if you want. I havn't been a client with either but know a few of the guides. AGL create good future clients, if you are a climber already you might find their course a bit slow. They also seem keen to stay around tas saddle/kelman areas, and often "encourage" flying out. MAG operate at Aspiring and Cook, so location isn't an issue, because they are based in Wanaka they will often fly into Pioneer from the westcoast (while everyone else is stuck in MCV).
Don't rule out other companies like Adventure Consultants, or contact independant guides ( several of the guides share a parks concession, insurance, etc), this could be cheaper. The NZMGA has a list of all guides on their website.

kieranl

22-Apr-2004
10:08:34 PM

All good advice. Just remember the NZ alps is nothing like here. "Objective danger" is everywhere and that's the stuff that can kill you even if you have done everything right.
Gorgeous place but.

There are 8 messages in this topic.