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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 125
Author
What's missing from the new Arapiles Guide?

Eduardo Slabofvic
22/09/2008
6:53:04 PM
On 22/09/2008 Wendy wrote:
>Eduardo, are you romanticising your memories of Europe compared to the
>banalities of your everyday existance?
>

simey asked to mention 1 crag that's as good as Araps....and although Araps is good there are heaps of
other places that are also good.

Just a stroll down memory lane. there was no polish 17 years ago, and we had the camp ground to
ourselves. There was a wood fired pizza/bar across the road from the camp ground.


Interestingly, no ones mentioned Pra Nang (until now that is). Again, 17 years ago there wasn't any
polish, and plenty of other activities for when your not climbing
richardo
22/09/2008
7:05:31 PM
On 22/09/2008 simey wrote:
>>Tasmania is a pretty good and varied crag from what I hear.
>
>I love the way states, countries and continents are suddenly being called
>crags.

You started it.
simey
22/09/2008
7:07:26 PM
Huh?!
Wendy
22/09/2008
7:15:36 PM

>Just a stroll down memory lane. there was no polish 17 years ago, and
>we had the camp ground to
>ourselves. There was a wood fired pizza/bar across the road from the
>camp ground.
>
>

You were so lucky! It is a nice spot, and the camping would have been great before it became too popular. The pizzeria is still there, it's bloody convenient after an evening at the crag, and dirt cheap. Pizza for 5 euro. Cold beer.

simey
22/09/2008
7:19:00 PM
At least Eduardo you are able to make decent suggestions.

I'm actually surprised no one has mentioned Stapylton. It caters for all abilities and has better bouldering and better quality climbs in the higher grades. It is unfortunate the campground is a bit too far away. I always thought if they had established the campground within easy walking distance of the cliffs, the area would have a full-time scene like Arapiles.

Arapiles still gets my nod though. The harder routes might not be as awesome as elsewhere, but I never get bored of the climbing there and I am guessing I will still be able to potter around into old age.


richardo
22/09/2008
7:54:10 PM
On 22/09/2008 simey wrote:
>At least Eduardo you are able to make decent suggestions.
>
>I'm actually surprised no one has mentioned Stapylton. It caters for all
>abilities and has better bouldering and better quality climbs in the higher
>grades. It is unfortunate the campground is a bit too far away. I always
>thought if they had established the campground within easy walking distance
>of the cliffs, the area would have a full-time scene like Arapiles.
>
>Arapiles still gets my nod though. The harder routes might not be as awesome
>as elsewhere, but I never get bored of the climbing there and I am guessing
>I will still be able to potter around into old age.

I accept your retraction.
spicelab
22/09/2008
7:59:35 PM
Never thought I'd say this, but I think Thompson's Point at Nowra comes a very distant second to Arapiles.

Trad/sport issues aside, no other single crag (apart from Araps) has climbs for all moods like TP. Slabs, faces, slight to severe overhangs, roofs, unsung classics. Very few climbs that aren't worth doing.

And to top it off, damn good sandstone.
J.C.
22/09/2008
8:04:45 PM
Except that it's 100% bolt clipping. Some of us would rather be getting our wiggly bits in!!
spicelab
22/09/2008
8:07:07 PM
That's why a friend of mine did Black Beddy on gear.

There's a story behind that one alright...
J.C.
22/09/2008
8:11:30 PM
Oh do tell, I love stories!
Sounds like something Ben would do?

Edit: Don't worry, wrong Rohan. Still, do tell the story! Did the thread hexes through the rings or something?

wallwombat
22/09/2008
8:21:21 PM
One of the great things about Arapiles is the fact that even when it is really busy, it is still possible to find secluded areas at which to climb. This is not possible at Thompson's Point.
Wendy
22/09/2008
8:46:32 PM
On 22/09/2008 spicelab wrote:
>Never thought I'd say this, but I think Thompson's Point at Nowra comes
>a very distant second to Arapiles.
>
>Trad/sport issues aside, no other single crag (apart from Araps) has climbs
>for all moods like TP. Slabs, faces, slight to severe overhangs, roofs,
>unsung classics. Very few climbs that aren't worth doing.
>
>And to top it off, damn good sandstone.

This is that irony thing right? Or should I be pulling myself up of the floor now?
simey
22/09/2008
8:54:38 PM
On 22/09/2008 richardo wrote:
>I accept your retraction.

