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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 14 of 17. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 335
Author
THE AUSTRALIAN RETRO/RE-BOLTING OPEN FORUM

HEX
19/08/2004
6:51:28 PM
Ya standing tall Neil --- well done !

Rings are perfectly OK --- the issue is the ' creative' blur between re-bolting and retro-bolting...

SteveMonks doesn't want carrots EVERYWHERE , just the occasional classic climb ( such as ' Gumtree ) with Rebolted ' museum ' / heritage value carrots...yaknowwha'Imean?...


nmonteith
19/08/2004
6:59:01 PM
thanks Hex!

mousey
19/08/2004
7:06:03 PM
A5 wrote;
>Maybe real kudos starts at Gd 30 and since its blerrie hard anyway, then there is no point in sandbagging because it reduces the 1st ascentionists credibility?

wat about zac? some of his routes are 30+ are are still claimed as sandbags. thought i guess thats really not relavent...just trying to say that the abovementioned thinggo only happens if the climber is really concerned about whether their ticklist says a 30 or a 33. i would think that the more established hardmen would tend not worry about this as much...

HEX
19/08/2004
7:38:28 PM
Aaaand - weeeee - saaaaay...
" Thank-yooou to Hexy !!! "
The songs we're singin' !
To the world
the joy s/he's bringin' !
Who could imagine --- I ask in all honestyyyyy---
what would life beeee ?!
Without a HEX to troll ---
what are weeeee ?!!!
Aaaaand - weeeeee - saaaaaay
" Thank yooou to Hexy !!! " ---for bringing this thread into being...

Thank you & good-night !!!

Boom ! Tish ! Crash ! Stella guitar-solo ! Fire-works ! Chickswithbigtitsrunnin'alloverthestage ! The crowd chanting :Hex-y !!! Hex-y !!! Hex-y !!!



And then I started thinking about Damien with those doe-eyed hamsters...

mousey
19/08/2004
7:57:16 PM
hex can i be your roadie? cuz i wanna that performance again!!
James
20/08/2004
6:05:54 PM
>Aaaaand - weeeeee - saaaaaay
>" Thank yooou to Hexy !!! " ---for bringing this thread into being...

don't flatter yourself & fall in the cauldren.... lots of the 'grasshoppers' think your thread sux bollocks hex

mousey
20/08/2004
9:01:21 PM
and some of them think that it has become a very valuable addition to the e-banter of the climbing community

HEX
23/08/2004
1:52:28 PM
On 19/08/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:

> At about the time he went off overseas, was he feeling bitter and twisted? Tall
>poppy syndrome get to him??

For all the different generations of grass-hoppers who ' ?? ' what really happened , Kim explains :

' ...I'm as motivated about climbing today (1997) as I ever was, but about ten years ago , I went through a crisis with climbing where I really just got sick of it. Working the Ring Route at Arapiles was a big part of it.I got to this point where I knew I couldn't climb it. Every time I'd leave the ground I knew I was just going to fail. I was just going up and rein-forcing the fact that I'd fall off. I got really good at falling off ! I could do the route ten times a day with one fall, and then ten times a day with a weight-belt and one fall, but I still couldn't do it with-out a fall.
I got to the last move and fell off three times the same day. I fell on the slab at the top, it was pissing with rain --- I got to the slab at the top and fell off in the rain !! [well, then ya shoulda come-back and nailed it on the next sunny day,grass-hopper !!! ]
Falling off the Ring Route was not stimulating --- it was very,very frustrating. So I just went O/S and climbed for about six months in the States and Europe. But really I was looking for a change. I was sponsored by Mammut at the time, so I asked them for a job and just moved to Europe and started working.Right now I'd love to get back into climbing, but ...'

Oh, oh ring ! ring !
Why don't you give it a caaaallllll !!!
Do-be-do-be-doooooo
Do-be-do-beeeeee
Ring ! Ring !
I'm sure this time, you will not faaalll !!! ; happiest time/climb of them all ...

Luv HEX, ABBA & The KC-sun-shine band !!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/08/2004
1:59:26 PM
Most enlightening; Sage of the glass-hoppers.
Thankyou for the historical perspective.

nmonteith
23/08/2004
3:45:54 PM
On 19/08/2004 nmonteith wrote:
> If you die-hard tradder/carrot bolt
>lovers want to MAKE SURE i always have enough carrots to use then please
>consider buying and donating me some. That is the only way you can gurantee
>it will work. My money can only stretch so far...

A week later and the SCV email account sits silent. It looks like another example of people complaining about ring bolts but not willing to put their money where their mouth is! If you love carrots then send us some.... if not then we will use whatever we have in our meagre supplies.

