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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Author
Launceston City Council Chops Cataract Gorge Bolts
gfdonc
18/02/2010
12:45:15 PM
Apologies if I sound a bit blasé given the way LCC has gone about this, but Cataract Gorge is one of the only 'cliffs' I've ever visited where I couldn't be bothered getting the gear out of the car.

(yawn)
hotgemini
18/02/2010
12:50:39 PM
Often the real issue isn't the specific climb, crag, cliff being discussed but the broader ramifications that stem from it being considered acceptable to ignore the climbing community as a relevant stakeholder and in turn what this means for future access discussions.

So, anyway, more info is up on thesarvo, if you're a local climber and would be interested in attending a meeting to discuss the issue with LCC then post up your details there.

-Adam.
hotgemini
19/02/2010
5:36:51 PM
So I thought from what I'd been told by the senior council staff that this was pretty much sorted with a positive resolution as of yesterday afternoon but having spoken again with the local climbers I'm very disappointed to see that this isn't the case, it seems I get spun a different line because I'm an interstate climber than what they tell the people on the ground.

So what I'm looking for is about 18 or 20 non-tasmanian climbers who have climbed in tassie (say in the last 5 years) who'd be willing to put pen to paper, I'll help with the drafting so it should only take ten minutes out of your day. If you match this description, please send me an email to kangaroopoint@qld.climb.org.au


-Adam.
Access T CliffCare
19/02/2010
7:27:04 PM
Hi Adam,

Have sent you an email.

Will be putting something together on behalf of the VCC and also asking members to put voices forward.

cheers,

Tracey

ajfclark
20/02/2010
8:25:08 AM
Does anyone have a link to what the council said? Maybe I need another coffee but I can't find it...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2010
9:05:29 AM
On 20/02/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>Does anyone have a link to what the council said? Maybe I need another
>coffee but I can't find it...

... hotgemini wrote;
>So I thought from what I'd been told by the senior council staff that this was pretty much sorted with a(snip)


~> It isn't in writing yet(?)
Winston Smith
20/02/2010
9:17:30 AM
Well mate I'm sure Bob McMahon and hundreds of other climbers would disagree with you.

The place is a gem of easy and moderate crack climbs and harder bolted lines in the middle of a lovely city.

I used to regularly go for a climb at lunch time.

Toal, is that the correct spelling of your surname?
bl@ke
20/02/2010
11:17:55 AM
I found the gorge to have some really cool climbs. But i still prefer arapiles :)
dalai
20/02/2010
6:34:03 PM
On 20/02/2010 Winston Smith wrote:
>Well mate I'm sure Bob McMahon and hundreds of other climbers would disagree
>with you.
>
>The place is a gem of easy and moderate crack climbs and harder bolted
>lines in the middle of a lovely city.
>
>I used to regularly go for a climb at lunch time.
>
>Toal, is that the correct spelling of your surname?

This is taking the discussion OT. It shouldn't matter the quality of the climbing, all such actions should be fought against.

Having said that, I walked through the gorge in January all the way up to the old power station (I was over for the Christmas track carnivals and the Launceston Criterium) checking out the cliffs. I didn't climb so can't comment on how they do actually climb but I was pretty unimpressed at in particular the height of some of the bolted blocks.

As you suggest a good local lunch break spot but not somewhere on the interstate tour...
gfdonc
20/02/2010
9:41:09 PM
On 20/02/2010 Winston Smith wrote:
>Toal, is that the correct spelling of your surname?
Yes.
egosan
21/02/2010
3:28:45 PM
The issue has crossed the ABC news desk with a typical lack of detail or understanding.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/02/19/2825038.htm

rodw
21/02/2010
3:55:44 PM
"temporarily removed the access bolts "..wtf..didnt know they could just stick the angle grinded ones back on :)

nmonteith
21/02/2010
9:09:16 PM
Although the routes sometimes don't look like much they climb really well. Superb rock quality and friction - a bit like gritstone in some ways. I've had several days of awesome climbing in the area.
hotgemini
25/02/2010
4:11:40 PM
An update, local climbers met with the Launceston parks manager and a Launceston alderman today to discuss this issue.

As posted by Ian Ferrier on TheSarvo

G’day All,

Just a quick update on today’s very successful meeting. The council has agreed an error was made and that the bolts can be replaced. It appears the officers on the ground made the call to chop the bolts without any further consultation. Climbers will be notified in future if anything similar occurs again. Ongoing we will be reviewing the code of conduct to allow for temporary lockout of climbs should a rock fall occur . This may just involve the use of a simple padlock on the bolts while the area is assessed. All in all a very positive outcome. The council were overwhelmed with the response and did not realise climbers were so passionate about their sport.

Cheers,

Ian


This is a victory, in speaking with Ian on the phone he told me that the parks manager had remarked that after the response to this incident they never wanted to interfere with another bolt again. They are going to have a follow-up meeting to look at incorporating managing issues like this into LCC climbing management plan and given the significant outcry over the incident from the climbing community I'm reasonably comfortable any changes they come up with will be compatible with the views, concerns and desires of the climbing community.

Its nice to have a win, a big thank you to everyone who took the time to get involved.

-Adam
rockranga
25/02/2010
4:32:47 PM
That's great news, hoping to climb in tassie later in the year and knowing there's a few more climbs out there makes me tingly all over.

I notice the statement says the "Bolts can be replaced".... who's replacing them? The climbing community or the council? Has there been any talk about this?
hotgemini
25/02/2010
4:37:47 PM
In my earlier discussions with the council they mooted covering the costs for a local route equipper to repair the damage done by the council workers, I'd assume this still to be the case unless I hear otherwise.

-Adam.

Phil Box
25/02/2010
4:41:19 PM
On 25/02/2010 rockranga wrote:
>That's great news, hoping to climb in tassie later in the year and knowing
>there's a few more climbs out there makes me tingly all over.
>
>I notice the statement says the "Bolts can be replaced".... who's
>replacing them? The climbing community or the council? Has there been any
>talk about this?

My take would be to not push our luck. We have just had a huge win, we should not rub salt into the wound. Let's just get on with replacing the hardware. The Tassy guys should set up a fund for the reequipping of existing routes when and wherever needed around Tas. Heh, might be good to start with restoring the rap route on Ben Lomond. ;))

EJ
25/02/2010
4:59:19 PM
On 25/02/2010 Phil Box wrote:
> The Tassy guys should set up a fund for the reequipping of existing
>routes when and wherever needed around Tas. Heh, might be good to start
>with restoring the rap route on Ben Lomond. ;))

Hmmm, this is a good point Phil. Maybe we should establish the Ben Lomond Bolting Fund, to be managed by the Climbers Union of Northern Tasmania ;)

On a more serious note the setting up of a bolting fund is not a bad suggestion. I was having a look at how the NZAC have set one up. In light of the recent Hillwood fires, its likely that some of those routes may need reequiping (I haven't seen the damage yet).

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/02/2010
5:27:15 PM
Thanks for the feedback hotgemini. It is good news thanks to all the pro-active people who responded.

I agree with PB re;
>My take would be to not push our luck. We have just had a huge win, we should not rub salt into the wound. Let's just get on with replacing the hardware.
Access T CliffCare
26/02/2010
10:25:24 AM
Great work and great outcome Ian and Adam and all who made the effort!

cheers,

Tracey

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There are 42 messages in this topic.

 

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