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Keep outa my crack - Trad routes as projects?


wallwombat

5-Feb-2008
11:41:12 AM

woo hoo!

100 posts in less than 24 hours. Quite a lively little topic, I dare say.

And I imagine Adam will be rather keen to get up his "project" ASAP.

Now this is much better than bitchin about Ukrainian cams.

ademmert

5-Feb-2008
11:48:20 AM

>
>And I imagine Adam will be rather keen to get up his "project" ASAP.

I've been thinking of sleeping under it
I will definitely be there every weekend possible

>Now this is much better than bitchin about Ukrainian cams.

definately


nmonteith

5-Feb-2008
11:50:21 AM

We have hired a security company to do regular patrols of the carpark and have installed CCTV.


wallwombat

5-Feb-2008
11:55:49 AM

On 5/02/2008 ademmert wrote:
>I've been thinking of sleeping under it
>I will definitely be there every weekend possible

Sorry mate. I really wasn't referring to your project when I started the thread. It was just the spark that got me thinking.

Good luck. I really hope you get up it soon.

ademmert

5-Feb-2008
11:59:40 AM

>Sorry mate. I really wasn't referring to your project when I started the
>thread. It was just the spark that got me thinking.

no prob!
Its got me really motivated even more than usual!

>Good luck. I really hope you get up it soon.

cheers


tmarsh

5-Feb-2008
3:50:46 PM

On 5/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>This actually reminds me of a route we eventually got Malcolm to do down
>near Red Rocks - called Grand Oral Disseminator (27). I can't remember
>if it was me or Tim Marsh who found it first - but it was both found it
>independently around the same time.

I found it first. it's mine MINE MINE!!! Sorry, I got carried away there.
wouldn't

>have considered it! Anyway - it took him a few days work but he eventually
>did it. Anyway - similar line, similar situation - I was happy to see it
>done. For me it would have taken much longer. Not sure what the point of
>that little story was... this route still stands un-repeated. One of the
>finest natural lines in the Grampians in my opinion.

I rapped it a couple of times and realised that it was a lot wider than I was comfortable with at the top and the wall under the crack was glassy smooth. I was climbing less and less at the time and knew that it was unrealistic to think I was even in with a shot at doing it. Neil emailed me photos of Malcolm on it and I was happy to think that someone was going to do it in a good style with a minimum of bolts.

This whole debate about projects and stealing projects has to be kept in perspective by both sides. Ultimately, we should be encouraging people to put the work into putting up great routes. It's not helpful to have people pi55ing and moaning about people nicking their projects when they haven't been on the route for 5 years and are 10 kilos fatter than last time they clipped the third last bolt and lowered off. You should know when to move on and let someone else have a go. Equally, having no respect for projects - trad or otherwise - leads to the whole secret crag syndrome, where people will keep any new routing secret in the hope that they will pick all the plums before word leaks out. A little bit of common sense keeps this all in check.


Chuck Norris

5-Feb-2008
8:46:09 PM

On 5/02/2008 tmarsh wrote:
> A little bit of common sense keeps this all in check.

No room for common sense here...otherwise we'd all be common


muki

5-Feb-2008
9:17:22 PM

On 5/02/2008 tmarsh wrote:
>Equally, having no respect for projects - trad or otherwise - leads to the whole secret crag syndrome,
>where people will keep any new routing secret in the hope that they will
>pick all the plums before word leaks out.

Neil would never do that!


Chuck Norris

5-Feb-2008
10:59:51 PM

I can't seem to find the post to reply to but I recall someone asking in this thread about the relative
politeness of 80's new routing....an example to say it probably ain't much different to now is scratched
at the base of the climb Endless Love (a Chris Shepard route) at moonarie. It must be *very* faded by
now but you should be able to make out something along the lines of "If you f*3kning climb this
@$$%$ and @#%^" etc etc.

I was told the history behind this was Chris for some reason or another had to return to adelaide before
completing the climb...whilst kimbo et al were up there at full form. The warning must have had some
effect cos Kim heeded the warning and didn't climb it. But the irony is that despite endless love being
the "central" (though that's debatable) Kim ended up doing another line Ape and Away on the same wall,
which despite
being "less central" is by far and away the superior climb of the two.

prb

6-Feb-2008
10:19:40 AM

Just sidetracking for a moment, I wrote a piece for the SA Climbing Club newsletter a couple of years ago on the climbs that made the grade in SA (stugang appears twice). For grade 26, I wrote:

"Full Torque was climbed sometime in 1982, not sure when, while Ape and Away (also Carrigan) was climbed in May of that year. They could well have been ticked on the same trip. The New Routes book in Paddy's was no help and BOLFAs from that time are probably lining old bird cages. John Marshall thinks FT came first."

I gave the honour to Full Torque. Can anyone confirm that's correct? I don't think Ape gets climbed very often and I don't think FT gets climbed at all ( a sizable roof up in the clouds).


tmarsh

6-Feb-2008
11:59:55 AM

Chris Shep getting grabby about projects. That sounds out of character.

On a side note, Chris once told me that Endless Love was his favourite ever new route. Given the number he did at Araps and their quality, that's a big call.


Macciza

6-Feb-2008
10:18:26 PM

Hi All - I have a new aid/trad project that I would like the courtesy of a bit of time to try it . . . .
I believe the inspiration / vision to climb it as well as the time taken preparing the route by aid-soloing
it to clean the dust, sand and loose/dangerous rock off it should allow me that courtesy for doing it.

It is Beezelbub's Cauldron, - near Katoomba - it is the only route so far on the right near the bottom,
Starts off the end of ledge and goes up steep corner crack to headwall and probable belay ledge
I am aiding it first - once that is done free attempts will follow and it will be opened as a project

There are a few other lines nearby but the ethic is going to be modern tRad so no rings or many bolts.
I will get some pictures next time and put details on ACA when things are underway

Thanks in advance my rope brethren,
Off Belay . . .


bluey

25-Feb-2008
9:59:39 PM

On 5/02/2008 ademmert wrote:
>>Sorry mate. I really wasn't referring to your project when I started the
>>thread. It was just the spark that got me thinking.
>
>no prob!
>Its got me really motivated even more than usual!
>
>>Good luck. I really hope you get up it soon.
>
Have been out of the loop for a while - did you send the project Ads??


nmonteith

25-Feb-2008
10:31:29 PM

On 25/02/2008 bluey wrote:
>Have been out of the loop for a while - did you send the project Ads??

He is up there all this week! No word yet...

ademmert

26-Feb-2008
3:51:47 PM

On 25/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>On 25/02/2008 bluey wrote:
>>Have been out of the loop for a while - did you send the project Ads??
>
>He is up there all this week! No word yet...

going for the red point again tomorrow
hopefully i have enough skin grone back today


nmonteith

27-Feb-2008
2:58:59 PM

TICK! The Olive Cave crack project has been redpointed by Adam 5 minutes ago. Grade 27? Name to come later...

Fish Boy

27-Feb-2008
3:41:00 PM

Neil, do you do much live reporting on sends?

Congrats...


nmonteith

27-Feb-2008
4:14:18 PM

I just read about it on SMS in the safety and comfort of my own home.


evanbb

27-Feb-2008
4:39:29 PM

Maybe Chockstone should employ a full time roving reporter? Following the good seasons for the hard sends.


nmonteith

27-Feb-2008
5:53:54 PM

Update!

It's called Malice and Malcolm Matheson just flashed it for the 2nd ascent.

There are 157 messages in this topic.