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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Author
Best tick after the longest drive

westie
1/09/2008
2:57:56 PM
Heya,

Maybe no takers on this one but it was discussed on one of the usual long drives to a crag. Melbourne climbers are of most interest.

What is the hardest climb you've done (incl. best effort in your own eyes) after :

a) doing something in the morning (or all day) i.e. work, sport etc...
then,

b) making a long drive to the crag.

Special mention goes to those who have downed a few cans and or taken a toke then burst a blood vessel on somethin tricky later that day.

ado_m
1/09/2008
4:54:54 PM
I climbed a super long VS 5a at Swanage at first light, still a bit pissed, after being king hit the night before for pissing on a nightclub dancefloor. The real hangover started hitting in about the 3rd pitch, when I realised I didn't really know that much about setting up anchors and that a set of second hand nuts and a few seagull slayers wasn't really enough gear for a big sea cliff. A proper learning experience.
duglash
1/09/2008
7:03:30 PM
Kev Pearl's drive from Qld to Victoria to do a boulder problem has to rate.
hero
1/09/2008
8:07:39 PM
I'm reminded of the Jon Bassindale perpetual trophy, (Currently held by Jon) for the quickest new route at Arapiles after arriving in the country. The record stands at 18 hours.

And then there is the oft quoted idea of doing Hard Rain, Blimp and Little Thor (or something) in a day.

Eduardo Slabofvic
1/09/2008
8:48:30 PM
On 1/09/2008 westie wrote:
>Special mention goes to those who have downed a few cans and or taken
>a toke then burst a blood vessel on somethin tricky later that day.

That describes every route I did between 1985 and 2001
hero
1/09/2008
9:05:41 PM
eduardo. it's 2008. You seem to missing a few years there

westie
2/09/2008
8:52:18 AM
On 1/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:

>That describes every route I did between 1985 and 2001

but not the (now notorious) climb with Glen?

westie
2/09/2008
8:53:15 AM
On 1/09/2008 ado_m wrote:
>a set of second hand nuts and a few seagull slayers wasn't really enough gear
>for a big sea cliff.

what's a seagull slayer?
widewetandslippery
2/09/2008
8:57:41 AM
I don't have the guide with me at work but in the Warrumbugles guide there is a story of 2 Melbourne climbers leaving Friday after work driving a beetle up therre doing Flight of the Pheonix and the first ascent of maybe? Rimfire? and making it for work on monday.

Someone with a guide nearby can fill in the vageries.

BigMike
2/09/2008
9:04:26 AM
On 2/09/2008 westie wrote:
>On 1/09/2008 ado_m wrote:
>>a set of second hand nuts and a few seagull slayers wasn't really enough
>gear
>>for a big sea cliff.
>
>what's a seagull slayer?

Hex 11?

master of drung
2/09/2008
9:33:16 AM
One day many years ago after a really big night out I awoke early on a sunday morning with the vague idea that I had arranged to go climbing that day. At the time I juggled a job involving early starts and some responsibility with a fearsome thirst for beer and late nights so my body used to go snap! at about 7:30 no matter what amount of abuse it had sustained the night before. My point being don't let this relatively mentally together beginning leave you with the illusion that my condition was anything other than seedy in the extreme. Anyhow my mate rang fairly early and rather than sitting around feeling terrible I allowed myself to be talked into a trip to the werribee gorge. The walk in was more about sweating and not vomiting than walking and we arrived at falcons lookout with me in at least tolerable shape. I don't actually remember but I have a feeling that the first climb of the day was SPQR, my partner at the time was a beginner leader so that would have suited him nicely and there was no way I would have taken the first lead. I assume that I belayed and seconded competantly because somehow a short time later I found myself at the bottom of Golgotha (18ish thrutcharama) telling my mate that I couldn't lead it because I only had one big piece of gear. Golgotha, for those not silly enough to have carried a rack into the werribee gorge, consists of not one but two off width/squeeze chimneyish cracks angled at 90 degrees to each other in a rather imposing corner and not much else, I would have been intimidated by it even if feeling fresh but would probably have had a crack (tee hee). Today I was happy to have an excuse. As luck would have it, the other pair out there that day, heard my plight regarding the lonely hex and immediatley lent me an enormous cam. Again my memory is a little hazy but I assume my resolve crumbled and from that point on my memory becomes a clear. In some ways the climbing isn't too hard, you just sort of wade in stuffing 1/2 of yourself in one side whilst wriggling the rest up the other but god it was hard work. I at least had a plan and not a very stylish one, I would place my hex securely down low which I accomplished then follow the cam up the climb feeling safe if not well. Eels. About 1/2 way up I abandoned this plan not for reasons of style but because the crack was getting slightly wider and the cam a little rattly. Eels. Not to far away I could now see a large and friendly looking chockstone, so I checked the cam and set off. Eels. With the chockstone just out of reach, fighting waves of nausea and both arms stretched deep into either crack, I would not have been surprised to find out that Golgotha is where Jesus died. Eels. Even more so, when I heard the cam fall out and hit the hex far below. I was now in a bit of trouble: a fall had quickly gone from a safe and almost comforting option, to unthinkable. Eels up inside you, finding an entrance where they can. I set my sights on the chockstone and with much difficulty and about 10 excrutiating long minutes, managed to lassoo it with a long sling. I was now safe again and the climb began to not look too bad. Eels. I was within a few metres of the top and the walls either side of the cracks suddenly began to look more featured. With some excitement I forsook the cracks that had simultaneously been my sanctuary and my dungeon and set out confidently for glory on massive jugs. This change of heart was fleeting in the extreme as my body refused to cooperate and sent me plummeting (the chockstone thankfully lived up to my expectations). Still unable to believe that I couldn't climb the veritable ladder between myself and the top I had another go with even less success. It was a bit like that dream where you need to run but can't move, I could see what to do and it was obviously easy but I just couldn't. I finally submitted to feelings of exhaustion beyond the scope of my previous existence and very! slowly aided my way to the top with blurring vision. So no redpoint, I couldn't even do all the moves free, so close and yet so far. I have always said I would go back but I no longer live in Melbourne and werribee gorge no longer looks even remotely desirable as a destination so I guess that is that.

