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Top ten very exposed climbs - give me your list


Superstu

11-Jul-2009
7:34:32 AM

i'll have to give it another whirl next time i'm down south; mind you, the "bunched up" bit suggests it might be hopelessly cramped and difficult to negotiate for a tall bugger

patto

11-Jul-2009
11:27:42 AM

On 11/07/2009 superstu wrote:
>i'll have to give it another whirl next time i'm down south; mind you,
>the "bunched up" bit suggests it might be hopelessly cramped and difficult
>to negotiate for a tall bugger

I don't believe it would be too bad if your tall, in fact it might be easier. You climb the crack and then you start what seems is a delicate traverse. You need a looong right step to gain the decent foot holds. Just when you start to think this aint a grade 15 move you realise that there is a killer hand plant jug behind your head on the lip of the roof. You pull the move with ease and gain the good footing leaving you belayer puzzling how you actually did it.


Superstu

11-Jul-2009
8:35:32 PM

ah ha. i recall the delicate step across, the pause to consider the not-grade-15 move, then doing a not-grade-15 move to finish. oh well!


gordoste

13-Jul-2009
1:38:18 PM

i think you did the slab variant like me stu... it's definitely 16 and maybe 17.


foreverabumbly

13-Jul-2009
7:24:16 PM

without looking into the last page, im assuming your talking about Arab?

I find it easier to just jam the whole way across, there is a bomber finger lock aroiund the corner I reach for while smearing desperatly for that right foot.

rolsen1

13-Jul-2009
8:10:50 PM

On 11/07/2009 superstu wrote:
>ah ha. i recall the delicate step across, the pause to consider the not-grade-15
>move, then doing a not-grade-15 move to finish. oh well!
>
>

There is a hold, that I couldn't find or get but is there. Probably need to be tall and probably why it gets 15 in the guide.

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