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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 68
You're only allowed to do 1 more climb ... ever !

3:49:02 PM
Passport to Insanity is a very achievable dream if you aid part or all of the roof. And it is a great day out.
The first pitch is solid grade 20 and needs a couple of big pieces to protect it down low. The roof is amazing, too hard for me to free climb, but easy if you know how to aid. Caveat - you will definitely need some aiding know-how, including the second. From there to the top is typical Grampians trad route.
Getting off the pinnacle requires some pre-planning. If you don't know the area already then I suggest you do some exploring before you get on the route.

I'd love to be able to free climb Ozy but will probably have to settle for a mixture of free and aid in reality.
3:53:50 PM
On 12/02/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 12/02/2014 daave wrote:
>>Moonlight Buttress, Zion
>Next year? I have reliable first hand info that the crux pitches would
>only get 24 or 25 at Frog. The thing sounds really doable.

Lock it in Eddie!

8:07:14 PM

I gunna be able to climb for ever.

11:26:26 PM
i'd head back to the to the first trad route i fell on in the wattagans nsw.. it was my second day of trad leading, i though i was on a 14, but i got off route onto something much harder.. i jammed in any and every bit of gear i could and attempted to continue on..
that day sticks in my mind and even though it was a total choss fest, it had me hooked on trad climbing..

if i was to be a better climber than i am, i would go and send some of those bolted routes in castle hill nz

10:13:31 PM
Hm. These days most of my dream tick-list climbs are aid climbs, which require stubbornness more than Sharma-like strength!

Besides, now I've ticked off Witch at Macedon, what's left to do in terms of free climbs? (Wow- did I really just spray about getting up a grade 17? It's only February, but I may have just put myself down as a strong contender for the Chockstone Wanker of the Year Award...)

I think I'd settle for a free ascent of the Northwest face of Half Dome. Should be a pleasant romp at 5.12.

Mind you, someone way upstream nominated Mt Thor, Baffin island as their climb of choice, which would be pretty nice too.

I know in the opera it never pans out well for anyone who tries to bargain with the Devil, but maybe we could cut a deal where I get the Sharma-like strength for a final free climb and then promise never to step out of my aiders again (I mean, it's not like aiding is real climbing, after all...)? Key the Hungarian March from Berlioz' Damnation of Faust...

Big G
6:47:41 AM
Ben, surely the idea would be to climb something just out of reach anyway? If it was the only climb you were allowed to do it might be a bit underwhelming if you onsight it.

8:49:01 AM
If you were only allowed to do 1 more climb... and this was enforced by, say, a wife...

Then you'd have to pick a long multipitch that gets progressively harder as you go higher and higher...If you don't tick it, you get to keep doing it forever!

9:24:23 AM
How about:
Flight of the Phoenix at Bluff Mtn, Warrumbungles, on a calm autumn day. Topping out just as the sun sets, and walking back to the hut (what hut?) by moonlight.

(unlike last time when we topped out sometime after sunset, soaking wet)

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 68
There are 68 messages in this topic.


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