What do you mean by retraction? Everything you have said has been stupid nonsense and I still believe Arapiles is the best crag with the best camping.

richardo
22/09/2008
8:57:05 PM
On 22/09/2008 Wendy wrote:

>
>This is that irony thing right? Or should I be pulling myself up of the
>floor now?

I think he is being serious. Scary.
spicelab
22/09/2008
9:00:01 PM
It was actually a mate of mine Anthony Savage, who, bold as he is, probably likes the romantic allure associated with dangerous routes a little more than actually doing them.

That is, until someone attempts to convey this message in so many words, in which case he'll drag himself through burning coals to prove you wrong. (Think Michael J Fox in Back to the Future - "Nobody calls me chicken!").

Case in point, around the time Hard Grit came out, someone, I can't remember who, suggested doing Black Beddy on gear. For anyone who doesn't know, this is a roughly 10m high 23 sandbag route, with an innocent enough beginning leading to a wicked crux in the last few moves involving harder moves than the cruxes of many grade 25's. As a sport route it probably sees proportionately more plummets onto the final bolt than any other route at Nowra.

What makes it a particularly interesting gear proposition, is that while you get bombproof cams in a horizontal break just above half height, all subsequent gear either goes in crucial handholds or footholds, making the climbing even harder if you choose to place it. In fact Anthony put a decent 3/4 cam in the most important foothold (also the last good handhold, and a black Alien in one of the key crimps, that in the best grit tradition, probably wouldn't be much more useful than a nail wrapped in cardboard.

Anyway, a very determined Anthony lurched and grunted his way towards glory, making plenty of unnerving trying-hard noises that are not very reassuring to hear when someone is on a dangerous climb. He hesitated for a second before committing to the notorious final move, managing to reach in semi control from the two small crimps to the final slopey kind-of jug thing next to the anchor. Then he wobbled, his hand slipped a little, then he grabbed the anchor!

The best thing about it from my perspective was that I had unfortunately committed to doing it in said manner if he did, sceptical of the authenticity of his outward determination to introduce a "Hard Sandstone" tradition in Australia.

To this day the argument still rages - did he actually do it or not?
spicelab
22/09/2008
9:09:35 PM
On 22/09/2008 Wendy wrote:
>
>This is that irony thing right? Or should I be pulling myself up of the
>floor now?

Believe it or not, this view was formed after climbing all over Europe and realising just how unremarkable 98% of their crags are.

While I totally agree that the place itself has never benn more accurately described than (by Chris Baxter I think) as 'an environmental black hole', I still think, considering the key attributeis of a SINGLE crag, Thompson's Point is the second most diverse crag I've climbed at in the world.
richardo
22/09/2008
10:00:08 PM
On 22/09/2008 simey wrote:
>On 22/09/2008 richardo wrote:
>>I accept your retraction.
>
>What do you mean by retraction? Everything you have said has been stupid
>nonsense and I still believe Arapiles is the best crag with the best camping.
>
>

And best wheelchair access for geriatrics? Keep the self selecting criterion coming. I still believe
Spain is the best crag with the best country.
prb
22/09/2008
10:44:38 PM
Arapiles is a fine crag and I for one feel fortunate it's only a morning's drive from Adelaide, but as for what's missing from the new Guide....hmmm....let's see....a helmet on the 14-year-old leading Christian Crack and Togrul Khan?

wallwombat
22/09/2008
10:50:59 PM
This 'what's the best crag' bullshit is bullshit.

It depends on what you are into. Bolt clippers like one place. wiggly placers like another and pad people prefer other places.

No one place is going to satisfy everyone but it's hard to deny that Arapiles has the most to offer, when it comes to Australian crags. That is why people travel from other countries to climb there. Because it's so bloody good.

Sport climbers, who can't place gear, will be a bit limited there but they suck anyway , so that doesn't matter a whole lot. And they have Blackheath, anyway. And climbing gyms. And Nowra.
simey
22/09/2008
11:16:21 PM
On 22/09/2008 prb wrote:
>... but as for what's missing from the new Guide....hmmm....let's see....a helmet on the 14-year-old leading Christian Crack and Togrul Khan?

I don't know whether a 14-year-old should be singled out for not wearing a helmet. There are plenty of adults in the guide who are not wearing helmets either.

 Page 3 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 125
There are 125 messages in this topic.

 

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