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General Climbing Discussion

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Scenario Thread


Spring Time Flowers

16-Sep-2007
6:52:09 PM

On 15/09/2007 kieranl wrote:

>... and fart frequently to maintain a gaseous cushion between your buttock
>cheeks and the rope.

Tee hee hee !!! Hey Queeran !!! Can u do that thing where you can ' fart ' by flapping ur arm up and down , while uv got ur hand in ur arm pit ???

I CAN !!! :D

And don't get me started on f#nny farts !!!! :D


muki

16-Sep-2007
7:19:17 PM

It's not hard at all to set up a pulley system.
But it is impossible to pull them through the gear inbetween you!
The "unassisted hoist"
The first step is to lock off the belay devise (stich plate in this example) second step, is one prussic
on the load or body weight side of the stich plate (back to the anchor), so you can rest and take a
break when needed (it will be needed) third step, one more prussic to run the biner that forms the pully
(on the load side of stich plate, infront of the auto block) for the rope to run through from the stich plate
(belaying side) to pully and back to you to pull on, every time you pull the pully all the way up to the
auto block infront of the stich plate it will need to be reset (this involves letting the auto block take the
weight, then sliding the prussic with the pully biner back down the rope)
This is a common (3 to 1) system, learn it, practise it it, might come in handy one day!

A better one if your haul is not unconscious, is the "assisted hoist" first lock off the stich plate, place
a prussic on the anchor to hold the rope going down to the haul (this forms the auto block or back up
for resting between pulls)
Then unlock the stich plate (taking the load slowly onto the auto block) and put a locking biner or
reversed crabs on the belay side of the rope and keeping a hold on the rope lower the crab/s to the
haul, tell them to clip in the crab/s to the belay loop on the harness (not the gear loops) and the once
clipped and locked, identify the rope that normaly comes out of the stich plate to your hand when
belaying (this should now be running down the haul, and back up to you) tell them to pull on that rope
when you give the call,and pull on the rope that comes back up to your hands, this is easy hauling as
it is a 3 to 1, but with two people hauling it (you and the haul) it is now a 6 to 1.
Happy hauling, hope this helps equipment list: 2 prussics, 2 locking gates, plenty of wheat bix. BP


Spring Time Flowers

16-Sep-2007
7:30:39 PM

>every time you pull the pully all the way up to the auto block infront of the stich plate ...

Yeah , might be OK 4 u , big fella !!! But I thought the best system is where u step down on a sling to pull the weight up ...


Macciza

16-Sep-2007
8:53:13 PM

On 16/09/2007 Spring Time Flowers wrote:

>But I thought the best system is where u step down on a sling to pull the weight up ...

Umm, no . . . you thought wrong. In technical terms pulling down is a 'disadvantage' . . .
Unless your just raising a day-pack which isn;t really hauling and does not need a z-pulley . . .


muki

16-Sep-2007
9:12:50 PM

On 16/09/2007 Spring Time Flowers wrote:
>But I thought the best system is where u step down on a sling to pull the weight up ...
You might be thinking of the yosemite Stomper hauling setup?
This is somthing that I have tried in combo with an unassisted hoist, but found that unless you have, A:a
high anchor point (the Stomper needs a high anchor point to function in the first place)B:an extra prussic
to rig of the extra pully up on the anchor, and finally C: real pulleys (the Stomper introduces yet another
pully point but with that comes extra drag!) to actually make the thing work, it won't !!! just too much drag
most Yosemite Stompers are used on a single High pully with a built in toothed cam, like a jumar has,
these are called "wall haulers"I have one, and they are great for lifting "pigs" or haulbags as they are
somtimes called.But even with the Wall Hauler, it still requires a jumar with foot strap and lifting the line
up as you stand in the ets to get the pig airborn! this IMHO would not work well for a casualty. BP


Spring Time Flowers

16-Sep-2007
11:13:00 PM

>this IMHO would not work well for a casualty...

A casualty ??? Just cut the fkn rope !!! Thats what they did on Peter Hillarys Ama Dablam expedition...


DaCrux

17-Sep-2007
12:44:50 PM

On 15/09/2007 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>I recommend you do "the Human Gri Gri", which is where you grap the rope
>between your buttock cheeks,
>then by pulling on the handle on the front of the device you can release
>some pressure, and descend.

As demonstrated here


Eduardo Slabofvic

17-Sep-2007
5:50:10 PM

On 17/09/2007 DaCrux wrote:
>As demonstrated here.

That's not the Human Gri Gri, that's just the bag it came in.

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