Neil!
jmgh
23/08/2004
5:43:41 PM
On 23/08/2004 nmonteith wrote:
>On 19/08/2004 nmonteith wrote:

>. It looks like another
>example of people complaining about ring bolts but not willing to put their
>money where their mouth is>

hi neil. i was merely wondering if carrots were still being placed,they've always struck me as an ideal compromise to the neccessity for blots on blank walls. as for the money, i'd love to help but i've an immigration lawyer to feed and those buggers eat 24/7. but i do have a drill, i put bolts in as part of my job andif you want practical help get in touch. anyone that knows me would piss themselves at the the irony should i be deported for bolting in national parks but i'm up for the youies [ there's a pin at Lust Buttress for starters] and the other melbourne crags. i'm behind what your doing but i've been debating these issues since elements of my generation wanted to bolt everything, so i'm not gonna stop now. and as for too old and too english you want me to tell steve monks and andy pollit that they're out of the cauldron,or will you do it.? lets get out,right the wrongs, debate the grey areas and have fun. maybe you and i should start at lodden.
jon

nmonteith
23/08/2004
7:16:56 PM
ok Jon. I will take you up on the offer when i get back from OS in early November!

mousey
23/08/2004
7:17:16 PM
>If you love carrots
what!??! are they out there??

> we will use whatever we have in our meagre supplies.
but erm...it is my understanding that rings are $4.50ish each, and carrots are about 80c each

nmonteith
23/08/2004
7:18:21 PM
But I have rings in my collection now - but no carrots. Thus the problem!
jmgh
23/08/2004
7:40:51 PM
On 23/08/2004 nmonteith wrote:
>ok Jon. I will take you up on the offer when i get back from OS in early
>November!

I'll lookforward it.have fun out there.

HEX
25/08/2004
11:48:54 AM
Ooooohhhhh Eeeeeeeye
like ta have a beer with KC
Oh I like ta have a beer with Kim !
We drink in moderation
Is he lost in the shadow of Punks in the Gym ?!
We drink at the Nati-National
where the atmosphere is great !
I like ta have a beer with Ki-iiim
Cos Kim's still King of The Wimm'...
OL-AY !!!

'...When too much Punks just isn't enough --- In the world of climbing, you can forget the Olympics...THE sporting event that put Australia on the map happened in 1985.And we'll never forget it. : The day Wolfgang Gullich climbed Punks in the Gym was the day Australia mattered to the world. Both Australia and the world have been re-living that moment ever since...' (?,1999)

poohbumweetit,Luv HEX...

--------------------------------------

HEX
27/08/2004
12:52:04 PM
Well, Oweng, and assorted grass-hoppers --- the first thing you need to understand about sport-climbs with lower-offs is that the establishment of far-too many of these abomb-in-ations, is that they actually constitute the act of PRO-ACTIVE retro-bolting --- yes , that's right !
You see, a ' sport-climb' isn't allowed to involve any cerebral activity that is related to such basic human functions such as physical-self-preservation or exploring the inter-face between organism and the INORGANIC...
So, what then tends to happen , is that more pro-active-retro-bolts are added initially, BEFORE they can be categorised as 'retro-bolts' --- savvy ? ; Further-more, the lower-off bolts are more-often-than-not , quite unnecessary additions to the immediate climbing environment , which are designed not really for ' convienience ' , but to add some sweet icing to the consumer-climb cake , thus deflecting attention away from the very-real devious agenda of dumbing/numbing repeat ascencionists from realising that yet another fantastic climbing-challenge has quietly been stolen from the broader-climbing-community by the insidious/out-rageous act of pro-active-retro-bolting --- CAN'T YOU SEE THAT ?!! --- what is the matter with you people ?!!!!

oweng
27/08/2004
2:02:01 PM
Uoh, im under the gun....

If im doing a modern sports climb, it seems to have a lot of big fat ubolts, or lots of big shiny fixed hangers. On the black dolerite rock down here in Tassie, and with the current close spacing that is the fashion of the day, these rows of bolts can look unbeleivably ugly and obtrusive. Given this, I cant see that adding a lower-off adds greatly to this visual impact. I also think that if your going to the effort of putting up a sport route, you might as well make it safe. You could argue that deliberatly ommiting a bolt on a run-out but easier section, is the pro-active chopping of a retro-bolted run-out. But then where would you be? Potentially stuck with a headache me thinks.

So Hex, im stuck in a conundrum. I hate the appearance of a wall bristling with sports routes, but I like climbing those routes. If im going to the 'dark side' and climbign sport routes, its all about selfishness. I want a quick McDonalds like fix (complete with lower-offs), that will be imediatly satisfying, but ultimatly (for me) less memorable than a more commiting 'trad' climb.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/08/2004
5:31:42 PM
Oh I like ta have a Scotch with Hexie-(Troll)
Yeah, I like ta have a Scotch with Hex
We drink in moderation... (mostly),
Together on the Forum its gonna be vexation,
Cos we like ta stir the cauldron!!...; (kinda rhymes with moderation) ...
Anyways we drink at the Buffalo Chalet
where the atmosphere is great !
Ohh I like ta have a Scotch with Hex -Troll.
Cos H-T's me mate.

(... an its GREAT; ... defiantly) !!!

HEX
27/08/2004
7:31:54 PM
A5--- 'Anyways' --- I, like this casual/functional conjunction--- nicely word-smithed,dude !
------------------------------------------------
On 27/08/2004 oweng wrote :

>You could argue that deliberatly ommiting
>a bolt on a run-out but easier section, is the pro-active chopping of a
>retro-bolted run-out.

Very interesting, but not clear --- please explain !

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There are 335 messages in this topic.

 

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