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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 8 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180
Author
Boganville

tnd
2-Jun-2010
9:11:49 AM
So I'm looking at this crag in the new guide and there's some pretty neat route names there...

Cash Register Ethics
Show Me the Money
Glue Ain't Cheap
Cheque or Savings
etc

...do I discern a theme here? ;-)

And of course the all time classic:

Orders from the Fatherland

Butters81
2-Jun-2010
10:19:06 AM
Brilliant!
yankinoz
2-Jun-2010
10:47:33 AM
love it. hope they stick.

that approach doesn't sound appealing at all.
Linze
4-Jun-2010
5:09:42 PM
On 2/06/2010 tnd wrote:
>So I'm looking at this crag in the new guide and there's some pretty neat
>route names there...
>
>Cash Register Ethics
>Show Me the Money
>Glue Ain't Cheap
>Cheque or Savings
>etc
>
>...do I discern a theme here? ;-)
>
>And of course the all time classic:
>
>Orders from the Fatherland
>
Greeeeeeaaaaat.......... this is all turning out brilliantly for the climbing community!! (not taking sides, but kinda wondering...)were these made up by the publisher?? does this mean that the next stage in a personal squabble now means that the information in the guidebook is not just missing but purposefully incorrect??... after all that stuff about the ‘interest of the greater climbing community’ do we have pages in the publically available guide dedicated to a private agenda??... .... i agree with what a mate said last night – if this is what it sounds like it is(havent seen the guide yet bc it is sold out at the gym!!) then it should have just been put to bed with the climbs being called A,B C etc...
egosan
4-Jun-2010
5:22:53 PM
On 4/06/2010 Linze wrote:

>Greeeeeeaaaaat.......... this is all turning out brilliantly for the climbing
>community!! (not taking sides, but kinda wondering...)were these made up
>by the publisher?? does this mean that the next stage in a personal squabble
>now means that the information in the guidebook is not just missing but
>purposefully incorrect??... after all that stuff about the ‘interest of
>the greater climbing community’ do we have pages in the publically available
>guide dedicated to a private agenda??... .... i agree with what a mate
>said last night – if this is what it sounds like it is(havent seen the
>guide yet bc it is sold out at the gym!!) then it should have just been
>put to bed with the climbs being called A,B C etc...

Meh, Fcuk 'em if they can't take a joke. This kind of thing does no harm other than to bruise some egos. Funny for the rest of us.
dmnz
4-Jun-2010
5:35:26 PM
On 10/05/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>
>Very good points. To gather some threads - God created the earth - therefore
>God created the route - therefore God holds the intellectual property rights
>to the route. The Man made in God’s image (because we all know that women
>were made out of Adam’s rib and are only here to temp the righteous man)
>then bolts the route without the express permission of God – God then invents
>corrosion as a way of chopping (as God supposedly moves in mysterious ways
>(as evidenced by the figure 4 move)) thus ensuring that Man may die if
>it is God’s will, and no doubt end up in Hell for the not doing the route
>trad in the first place – as God is definitely a beard stroker.
>
>I hope this clears everything up.
>
Funny stuff
crank_n_up
4-Jun-2010
8:33:06 PM
> Meh, Fcuk 'em if they can't take a joke. This kind of thing does no harm other than to bruise some egos. Funny for the rest of us.

Well, hopefully those bruised egos will play the joke back in some way. Say, pull out a few bolts that these egos have put in, maybe at Boganville or elsewhere. Now that would be funny.

rodw
4-Jun-2010
8:43:38 PM
Cry more????

Chuck Norris
4-Jun-2010
9:02:51 PM
On 4/06/2010 Linze wrote:
then it should have just been
>put to bed with the climbs being called A,B C etc...

As a member of the climbing community I am grateful for the laugh that i got when reading the published route names.

Not taking sides but the artifice of "naming routes" and "first ascent" is a construct of the climbing community. How can a name for a lump of rock (no matter how much metal it has been vandalised by) be "incorrect", let alone "purposely incorrect".

