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20th anniversary of Serpentine February 23/24 Feb

Nottobetaken

7-Feb-2008
6:06:22 PM

Lawry and Mick went for a scout out on your route Dave and apparently retreated dribbling something about being 'scared sh*tless' - or something like that. That doesn't bide well for aspiring repeat ascentionists! Nevertheless, perhaps Crux mag should switch prize monies. A new 32 will go up in no time compared to a 24 where even the belays might rip!


mousey

7-Feb-2008
6:26:27 PM

hahahaha nice one neilo, this will be interesting! ill be trying to get down but going through a very very busy phase right now so not sure if ill get a chance. get lots of photos for me!


Macciza

7-Feb-2008
6:56:28 PM

>On 7/02/2008 phil_nev wrote:
>>hahahaha... $80 wouldn't even come close to paying for your funeral after
>>dying above spurt wall.

Yeah - I though it was a little on the light side too . . . Any chance of making it an even $100 . . .?

>On 7/02/2008 Dave J wrote:
>No one has ever hurt themselves on the choss above spurt wall. Its safer
>than flying qantas.

And that's certainly reassuring to know as well - Does Shai Halud get much traffic? Any others?
>


Macciza

7-Feb-2008
7:05:15 PM

I'm also wondering whether a little dry-tooling might be allowed under the 'free' umbrella . . .
No particular reason just purely hypothetical, er, a friend wants know, also any pictures . .

kieranl

7-Feb-2008
7:31:07 PM

On 7/02/2008 Dave J wrote:
>No one has ever hurt themselves on the choss above spurt wall. Its safer
>than flying qantas.
>
And the sample size is... 2
It's a long time since I did stats but I don't think that would pass muster in any peer-reviewed journal (except for Rock or Crux)

MichaelOR

7-Feb-2008
9:33:48 PM

Is that the 2 climbers on the FA, or has there been a second ascent?
When I had a look from the ground, I couldn't work out where it went. But then, that was probably just part of the sick feeling that was taking over me!


westie

8-Feb-2008
8:50:08 AM

On 7/02/2008 Dave J wrote:

>No one has ever hurt themselves on the choss above spurt wall

that's 'cos you're the only one climbing it :)


Macciza

8-Feb-2008
9:20:46 AM

On 8/02/2008 westie wrote:
>On 7/02/2008 Dave J wrote:
>>No one has ever hurt themselves on the choss above spurt wall
>
>that's 'cos you're the only one climbing it :)

Oh, well I guess that makes it a bit different then . . .
I thought it was just that the rock was so soft that it didn't really hurt hitting you . . .

Maybe I should put a $20 on repeating Shai Halud and a $50 for a new clean-aid line . . .
Damn I was actually wanting to be at Frenchmans Cap for that time . . . decisions, decisions . . .


nmonteith

8-Feb-2008
9:20:57 AM

On 7/02/2008 Macciza wrote:
>I'm also wondering whether a little dry-tooling might be allowed under
>the 'free' umbrella . . .
>No particular reason just purely hypothetical, er, a friend wants know,

Only if its leash-less drytooling.

>also any pictures . .

Good luck!


nmonteith

8-Feb-2008
9:32:06 AM

P.S. - Shai Hulud goes straight up the middle of this photo, just left of the really big black streak on the 'good rock'.


Macciza

8-Feb-2008
9:41:13 AM

On 8/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>On 7/02/2008 Macciza wrote:
>>I'm also wondering whether a little dry-tooling might be allowed under
>>the 'free' umbrella . . .
>>No particular reason just purely hypothetical, er, a friend wants know,
>
>Only if its leash-less drytooling.

Cool ! I mean my friend says Cool !

>>also any pictures . .

Oh I meant of the chossy stuff . . .

>Good luck!

Thanks , , I mean, I'll pass it on . . .


