Ultra O Keylock Screwgate 25 12 7 kN
NB Ideal with tape slings and for use on Ascenders etc...
Anodised ALL BLACK. (Great for theatrical rigging?) $29.00
Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
On 4/09/2009 anthonyk wrote:
>well these are the manufacturers recommendations on fitting ( http://www.sportiva.com/prod
>"Remember to factor in stretch. Unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch
>a bit more than lined shoes -- about one full size. Lined shoes stretch
>about a half size." - note Katanas are lined shoes, not unlined.
>"While it isnít a black or white issue, a general rule dictates that soft
>shoes require a tighter fit, two to three sizes smaller than your street
>shoe size." - these are more than 3 sizes under street size
>"Remember: a well-fit comfortable shoe will work better than an ill-fitting
>its pretty elitist to say that because you like super tight shoes then
>thats how you should recommend them. and its pretty arrogant to say that
>because your shoes stretched right, then anyone else who's shoes didn't
>stretch enough doesn't know what they're talking about. ..have you ever
>considered that the fit you got might actually be larger?
Katanas stretch like no other rock shoe I've owned. Street shoe 46/7 and Katanas 42. Most normal rock shoes I'm like a 45 or so.USed them for sport and bouldering. For trad no way, I'd go bigger. Perhaps you should've told him what you wanted to use them for as well as what you wanted. Lot of boulderers I know will pull on their shoes, climb the problem then promptly pull them back off. For them, tighter is better, least that's what they legitimately think so it's fair if they offer that advice to you. Some of them have never lead gear routes and are not interested in it. Although I sympathise with you, I think it just comes down to a communication problem here
You've had your say here (tell all your friends etc) and in the shop so now it's time to vote with your feet (or wallet as it were) and move on. Some seem to agree with you and others don't. Pretty normal here and most have been pretty polite for here too.
On 3/12/2011 dmnz wrote:
> Some seem to agree with you and others don't. Pretty normal here and most have been pretty polite for here too.
Yes. It is amazing the change in flavour that has occurred for as little as two years!
I have worked in several outdoor retailers and I have sold hundreds of rock shoes to climbers. The best tactic I have found is to let the customer decide and never try to persuade them even when you're right. I have just let people walk away with shoes that are far too big for them. In my experience I have found that when you convince somebody the shoe is tightly right for them they always come back and ask to return them. So the best thing to do is say the tighter the better but let them decide and never convince them.
Then I'll see them down the local crag or wall with the shoes I sold them floppy around all over the place and they will say to me that they should have got the size smaller.
Most places offer a full refund if the product is in as good as new condition. So in hindsight if you weren't convinced by them you should have just worn them around the house and seen what they were like after 2 weeks. This is something I have always suggested. When somebody brings shoes back and they are in brand new condition a refund is always offered.
This should've have been suggested to you too. Also the sales assistant sounds inexperienced and hopefully he has learned his lesson. Have you wrote a letter to the owners? That should help you out a bit.
There are 143 messages in this topic.
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