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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 8 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 174
Author
WARNING: 169 kg breaking strength lower offs.

nmonteith
13/11/2011
9:29:51 PM
So if my memory serves me right there are three remaining of those clip-and-go death biners in the Grampians. They are...

Invisible Fist - Taipan Wall. There is an old backup bolt already in place. I have no idea if people are sensible enough to use it - or they are just lowering off the single clip-and-go for convenience sake.

Forever Young - Koalasquasty Wall, Hollow Mtn. This is another of the deadly single point anchors with no redundancy. If would be great if a local could disable or remove the clip-and-go ASAP.

Back Stabbath - Upper Tribute, Hollow Mtn. There is a backup bolt and biner already in place. No great urgency to remove the clip and go - but if someone could do it that would be grand.

The easiest way to disable one of these is to just remove the actual wire bit of the wire-gate. I found using a small pair of leatherman pliers i could easily remove it. Takes a moment and could save a life. With the wire gone people will just thread the bomber wide u-bolt instead.

figs
21/02/2012
10:29:07 AM
On 6/04/2009 mikl law wrote:
>Didn't have any hardware with me on Sunday, but I see that atop Rubber
>Lover at Wave Wall is a combo of 1 cast and 1 bentwire. I must remember
>to take at least a spanner (or visegrips) and shackle or replacement biner
>in future

I noticed the other day that the cast-looking one is still there. One of the lower offs was connected to its bolt via a mallion that was bent open. Can't remember if it was the good or bad lower off.
ademmert
21/02/2012
10:35:08 AM
Invisible fist should be fixed next time im up there
kp
21/02/2012
10:38:01 AM
I have mangled the one on forever young and added another bolt. Will try and fix it up completely ( & back stabbath) when i get some new hacksaw blades....
ben wiessner
27/02/2012
12:25:09 PM
KP I'm heading out to fix up Forever Young this w/e. No amount of heat or rain will stop me this time!
ben wiessner
13/06/2012
5:30:33 PM
The clip-and-go is gone from Invisible Fist! Thanks to the many who helped with the sawing.

mikllaw
13/06/2012
5:43:43 PM
hard work sawing while hanging in a gstring (what all climbing harnesses feel like after 10 minutes)

nmonteith
13/06/2012
6:38:06 PM
Scarier hanging from a nylon harness with an angle grinder!

nmonteith
13/06/2012
6:51:44 PM
There is one of these death clip-and-goes on Attack of the Clones @ Bungonia Gorge. Just one joining two bolts.... (shudder). You can thread through a higher mallion and ignore the clip-and-go but I doubt many people would be doing that.
One Day Hero
13/06/2012
7:16:04 PM
On 13/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>There is one of these death clip-and-goes on Attack of the Clones @ Bungonia
>Gorge.

Are you sure it's one of the dodgy cast ones, Neil?

benjenga
13/06/2012
7:18:43 PM
Yeah I can confirm that it's a crapy lower off. I shall replace it next trip down there.

nmonteith
13/06/2012
9:25:55 PM
On 13/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Are you sure it's one of the dodgy cast ones, Neil?

100% sure. I was too psyched with the flash to replace it at the time and last weekend it was way too seeping for a repeat.

nmonteith
20/06/2012
4:35:08 PM
Spotted another one of these on Pale Yellow Underwear at Thompsons Point. I disabled it by removing the gate, so now you need to thread through some mallions instead which are in a bit of a strange configuration. Someone should donate a screw gate to it.

Also removed another one from Sloth which was placed on a single ring - the ringbolt it was attached to seems to be dodgy as well. No visible glue. Maybe capsule?
One Day Hero
20/06/2012
4:41:03 PM
I thought the Pale Yellow Underwear one was ok. Neil, what criteria are you using to judge whether these are cast or bent?
Mr Poopypants
20/06/2012
6:17:42 PM
On 13/06/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>hard work sawing while hanging in a gstring (what all climbing harnesses
>feel like after 10 minutes)

Mikl - I'm impressed you know what it feels like to hang in a g-string!
:-)

Sonic
20/06/2012
7:12:58 PM
Yeah I could swear the one on PYU was fine - I've been on that thing a million times. In any case, Ill be there on Saturday so ill stick a beefy biner on it seeming I liked that snap and go as it made cleaning my Thommo's warm-up nice and quick!

You know, if you're gonna disable it, why not donate a biner yourself? Or is that too big a request?

nmonteith
20/06/2012
9:06:23 PM
On 20/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I thought the Pale Yellow Underwear one was ok. Neil, what criteria are
>you using to judge whether these are cast or bent?

See page 1 of this thread. Very easy to identify. Dodgy cast ones attachment point is a fully joined hole - the proper good ones have a gap in the circle as the rod has been bent rather than cast. Please look at page 1 and reacquaint yourself with how to identify these!
hotgemini
20/06/2012
9:07:05 PM
Something like the climbing technology pin captive carabiner.

http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/Climbing-Technology-Captive-Bar-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Gate.html

That said, I prefer a pair rather than one, regardless of carabiner make, model, size, strength.

benjenga
20/06/2012
9:12:04 PM
See on Saturday Gav. I am bringing my cordless grinder to replace the tickled pink anchour if you want to use it then all sweet.

nmonteith
20/06/2012
9:20:02 PM
On 20/06/2012 Sonic wrote:
>Yeah I could swear the one on PYU was fine - I've been on that thing a
>million times. In any case, Ill be there on Saturday so ill stick a beefy
>biner on it seeming I liked that snap and go as it made cleaning my Thommo's
>warm-up nice and quick!
>
>You know, if you're gonna disable it, why not donate a biner yourself?
>Or is that too big a request?

In the last week I've rebolted two routes with my own money. My own cash isn't an infinite supply to pay for the rest of the climbing communitys problems. You can still lower off the mallion, it's just a bit awkward as the mallion gets cross loaded. The whole anchor should be replaced really. It's a mix of shit old chains and expansions.

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There are 174 messages in this topic.

 

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