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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
THE OFFICIAL GUTTED!!! THREAD
psd
17/12/2007
6:29:03 PM
On 17/12/2007 evanbb wrote:
>I'm gutted to realise, yet again, that I can't climb slabs. What's going
>on? I've cruised 20s yet was sketchy and shiiting myself on a well bolted
>18. Why? Am I too fat? Too stupid? Genetically deficient? In future I'm
>going to stick to my strengths. Personal growth is for the weak.

Maybe your shoes are crap? Best to blame something external first of all I think ... you can fall back on personal inadequacies as a last resort ... and anyway I think being fat is a benefit on slabs - makes the shoes stick better.

Where were you climbing?

Chuck Norris
17/12/2007
6:31:45 PM
On 17/12/2007 evanbb wrote:
>I'm gutted to realise, yet again, that I can't climb slabs. Am I too fat?

No. fat people get better friction.

(post edit...you beat me to it psd....)



psd
17/12/2007
6:34:23 PM
On 17/12/2007 stugang wrote:

>No. fat people get better friction. (post edit...you beat me to it psd....)



... it's a topic close to my heart ;-) (slightly lower actually, more the midriff)

Macciza
17/12/2007
7:02:32 PM
Was that from when I saw you the other day? We can meet up there again sometimes and maybe give
you some tips and pointers. Sounds like mental approach issues - fixing that is not too hard . .

Chuck Norris
17/12/2007
7:43:05 PM
On 17/12/2007 Macciza wrote:
>Sounds like mental approach issues - fixing
>that is not too hard . .

totally agree that slabs are all about mental approach....Though i am far from a slab master, trusting
your feet and keeping upward momentum are two of the big ones.

Anyway, what I really wanted to ask is....Has anyone experienced/seen a really big slab fall? Luckily I
never have, but recall hearing the advice that if you start slipping you needed to...."grab the rope, turn
around to face downwards and start running...." !!!!!!!

I saw some guy take a 20m slab fall where they managed to run backwards for 10m before having a
further 10m of bouncing down the slab getting wrapped like a cocoon in the rest of the rope. And the
reason I ask the above Q is that I can't help but think it would take extraordinary balls (sorry girls but
you get what I mean) to grab the rope and run towards the ground, no matter how much sense it
makes to do so....

mousey
17/12/2007
8:03:43 PM
havent done it on a rope but ive done it a few times (turn around and run then roll down the hill) coming off of highball slabs in castle hill... actually works really well! one that sticks out in my mind is coming off the last move of 'nasal slip' without a mat or spotter, theres not much else you CAN do except try & stay on your feet

evanbb
17/12/2007
9:20:35 PM
On 17/12/2007 Macciza wrote:
>Was that from when I saw you the other day? We can meet up there again
>sometimes and maybe give
>you some tips and pointers. Sounds like mental approach issues - fixing
>that is not too hard . .

Yes it was me, at Shipley Saturday arvo. It's almost certainly my brain that's at fault. It almost always is. I'll definitely head back up there to redeem myself pretty soon, so I'll drop you a line when I do.
honeyhead
17/12/2007
10:15:23 PM
On 17/12/2007 evanbb wrote:
>On 17/12/2007 Macciza wrote:
>>Was that from when I saw you the other day? We can meet up there again
>>sometimes and maybe give
>>you some tips and pointers. Sounds like mental approach issues - fixing
>>that is not too hard . .
>
>Yes it was me, at Shipley Saturday arvo. It's almost certainly my brain
>that's at fault. It almost always is. I'll definitely head back up there
>to redeem myself pretty soon, so I'll drop you a line when I do.
>

Don't forget Evan that the weather conditions were quite humid by saturday arvo which also contributes to bad friction and general spoogeyness.

mousey
17/12/2007
10:21:17 PM
yeh stuff at shipley can be cruisy and locked in with good conditions, or slimey desperate & insecure with even a bit of humidity!

gordoste
17/12/2007
11:41:22 PM
don't forget you need to apply appropriate technique... e.g. don't try to edge on smears like i was doing the other day... it makes things really hard
james
18/12/2007
4:27:46 AM
>Anyway, what I really wanted to ask is....Has anyone experienced/seen
>a really big slab fall? Luckily I
>never have, but recall hearing the advice that if you start slipping you
>needed to...."grab the rope, turn
>around to face downwards and start running...." !!!!!!!

I've taken a couple 4-ish metre falls at Buffalo & it was fine, no scraping down the rock at all. It was quite the revelation, falling on slabs can be ok!

I've heard about someone falling off the dyke mantle on pitch 1 of the Dreaming (@ Buffalo) - apparently they were ok also (!!!).
For those who don't know it, the last gear is at the bend in the rope (PS: Mark didn't fall off in this pic).




hero
18/12/2007
9:46:24 AM
Try and get your hands on an old Mountain article on a route called the Hall of Mirrors (Misty Beethoven?) in Yosemite. It fully explains the technique for taking fifty metre 'screamers' on slabs.

It is interesting to know that when Joe Friend freed the slab traverse of Establishment he did it by facing out and sitting on his heels to get more friction. Still freaks me out.
qman
18/12/2007
9:56:43 AM
i reacon the go is getting a pair of those Cactuc Dreadnoughts. They are thick canvas pants which i am sure would offer some protection on a slab slide.

PS, i love those photos of the Dreaming. looks to be the ultimate in slab padding.
widewetandslippery
18/12/2007
10:06:48 AM
I'm gutted hair of the dog (soon) may cause me to hurl. I hate it when beer has bones in it.

Capt_mulch
18/12/2007
10:11:20 AM
mmmmm, beer for breakfast. Come on Christmas!! I'm gutted that I'm not having beer for breakfast right now. Friday too far away...
widewetandslippery
18/12/2007
10:49:41 AM
I like to think of it as an early lunch. Its a matter of commitment.
Duncan
2/04/2008
3:32:29 AM
Gutted that I just checked out the climbing wall in Cambridge (after a week in Font), and it's RUBBISH.

JimboV10
2/04/2008
9:54:11 AM
Gutted that I had 11 Petzl Spirit draws stolen in Norwa... :(

The bouldering gods smiting me for going trad climbing at Pt Perp...

wallwombat
2/04/2008
5:25:24 PM
On 17/12/2007 Capt_mulch wrote:
>Gutted that I dropped my small red friend on Determinant at Booroomba on
>the weekend. I don't remember dropping it or hearing it fall. At least
>it was an old one. It wanted to be free. There's booty at Booroomba!!

Widewetandslippery and I where at Booroomba on the weekend. Didn't you see the my blue van, Warren Harding, in the car park. We didn't see the go-go Getz. We would have been easy to spot on Sunday. We were the ones drinking beer in the car park, psyching up for Hurricane Cracks. We were going to climb Outer Limits but felt it might eat into our drinking time.

And to be more on topic, I'm gutted I didn't score your red Camalot.

So close but so far away.
qman
7/04/2008
7:15:54 AM
I am gutted that i didnt get to climb on the weekend,

Dispite having a shiney new helmet for my Bday inspised by a recent close call.
BD, tracer in blue.

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There are 353 messages in this topic.

 

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