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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
THE OFFICIAL GUTTED!!! THREAD

wallwombat
29/05/2010
8:59:10 PM
I've never had a problem solo aiding with one belay loop. Why do you particularly want two?

And THE OFFICIAL PISSED OFF THREAD is the place for these little annoyances.
dave
29/05/2010
9:22:00 PM
On 29/05/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>Not so much gutted but more annoyed/fustrated because one belay loop set
>up for solo aiding is not enough! Well it is but two would be awsome.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-glbl/shop/climb/harnesses/big-gun

Comes with 2 seperate belay loops. Problem solved!
bl@ke
29/05/2010
9:32:21 PM
Yeah a big gun would be sick but i need other big wall related stuff before i can indulge in one. I would like two to sort out the cluster thats happenin there, i mean its not that bad its just two would be nice. This is what iv got goin on there at the moment: (Going down) Fifi attatched to the loop on the waist part of the harness, then my right then left daisy attached to my belay loop and a loop of 5.5mm cord, then my grigri and then i guess an extra thing would be the end of my rope.
Maybe im just used to a bit of rope there normaly.

wallwombat
29/05/2010
9:53:09 PM
I attach the two daisies through both the waist and leg loops, rather than the belay loop (as you do when tying in normally with a rope). Same with the fifi. I sometimes clip a 15cm quickdraw through there too, attached with a screw gate.

The only thing I have attached the belay loop is my modified GriGri, although when I tie a back up knot I clip that into the belay loop. It means I only ever have two things clipped to my belay loop.

When I'm solo-aiding (it's been a long time), I don't tie into the end of the rope. There is no point as that end is going to be clipped into the next belay.
bl@ke
29/05/2010
10:02:25 PM
Thanks ww. im trying that system now and its very nice. I havnt bothered modin my grigri though. Yeah to top step i have to use a draw and i guess to top step nearly everyone would too...
Paul
29/05/2010
10:16:00 PM
On 29/05/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>Not so much gutted but more annoyed/fustrated because one belay loop set
>up for solo aiding is not enough! Well it is but two would be awsome.

Buy a 10 or 15cm sewn sling and simpily thread it on to your harness. Undo the wast strap, thread it through, disconest one of the elastic straps at the back of one of the leg loops and thread the whole leg loop through. Then reconnect everything and your done.

wallwombat
29/05/2010
10:38:24 PM
On 29/05/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>Thanks ww. im trying that system now and its very nice. I havnt bothered
>modin my grigri though. Yeah to top step i have to use a draw and i guess
>to top step nearly everyone would too...

You don't really need to mod the GriGri for aid. It does help if you need to do some free moves though, as the rope runs through much easier.

Paul's idea of threading a short sewn sling would work but I think it's just another extra at the front of your harness that you don't really need. I find the system I mentioned in the other thread works fine. No point over-complicating something that is already pretty complicated.

Just remember to always tie back up knots.
bl@ke
29/05/2010
10:46:34 PM

>Just remember to always tie back up knots.

How often ? Tie them like a figure 8 on the bight or to your harness?

thanks for the idea Paul i might give it a go but ww's system is awsome for now.

wallwombat
29/05/2010
11:33:45 PM
On 29/05/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>
>>Just remember to always tie back up knots.
>
>How often ? Tie them like a figure 8 on the bight or to your harness?


Tie a overhand or figure 8 on a bight and clip the bight to your harness. That is your backup knot. If the off chance that the GriGri or its attachment blows, you get caught by the knot. As you climb the slack rope gets pulled through the grigri. Eventually your gonna hit the backup knot. Just befor you do, pull up some more slack and tie anther knot and clip it in. Now undo the last knot and you have a bunch more slack. You will work out how often. To start with I'd say reasonably often.

And use a steel D shaped Maillon to attach your GriGri to your harness, not a screw gate biner. A D shaped Maillon will take a three way load. They aren't expensive. It's your main connection (don't skimp on this one).

If you haven't already had a look at Bomber Pro's Beginner's Intro to Solo Aid, I suggest you do so. In fact read it a few times, until you totally understand the process.

Instead of using a chest harness to keep the GriGri in an upright position, I use a loop of bungey cord, attached though the keeper chord on the GriGri with a lark's head and looped over my head. This works fine as the sole purpose of the chest harness is to simply keep the GriGri in an upright position.

Sheesh.....after writing all that I can see why nowadays I mainly go bouldering ; )

Good luck and be CAREFUL.

bl@ke
30/05/2010
11:39:59 AM
Cheers ww, i will track down a malion and maybe some screamers for my anchor.
bl@ke
7/06/2010
8:39:01 PM
Im gutted! Im gutted because i cant go to Arapiles this long weekend so im stuck doing NO climbing!

sliamese
13/06/2010
1:49:47 PM
im gutted because in the time i was supposed to be in alaska, the giri giri boys climbed both routes we had our eyes on and did two FA's. goddamit it nearly brings tears to my eyes... :(

markq
22/06/2010
3:25:41 PM
Im gutted beacause since starting my own company the next 2 (at least) years of Mountains have to remain unclimbed by yours truly. Anyone good at murals? You can paint Denali on the Shed Woodie if you like?

freesolo
25/06/2010
5:17:54 AM
gutted cause my last 3 day weekend in ages and had a climbing trip planned but forecast is heavy rain and t-storms and all my mates cancelled!!! so back to the bloody gym.

phillipivan
14/07/2010
2:34:46 PM
Cadel's Elbow. I didn't realise TV could make me feel so rotten.

ajfclark
14/07/2010
2:37:23 PM
Haven't watched The Circle then have you?

phillipivan
14/07/2010
3:01:22 PM
No.

Sarah Gara
14/07/2010
9:05:48 PM
What's with all this bloody rain? It's like being at flippin home (or Melbourne) Roll on Summer. x
dalai
14/07/2010
10:08:47 PM
Australia has struggled with many years of drought, any rain is good. Should be stoked it's actually falling for a change!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/07/2010
12:13:36 AM
On 14/07/2010 dalai wrote:
>Australia has struggled with many years of drought, any rain is good. Should
>be stoked it's actually falling for a change!

... sowhyyapostingintheguttedthread? ;)
But I'll join in; ... ~> 93mm of rain at Mt Buffalo today. Both my house tank and dam are now overflowing again (1st time this year). I'm stoked as it needs to be that way with fire season around the corner! Heh, heh, heh.

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There are 353 messages in this topic.

 

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