Having "your" route named in a guide with your name on it is the climbing community tipping its hat to your efforts - and its one that is pretty well respected in Oz. (despite the wide variety of characters the "climbing community" attracts). Your friends wanted more than a tip of the hat and gave two fingers to the guidebook writer. He gave two fingers back. Give two fingers, get two fingers - thats a rule of life. Why do your friends expect better treament than that.

rodw
4-Jun-2010
11:53:06 PM
TBH easy fix.....do own write up in ACA site and see what names stick.
jono_1
5-Jun-2010
9:40:20 AM
On 2/06/2010 tnd wrote:
>So I'm looking at this crag in the new guide and there's some pretty neat
>route names there...
>
>Cash Register Ethics
>Show Me the Money
>Glue Ain't Cheap
>Cheque or Savings
>etc
>
>...do I discern a theme here? ;-)
>
>And of course the all time classic:
>
>Orders from the Fatherland
>

Classic. I can't believe people are trying to make money out of bolting crags! What a load of crap. Who is going to pay you. Definately not a guidebook author - how much money do you think Simon is going to make from this guidebook. Not much I would guess for the amount of work he has put into it.

You bolt a climb or a whole crag for the love of climbing (or bolting!), for a first ascent, for your ego or you just love spending a whole day hanging on the end of a rope with a big drill or you have no friends or can't find any partners or your body is smashed to pieces from years of abuse or you making up for not touching a drill for the first 20 years of your climbing life.

I have never but a bolt into the rock. Yep I use other peoples bolts all the time and I'm grateful for all the time and money people put into bolting. Maybe I should donate some money/time one day. But if all new route/crag bolting stopped tommorow I couldn't care less and I'm guessing a whole lot of other climbers couldnt care either.

You can't force climbers to pay for a crag to be bolted or an old route to be fixed up. What are you going to do. "Tickets please, $2 a climb". Get real.

If it costs you too much to go bolting, well just go climbing. Climbing should have nothing to do with money.

hargs
5-Jun-2010
2:19:46 PM
... and wifey.
Olbert
8-Nov-2010
12:51:31 PM
If only 8a wasn't such a shitty site, maybe i'de have registered and written something
maxdacat
8-Nov-2010
1:14:09 PM
Also an interesting thread going on at UKC:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=431533

regarding the topos rockfax is producing for French crags....anyone who has used the old (current?) Ceuse guide will perhaps appreciate the modern select guidebook writer's efforts.
drdeviousii
8-Nov-2010
10:45:08 PM
sounds like your all trolling but I'll bite.

Don't try to compare Euro & Australian guide-author-ethics (if such a thing exists) or bolting efforts, its almost a different sport. You'd have more luck comparing lawn bowls & rock climbing.

rodw
9-Nov-2010
8:15:12 AM
Lol the drama continues....

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2418769

rodw
9-Nov-2010
8:48:19 AM
I think the whinging needs to become official...heres the form to fill out...


TonyB
9-Nov-2010
9:56:40 AM
On 10/05/2010 BundyBear wrote:
>It had about 7 bolts + lower offs and robably about half a tube of Ramset
>101. I figure someone owes me about $25 ??

;-))
The average donation to charity in Australia was $424 per person per annum. (2005) Americans donate almost 7 times as much. This is equivalent to about 110 new bolted routes per climber, per annum.

I doubt that the average climber's donation to bolting would be anywhere near this amount. Quibbling over the donation of a handfull of new routes at Boganville is nonsense.

jam
9-Nov-2010
10:34:20 AM
if they're so selfless and happy to share their crag, and they do all this bolting and route-finding for the good of the climbing public, and are putting in their hard earned money and time for us...

... then surely they would want to be in a guide? otherwise it's not selfless and noble is it.. it's all for themselves.

you can't swing it both ways, but you've tried to

nmonteith
9-Nov-2010
12:09:29 PM
I've climbed routes that Simon has bolted at Araps, grampians, point perp and boroomba. Saying he has never bolted anything is a plain lie. This anon troll needs to get his facts straight. Also implying the majority of new routers in the Bluies are not happy with Simon is also crap. One quick glance at the contributors page in the front of the guide proves this.

 Page 8 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180
There are 180 messages in this topic.

 

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