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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
Author
new Blue Mtns guidebook -- call for info!

pmonks
23/01/2010
7:10:12 AM
How about including bouldering areas?

I realise a comprehensive guide to bouldering (describing individual problems) is a whole guidebook in itself, but at the least it'd be good to include an overview of each of the Blueys bouldering areas (approximate number of problems, general quality, grade range, rock type, etc.), their location and access, etc.

The Sydney guide did this, with the details left to the dedicated Sydney Bouldering guide, and although I'm clearly biased I think it worked out quite well (climbers who occasionally boulder are well served, while boulderers can go &*@% themselves ;-) ).

Snappy
24/01/2010
12:51:14 PM
My only grievance with the previous edition was that mixed climbs with carrots and trad were listed in the colour coding scheme as trad - they were black. Which on more than one occasion had myself and people I know showing up to climb something with only a couple of spare brackets to do a almost fully bolted climb with a couple of placements.

Mixed is mixed, even if it's carrots.

dmnz
24/01/2010
3:37:16 PM
On 15/01/2010 b dubya wrote:
>On 15/01/2010 voodoo wrote:
>---
>>I have a copy of the 2007 addition and I have to say it can be pretty
>>difficult to locate climbs, especially where it's a climb that doesn't
>>appear on a photo (or a whole area is without a photo).
>>
>>What would really assist is if some of the 'hardware' information was
>>included in the description (eg "5 FH to DBB"). The Sun Surf and Sandstone
>>guide is a beautiful example of this style, and I find it one of the
>easiest
>>guides to get my bearings with. You can simply look up the rock and
>spot
>>the routes based on the pattern of hardware present and very quickly
>work
>>out what you're standing in front of. This is especially useful at a
>crag
>>where none of the climbs are initialled (which is a bit of an annoying
>>trend!).
>>---
>
>x2... overall a great guide - and the pics in there are great - really
>get me fired up to
>climb :) cheers

The Queenstown Rock Ice and Mixed Guidebook has quite a good layout/style and includes info like no. of draws needed, etc, with lots of photos if you want a reference. Taht being said, they obviously have a Lot less routes than appear inthe Blueys.
onsight
16/02/2010
2:29:34 PM
bump

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the feedback, I've noted what's been said even if I haven't had much time to respond lately.

Many many thanks to everyone who has sent in information and corrections. The help and enthusiasm for the book has been simply awesome! I'm certain it'll be a big improvement on the previous editions.

I don't know the final figure yet but we're looking at covering something towards 3000 routes.

As usual the project has blown out a bit and is running a few weeks late -- but nothing major given the size of it and the extra things we've decided to do.

I'll try fit in any new routes at the 11th hour but probably can't guarantee anything past early next week... And if your new routes are gonna stuff up any of my layouts then sorry you're already too late! (Kidding, kind of anyway). Maybe some sun this weekend...

superk
16/02/2010
3:33:59 PM
The previous guide was good as, id suggest a few more photo topos with the lines drawn on its always helpful to find where you are on the crag. marking campsites is a good idea too.
SummitSlag
16/02/2010
11:31:18 PM
hey simon
do you know what areas are in for sure in the new guide and if you dont mind what areas might make the cut in the new book.

i would love to see a list might be good to get it up to and see what people think about it before it goes to the publishers
nerdgerl
17/02/2010
12:29:29 PM
On 24/01/2010 Snappy wrote:
>My only grievance with the previous edition was that mixed climbs with
>carrots and trad were listed in the colour coding scheme as trad - they
>were black. Which on more than one occasion had myself and people I know
>showing up to climb something with only a couple of spare brackets to do
>a almost fully bolted climb with a couple of placements.
>
>Mixed is mixed, even if it's carrots.
>
>

I second this as have also been caught out!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/02/2010
4:36:03 PM
Hmm. How mixed is mixed?
Is it more mixed when small wired-nuts are slipped over bolt heads?
~> Maybe this is why ringbolts are now gaining popularity, as it negates being caught out??

Possibly introduce another colour coding for the 'mostly sport' category?

onsight
17/02/2010
10:34:28 PM
On 24/01/2010 Snappy wrote:
>My only grievance with the previous edition was that mixed climbs with
>carrots and trad were listed in the colour coding scheme as trad - they
>were black. Which on more than one occasion had myself and people I know
>showing up to climb something with only a couple of spare brackets to do
>a almost fully bolted climb with a couple of placements.
>
>Mixed is mixed, even if it's carrots.

That sounds like an error my end, it should have been marked as mixed. Can you remember which climb/s specifically?

Snappy
18/02/2010
12:18:25 AM
On 17/02/2010 onsight wrote:
>On 24/01/2010 Snappy wrote:
>>My only grievance with the previous edition was that mixed climbs with
>>carrots and trad were listed in the colour coding scheme as trad - they
>>were black. Which on more than one occasion had myself and people I know
>>showing up to climb something with only a couple of spare brackets to
>do
>>a almost fully bolted climb with a couple of placements.
>>
>>Mixed is mixed, even if it's carrots.
>
>That sounds like an error my end, it should have been marked as mixed.
>Can you remember which climb/s specifically?
>

Mt Boyce - The Eyrie
- Set, Piece Battle
- Air2Spare

Pierce's Pas
- Darkside

They are just the ones I remember doing, my friend did something at Zig Zag (I think) with the same issue, and I think it may have happened at Piddington once too.

I will repost if I remember anymore.


Snappy
18/02/2010
12:23:03 AM
Looking through my guide,

Honey Dip at Zig Zag has the description "difficult past bolt" so that could be the one my friend did, but I am not sure. But I think more likely it was "Rainy Day Saturday" by the description of the climbing - not confident about that though.


wallwombat
18/02/2010
7:56:58 AM
I don't mean to be over-critical here but I reckon that if you go up to the Blueys, intending to climb easier climbs at some of the older style crags such as Piddo, Zig Zag or Boyce and don't have a few bolt brackets in your chalk bag, you're a bit of a twit.

And as M9 said, it's pretty easy to loop the end of a small/medium wire over the head of a carrot and then cinch it tight.
Wendy
18/02/2010
8:08:00 AM
I guess you're already aware of the Thing1 and Thing 2 confusion?

Snappy
18/02/2010
9:14:13 AM
On 18/02/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>I don't mean to be over-critical here but I reckon that if you go up to
>the Blueys, intending to climb easier climbs at some of the older style
>crags such as Piddo, Zig Zag or Boyce and don't have a few bolt brackets
>in your chalk bag, you're a bit of a twit.
>
>And as M9 said, it's pretty easy to loop the end of a small/medium wire
>over the head of a carrot and then cinch it tight.

How about you re-read my original post, where I said I only carried a few spare brackets, before you start calling people a twit.

Air2Spare however, had something like 12 carrots from memory, and a few placements, and was marked as a trad climb.

Yeah, if you doing a trad climb chances are you have nuts on you and you can slide them over a carrot, so it's not exactly the end of the world, but it seems to be a mistake, so why not fix it?

wallwombat
18/02/2010
9:29:00 AM
No need to get snappy!
onsight
18/02/2010
10:11:28 AM
Thanks for the info Snappy, that's great.

On 18/02/2010 Wendy wrote:
>I guess you're already aware of the Thing1 and Thing 2 confusion?

Oh yeah, thanks Wendy, we've sorted the thing thing.


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There are 36 messages in this topic.

 

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