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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
THE OFFICIAL GUTTED!!! THREAD
mikl law
27-Jul-2009
5:12:15 PM
On 27/07/2009 WM wrote:
>anybody need a rope to make a doormat with?
I'm teaching myself how to weave one now, hang onto it and I'll make you a nice mat

D.Lodge
27-Jul-2009
7:08:43 PM
Damm cracked a rib snowboarding so no training for me for my mid august Nowra trip

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28-Jul-2009
11:56:59 AM
On 27/07/2009 WM wrote:
>gutted that I re-tied all my cam slings, took delivery of shiny new .5
>and .75 link cams and 3 more micro cams, stashed them carefully in my car
>with my 2nd newest rope ... then an unwitting "helper" put the whole lot
>on a petrol/lubricant/oil/chemical stained garage floor. Bye-bye hundreds
>of bucks worth of gear ...

Bugga, though the cams should be able to be reslung (again)...

How have you found the new smaller size link cams in useage? ~ maybe this is not the right thread if you care to reply ~> perhaps a review post over here in Gear Lust section?

wallwombat
28-Jul-2009
2:06:45 PM
On 27/07/2009 WM wrote:
>gutted that I re-tied all my cam slings, took delivery of shiny new .5
>and .75 link cams and 3 more micro cams, stashed them carefully in my car
>with my 2nd newest rope ... then an unwitting "helper" put the whole lot
>on a petrol/lubricant/oil/chemical stained garage floor. Bye-bye hundreds
>of bucks worth of gear ...


How long was all the gear on the garage floor for?

gordoste
28-Jul-2009
4:16:27 PM
wallwombat wants to buy it

wallwombat
28-Jul-2009
4:49:06 PM
On 28/07/2009 gordoste wrote:
>wallwombat wants to buy it

No I don't.

I was just wondering if the gear was put down briefly on the garage floor or left sitting there for a while.

If it was just put down briefly, I'd chuck everything in the bath and give it a good wash and see how it all goes, rather than deciding it was all cactus and righting it off.

Sarah Gara
30-Jul-2009
8:54:49 AM
It'll be fine give it a bath x

evanbb
30-Jul-2009
12:51:16 PM
Sorry for the cross sport reference, but I'm pluggin on.

Gutted the selectors have dropped Hughes for Watson, the worlds Largest Leggo Man (he breaks to pieces every time you take him out to play). WTF are the selectors thinking!

wallwombat
30-Jul-2009
1:35:37 PM
On 30/07/2009 evanbb wrote:
>. WTF are the selectors thinking!

I think the selectors are having a panic.

Their two big weapons- Hughes and Johnson -aren't playing well and Brett Lee is unfit.

I agree that they should stick with Hughes but I think Clark should get the nod against Johnson.

Anyway, I'm off to the hospital to get my ankles/feet checked out. I will be GUTTED if they are broken/fractured.

On the bright side, as Mikl said to be after it happened, if there is a fracture, I'll be using my fingerboard a lot and will be really strong by the time I have healed.

: o

pmonks
31-Jul-2009
3:49:44 AM
On 30/07/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>It'll be fine give it a bath x

I think you're over-simplifying the effects of various chemicals on nylon...

Sarah Gara
31-Jul-2009
9:03:53 AM
On 31/07/2009 pmonks wrote:
>On 30/07/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>>It'll be fine give it a bath x
>
>I think you're over-simplifying the effects of various chemicals on nylon...

you are possibly quite right.

if you are that worried give me the rope (hehe) replace the slings and wash the metal... you can't throw so much new stuff away just cos it was placed on a floor for a min that may or may not have remnents of oil or petrol oil or bleach on it.

This is obviously different if it was a pool of oil that it was placed in.

>Some time ago WM wrote:
>petrol/lubricant/oil/chemical stained garage floor

How stained? When was the stain from?

and how long was it on the floor?

Does anyone remember this discussion a while ago -(may have been on UK climbing) about someone testing a rope strength after it had been bathed in cat pee overnight -it was only reduce by like 6% or something...

All i'm saying is I wouldn't be so quick to write it all off... certainly the cams are worth a wash? x



ajfclark
31-Jul-2009
10:30:25 AM
On 31/07/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>Does anyone remember this discussion a while ago -(may have been on UK climbing) about someone testing a rope strength after it had been bathed in cat pee overnight -it was only reduce by like 6% or something...

Unfortunately Black Diamond has just redone their website and the old QC lab stuff isn't all migrated to the new site. Here's a copy of the urine rope tests from Google's cache: link">https://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php+site:bdel.com+urine&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au#121806">link

An interesting snippet:
I contacted Pit Schubert who is an expert in climbing gear accidents and testing and asked if he had done any tests regarding urine and ropes. His response is below:

“I made test with ropes and human urine—I put rope samples in a pot with urine over night and sent them to the university of Stuttgart for testing according to EN 892—the result: reduction of the number of falls 30%—after this I had the idea, that a rope in a pot of urine over night is not realistic—so I put only a lot of urine drops on the rope samples, but morning urine (because morning urine is stronger than day urine)—the result: reduction of the number of falls 13%.
Given that a relatively weakly acidic solution like urine can have a detrimental effect on a rope I'd hate to see what something like battery acid would do.

Sarah Gara
31-Jul-2009
12:25:43 PM
On 31/07/2009 ajfclark wrote:
Given that a relatively weakly
>acidic solution like urine can have a detrimental effect on a rope I'd
>hate to see what something like battery acid would do.

Ok I'll concede the rope and the slings...

Do you still recommend chucking the cams? x

ajfclark
31-Jul-2009
12:33:19 PM
Chucking them my way, yes... ;-)

Sarah Gara
31-Jul-2009
12:34:29 PM
I'll fight you for them! x
Paz
31-Jul-2009
7:04:34 PM
Gutted I can't afford to fly to Delhi to curse all Three Mobile customer care staff...most unhelpful people i have ever had the unfortunate experience of spending 45 minutes, on three occassions, fighting with....

Revelstoke powder dreams are fading....

FUK YOU THREE MOBILE
Olbert
31-Jul-2009
8:12:03 PM
On 31/07/2009 Paz wrote:
>Gutted I can't afford to fly to Delhi to curse all Three Mobile customer
>care staff...most unhelpful people i have ever had the unfortunate experience
>of spending 45 minutes, on three occassions, fighting with....
>
>Revelstoke powder dreams are fading....
>
>FUK YOU THREE MOBILE
Yes yes yes! I hate three mobile too! They f---ed me up by making phones 'free' that had a warranty of 1 year and contract of 2 years! Then after 1 and a bit years the phone f---s up im left with no phone and paying money for a contract that doesnt do anything!
Paz
31-Jul-2009
9:00:35 PM
exact same thing happened to me....but added to a useless phone they overcharged me round 200 bucks and now say they'll only refund me credit to future bills.....corporate stealing, told them to shove my future business with them up their
bl@ke
3-Aug-2009
10:07:01 AM
Gutted that i didnt get to do any climbing while i was in tassie for a school camp. It was torture we went to Cradle mt, mt wellington, and cataract gorge plus all the other rocks around the place. :(

ajfclark
3-Aug-2009
10:12:13 AM
You could have pushed another student down a cliff and then you would have conveniently had all the gear to effect a rescue.... You get to do some climbing and be a hero. Win-win... except for the crash dummy I guess... Maybe you should use a manikin rather than a student?

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There are 353 messages in this topic.

 

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