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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Guess The Route

Capt_mulch
4-Jan-2008
10:35:05 AM
Macca climbed the chimney, then hand jammed along the left crack under the roof (he and Zac had some serious discussion for quite a while whether it was the left or right crack), then followed the crack out. Bareback has ring bolts. Nothing but trad up this route.

Helmet story: I was standing there with my helmet on and Macca kept on yelling 'rock!' - though they were only small, then he dropped a pile of bongs (no, not that type, worst of luck) from where he is in the photo and they landed a couple of metres from where I was standing. I didn't feel dumb about having my helmet on from then on.

cruze
4-Jan-2008
11:21:14 AM
So was Adski right?

Capt_mulch
4-Jan-2008
11:26:15 AM
Close, but no cigar!

Where's Macciza when you need him??

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
11:31:43 AM
Excalibur 18M2

mousey
4-Jan-2008
11:53:43 AM
not that old thing below engineers is it??

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
12:04:22 PM
On 4/01/2008 mousey wrote:
>not that old thing below engineers is it??

No, it's Excalibur 18M2.

Capt_mulch
4-Jan-2008
12:04:41 PM
Not sure about engineers. Hint. Huge offwidth corner chimney, (this is where I get cryptic): to find out, you might ring a bell.

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
12:22:35 PM
Ah, you must think it is Lucifer's Hammer but I think it's Excalibur. They share the same start.

I climbed Excalibur in 1992 and that's what it looked like.

Here's the description for Excalibur from the old, old, old guide.

Pitch 1 : Climb up to the base of chimney. Up chimney then move out over wedged block and up to ledge 3m above (looks very extreme)........

Heres the one for Lucifer's Hammer

Start: As for Excalibur

Pitch 1: Climb cracks to base of chimney, traverse right past 2 bolts then move up through obvious weakness (2 bolts) and gain a small pedestal stance on the left. Bolt belay.

By the way I almost crapped myself on that thing. Me and my then partner were teaching ourselves aid climbing. I try to forget it now.

Capt_mulch
4-Jan-2008
12:27:04 PM
Did you go up (right in) the chimney, then follow the crack on the left (under the roof), then out? From the looks of it, I think Macciza was having a wild time too.

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
12:41:01 PM
Yes, the crack on the left looked cleaner at the time. I think the one on the right had a fair bit of greenery in it back then.

I find that now that most (current) guides mainly rely on topos rather than descriptions, it is easy to get a lot of these obscure, old school climbs mixed up with each other. Also, these old school climbs tend to be less thoroughly researched by guide book authors than modern sport climbs.

adski
4-Jan-2008
12:49:45 PM
.. which is a tragedy on par with the new communications minister proposing internet filters that cut civil liberties and internet speeds in half.

Apathy leads to butt f---ing

Macciza
4-Jan-2008
1:09:18 PM
Sorry .. here I am . . . what was the question?

Capt_mulch
4-Jan-2008
1:10:08 PM
Name that climb Macca! (go back one page).

Macciza
4-Jan-2008
1:14:59 PM
Oh Oh I know this one it's, it's ummm . . .. god it looks familar . . . . Great shot by the way . . .
I'll just need to check my log-book . . . . rings a bell . . .



Macciza
4-Jan-2008
1:31:25 PM
Now I remember . . Thrustblock, 23 at Porters Pass, awesome climbing, great fun, 3 stars . . .

Heres mine

width="500"height="375"/>

There are 3 routes in this photo . . . extra points for naming them all . . . ooops...

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
1:52:34 PM
Well, I guess I'm wrong then but when I climbed we climbed it we thought it was Excalibur as it matches the description of Excalibur more than Thrustblock.

What pitch of Thrustblock is it?

That is a photo of Cyclops at Dog Face.

Macciza
4-Jan-2008
2:07:05 PM
Pitch 1 ... At lip of roof feeling flashpumped . Excalibre is other side of buttress away from pass . Its
wedged block is down low I think - here it's high in top chimney. I've put it on the ACA routes guide
Kinda liked the similarity of shot I suppose . . a bit of a giveaway . . . but what are the other two ?

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
2:14:57 PM
Well it was a long time ago and we were stumbling around Porters with home made etriers, stoned off our noggins, so I'm not suprised the memory has faded a bit. I'd like to go back and climb them again.

The other 2 routes are Leviathan and Gargantuan.

Macciza
4-Jan-2008
2:18:45 PM
Done any of them or feel like trying any of them . . I need to retrieve the wire I lowered off before the cliff
starts eating it . . . I giess it's your turn now . .

wallwombat
4-Jan-2008
2:35:51 PM
I'd like to give Ogre a go. Have always wanted to do a route with a pendulum.

Now I'll see what I can come up with.

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There are 1157 messages in this topic.

 

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