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Feb-2008
9:46:46 AM

On 8/02/2008 Macciza wrote:
>Maybe I should put a $20 on repeating Shai Halud and a $50 for a new clean-aid
>line . . .
>Damn I was actually wanting to be at Frenchmans Cap for that time . .
>. decisions, decisions . . .

The deinstructions on the poster advertising it say;
$80 for the first team to climb a ground-up bolt free new free route through the choss above Spurt Wall.

Choose whichever one is the sweetest elixir mate, besides I don't think the comp can guarantee your ideal dark and rainy climbing conditions!
;-)


Macciza

8-Feb-2008
10:37:40 AM

On 8/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>P.S. - Shai Hulud goes straight up the middle of this photo, just left
>of the really big black streak on the 'good rock'.

Could you email me a hi-res shot please? That's the long streak, not the short one?
Also I lose track on that left hand chalk-line at the second rooflet - any ideas . . .
And anyway that grey stuff above the wall doesn't look too bad? What's the problem? Is it loose?


nmonteith

8-Feb-2008
10:48:45 AM

A better shot with Sahi Hulud marked in blue.

The rock quality is awesome Macca. I don't know why anyone is complaining.


alrob

8-Feb-2008
11:03:54 AM

On 8/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>The rock quality is awesome Macca. I don't know why anyone is complaining.

don't you mean sand quality? half the route would make a top notch sand pit for the kiddies. Best sand in all of Western Victoria!


Macciza

8-Feb-2008
11:08:56 AM

On 8/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>A better shot with Sahi Hulud marked in blue.
>
>The rock quality is awesome Macca. I don't know why anyone is complaining.

Thanks for that - Thats what I thought . . .

And does the left hand route go up the small black streak and around or through the roof?
Or dies it head right at that second rooflet?

The obvious lefthand finish to SH through the roofs looks interesting - Overhangs? How steep?
Thanks for the info


nmonteith

8-Feb-2008
11:27:36 AM

The far left end of the second photo is the route Kaa (24), which goes through some smaller roofs.. Has a few bolts. Done by Steve Monks in the 90s. Have a look at the supertopo poster i put into CRUX 2 for an overview of what has and hasn't been done!

The lefthand finish would be pretty steep - i'd say it kicks back at least 2m.

Dave J

8-Feb-2008
3:08:57 PM

On 8/02/2008 Macciza wrote:

>And does the left hand route go up the small black streak and around or
>through the roof?
>Or dies it head right at that second rooflet?
>
>The obvious lefthand finish to SH through the roofs looks interesting
>- Overhangs? How steep?
>Thanks for the info

I think the route should be entirely independant (with a new pitch up through the white rock).

We're talking about a 300 meter stretch of amost unclimbed cliff here. I think its a little early to be
looking at variant finishes.

Im not sure if dry tooling would realy be much easier...the holds are all pretty big, they're just not very
well attached to the cliff.

Perhaps an aid climb could be awarded the prize in the absence of a free route but with the
understanding that the prize would be forwarded on if the route ever went free??? Just an idea.

Dave J

8-Feb-2008
3:19:15 PM

On 8/02/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>A better shot with Sahi Hulud marked in blue.

neil ...I dont think that line is quite right...where you've got it dog legging left at the top of the white
sandy rock I think it dog-legs right (undernether the big black streak) then there's a belay and then it
goes pretty much as per your line. I think that right hand dogleg is the crux of the route but you could
still claim an ascent if you went left there (even though if that bit of rock were 200 meters to the left
there would be 5 routes on it).

The rock on the second pitch is pretty good, but there is no gear on the pitch and the top pitch is
really pleasant 22 with good gear.


westie

8-Feb-2008
4:17:03 PM

On 8/02/2008 Dave J wrote:

> The rock on the second pitch is pretty good ... and the top pitch is
>really pleasant 22 with good gear.

Hey Dave,

I think there's just as much interest in seeing an ascent of this as there is for HB on Serpentine. I've got my popcorn, whaddayareckon?

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