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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
Author
araps 9-12th april

Tel
30/03/2004
2:17:55 PM
I am off to my first ever trip to araps next week, its a VCC trip and I have been preadvised that " no guarantees can be given that we will have enough leaders to ensure a climb unless you have your own rack and rope and can lead."
Given that I don't lead I figured that I might try and tackle some of the boulder problems, so is a crash pad essential and are there easy to moderate boulder problems that I can have a crack at, ( I will get a guide book but I am bust for the next few days)

So any recommendations on boulder problems and crash pads( what sort, make, price etc)
thanks
terry

Rupert
30/03/2004
2:50:01 PM
Hey Tel - I know it sounds a bit harsh, but I'd say the VCC trip leader is probably just alerting you to the fact that the Arapiles trips are often very popular, and as such the trip leader can get swamped with people wanting to be hauled up climbs. He/she might only have a couple of other people (if any) on the trip who volunteer to lead.

I'll leave the bouldering question to someone who knows...

Tel
30/03/2004
2:57:39 PM


hey Rupert , yes I understand that and have no problems with that at all, I am quite happy to just be a belay bunny, and with what you said

> the trip leader can get swamped with people wanting
>to be hauled up climbs. He/she might only have a couple of other people
>(if any) on the trip who volunteer to lead.

I figured it might end up just like that which is why I threw out the bouldering query, thanks anyhow though
terry

dalai
30/03/2004
3:17:57 PM
On 30/03/2004 Tel wrote:

>is a crash pad essential and are there easy to moderate boulder problems
>that I can have a crack at?

The bouldering at Arapiles caters well for those looking for easy to moderate problems. Really don't need a guide, just walk around Central Gully or below the cliff to the Pharos. If you are after a guide, the Tempest Best of guide has a bouldering mini guide in the back. Though this uses a lame grading system (almost as archaic as the B grading system).

As for a bouldering mat, a nice idea but not a necessity. Just use a bit of common sense and care when selecting problems. As unless you plan on bouldering alot, money will be better spent improving your rack for when you do start leading. Just take a small square of carpet to stand on and wipe your feet before stepping off the ground.

The bouldering at Arapiles is undervalued IMO. You will not be disappointed if you spend time bouldering at Arapiles.

Cheers Martin
dalai
30/03/2004
3:43:29 PM
Unfortunately I don't know of a conversion chart for the grading system used. Other than suggested V grades for a few problems:

Animal Acts V1
Golden Slime V0+
Finalgon V4
Attack a headless/helpless chicken V5

and a couple of the other harder problems...

Tel
30/03/2004
4:23:41 PM
dalai, thanks for the info, it inspired me to do a hunt and this is what I found, it seems to coincide with with your suggested grades, you have probably seen it
http://www.natimuk.com/arapiles.net/boulder__1.html
there is also another two pages.
WM if you havn't seen this you may find it helpful re: more inspirational

anyone done some of these mentioned in the link,
dalai
30/03/2004
4:29:13 PM
Yes, bouldered at Arapiles quite a bit over the years. We can talk some more on Sunday.

anthonyk
30/03/2004
5:10:18 PM
why can't people just pick a bloody grading system and stick with it??

even the sydney bouldering guide claims the numbers they use aren't V-grades, but something like it. and there's a lot of discrepancy between various areas (eg a 4 at lindfield could be more like a 2 at sissy). surely people could just pick a grading system and make their best guess at how a problem fits in that system, instead of using some arbitrary scale that doesn't match with someone elses arbitrary scale.

but hey i usually have more fun when someone says 'hey try this one, its cool..' without knowing the number attached to it, its amazing what you can do when you don't know what you can't do.

as for mats, i've been using a MD's home brand one, i'm pretty happy with it and it was quite a reasonable price. nice and broad and fat and firm and has backpack straps (v. handy). don't forget they'll soften up over time so don't buy one thats too soft.

phil box
31/03/2004
12:06:18 PM
What a coincidence, I`m going to be down at Araps on those dates too. I`ll be in the Brisbane Rock Climbers club camping area, hopefully in the pines. If anyone wants to say hi then that`s where I`ll be. Just look for the bushy greying hair on a skinny guy. I hope I can catch up with you guys whilst I`m down there.

Tel
31/03/2004
3:30:49 PM
excellent look forward to it ...i'll be easy to spot too, just look for a guy with a guide book walking around in a circle ....:-)
Duncan
31/03/2004
4:11:09 PM
Is anyone not going to be at Araps over the Easter long weekend?

To answer the original question: there is heaps of cool, easy bouldering all over the place. Just wander round til you see a line you like, do it and repeat. A recipe for an awsome day.

Rich
31/03/2004
4:14:36 PM
ah nah i doubt anyone will be at araps during the easter break.. usually pretty quiet ;-)

nmonteith
31/03/2004
4:23:35 PM
Three years ago their was offiically a thousand people over easter. I got the hell out of there. No way i am queing for the toilet and the water tap.

Tel
31/03/2004
4:55:20 PM
So ..where will easter find you this year neil any big plans

nmonteith
31/03/2004
6:08:00 PM
Moonarie - my first trip to the big moon! Expect lots of pics when i get back...
dalai
1/04/2004
9:49:07 AM
On 30/03/2004 anthonyk wrote:
>why can't people just pick a bloody grading system and stick with it??
>even the sydney bouldering guide claims the numbers they use aren't V->grades, but something like it.

The Arapiles grading system was probably created as the initial guide book writers may not have experience in the V or Font system. And it's far easier to fit all problems into a 5 grade system.

The Sydney bouldering guide (which I think is a brilliant resource - great work by Ballint) has most probably used the 'like V grades but not quite' to avoid the numerous grading arguements that would arise. (this 8 feels like V7 etc). Therefore if it doesn't quite match the V system - the easy answer is that it isn't a V grade!

For the guide book writer, it would be a lot more work if unsure of the V grades given to problems in the initial version of the guide. To release a collection of small run's of the new guide with feedback going into the reprints until concensus is reached and a final batch could be printed would be a big job!!

Robb
1/04/2004
10:01:24 AM
Moonarie is the ONLY place to be at Easter. see you there. hehe
James
1/04/2004
10:07:26 AM
so Neil, I'll be expecting lots of arty-farty pictures of trees & birds & stuff. Don't spoil it with any actual climbing pictures

Rich
1/04/2004
10:07:47 AM
yeh a few of us were going to head to moonarie for easter, cept now looking at the bluies

Nicky
1/04/2004
9:00:15 PM
On 1/04/2004 beefy wrote:
>Moonarie is the ONLY place to be at Easter. see you there. hehe

That's the fifth person I know going there now... all saying how quiet it should be!

Werribee Gorge is looking good.... :-)

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There are 45 messages in this topic.

 

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