evanbb
2/09/2008
9:42:13 AM
Eels?

Are you referring you that weird show on SBS from last week? I was already hallucinating with the flu and then this strange show about a bargain emporium came on. A green man with a lifesaver for an eye sang a song about eels, then pissed in the shop owners face for about 5 minutes.

Unsure how this related to the climb above, which sounds like a lot of fun.

wallwombat
2/09/2008
9:48:29 AM
On 2/09/2008 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I don't have the guide with me at work but in the Warrumbugles guide there
>is a story of 2 Melbourne climbers leaving Friday after work driving a
>beetle up therre doing Flight of the Pheonix and the first ascent of maybe?
>Rimfire? and making it for work on monday.
>
>Someone with a guide nearby can fill in the vageries.

I haven't got the guide but a surviving part of my brain seems to recall that being Keith Bell and someone else.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/09/2008
9:51:27 AM
Noddy Lockwood.


Post edit;
Heh, heh, heh. 6 secs too slow ww!

Post post edit;
>Post Edit: Damn you M9! You beat me to it.

It seems we (all 3 ~ ww&s, you and I), all have about the same remaining 'surviving part of [vague] brain'! My vagueness recalls that it was a first ascent of one of the major lines. I think Rimfire came after and was a multi-days-effort girdle traverse.

As far as thread topic goes I agree with ww&s and that feat gets my vote.

wallwombat
2/09/2008
9:51:33 AM
After a quick hit of caffeine, I think that someone else was Noddy Lockwood.

Thank you brain.

Post Edit: Damn you M9! You beat me to it.

Eduardo Slabofvic
2/09/2008
9:58:43 AM
On 1/09/2008 hero wrote:
>eduardo. it's 2008. You seem to missing a few years there

Well, now it describes everthing I do.
widewetandslippery
2/09/2008
10:00:35 AM
Has anyone driven from sydney or Qld to Moonarie in a single push walked straight in and done a route?

I feel shit getting out of the car even after short drives.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/09/2008
10:07:53 AM
>I feel shit getting out of the car even after short drives.

Your not a Territorian are you? Often big distances involved but don't they measure drive lengths by the number of cartons of (insert fav. brand here), consumed?
lacto
2/09/2008
10:08:04 AM
wasn't they only full ascent otf the kangeroos tail at uluru done stright after driving from melb (done really early in the morning) then a quick flee back to melbourne before being lynched

Dikko
2/09/2008
10:21:08 AM
On 2/09/2008 evanbb wrote:
>Eels?
>
>Are you referring you that weird show on SBS from last week? I was already
>hallucinating with the flu and then this strange show about a bargain emporium
>came on. A green man with a lifesaver for an eye sang a song about eels,
>then pissed in the shop owners face for about 5 minutes.
>
>Unsure how this related to the climb above, which sounds like a lot of
>fun.

Mighty Boosh. Eels up inside ya, find any entrance where they can!

I once picked up my mate straight after he finished working a shift at a pub in Adelaide at 2am, drove straight to Araps, got out the car at dawn and climbed all day in 35ish degrees heat. While I was fine, he had an aweful virus and was blowing fluro yellow snot out his nose all day. Very good tasting beers at the pub that evening. (for me anyway, my mate couldn't taste a thing from the virus!)

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
There are 27 messages in this topic.

 

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