Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Hardrock in the city at last


cruze

5-Mar-2008
3:51:11 PM

Good training for Babylon in NZ (see southern faces) - "you can't stand on underclings"


Rich

12-Mar-2008
8:36:38 PM

the word is that the whole gym is going to be properly reset by real routesetters with new rubberbacked holds, spring washers all in one hit. apparently they are waiting on a shipment of holds. don't hold your breath though. personally I won't be going back until this is done as it's absolute waste of money at the moment. lactic, nunawading or altona are the go.. (and of course burnley)

citationx

13-Mar-2008
3:19:25 PM

I don't remember who said it, but i'm sure i read somewhere one of the owners/managers/workers exasperatedly saying on here that they "even reset the routes every two weeks", why don't real climbers like it.
Personally, if people from there are still listening, as someone who thoroughly enjoys going to the biggest sydney gym each week and doesn't mind paying $15 a pop for it, you'd do well to replicate what they do to an extent.
that is, don't bother spending money "resetting every two weeks", spend money on fixing the problem holds and/or spend extra to get good routes set. There's been a "grade 24" route that has been up at the gym for around 6 weeks now, and we're still loving it! (more to the point, we're still loving falling off it!)
the gym is probably split into 6 major "sections" of walls, and each one gets reset every 1-1.5 months, with quality routes. admittedly, their place is probably bigger than yours and so has many more routes to do before we've "done them all", but still, every two weeks is pretty short and doesn't allow anyone to project anything before it's gone.
so yeah, less resetting and more setting of quality routes is my suggestion!!
(i'm looking to move to melbourne soon so a quality gym near the city would be handy after work!! - self motivated post of course!)

On 12/03/2008 Rich wrote:
>the word is that the whole gym is going to be properly reset by real routesetters
>with new rubberbacked holds, spring washers all in one hit. apparently
>they are waiting on a shipment of holds. don't hold your breath though.
>personally I won't be going back until this is done as it's absolute waste
>of money at the moment. lactic, nunawading or altona are the go.. (and
>of course burnley)


billk

13-Mar-2008
3:33:50 PM

It's a long time since any route only stayed up for 6 weeks at any of the Melbourne gyms. : (

It's probably been a long time since any gym in Melbourne had route setting activity as frequently as every two weeks.

bones

19-May-2008
12:24:11 PM

I've been to Hardrock quite a bit over the last few weeks and just wanted to say that I think the place is improving a lot. There aren't many spinning holds anymore and some great new routes (love the new green 23 on the slabby wall and the red 19 on the diagonal arete opposite the auto belay)


ajfclark

19-May-2008
12:53:52 PM

On 19/05/2008 bones wrote:
>I've been to Hardrock quite a bit over the last few weeks and just wanted to say that I think the place is improving a lot. There aren't many spinning holds anymore and some great new routes (love the new green 23 on the slabby wall and the red 19 on the diagonal arete opposite the auto belay)

If it's the same red 19 I'm thinking of it's been there for many, many months, it used to be graded an 18 before the hold under the corner moved and made it a lot harder. They have hung a bunch of new stuff, a green 15 on the same diagonal arete as the red 19, the green 23, a black 16 and the yellow 14 all on the slab are new. The green 14 (I could be wrong on that grade) on the arete with the crack under it at the left end of the slab wall is also newish.

I agree that the spinning holds have gotten much better though last Thursday I swore they'd all been moved to the green 16 near the short wall; 14 holds spun on it when I tried to climb it...


ajfclark

23-Jun-2010
12:11:40 PM

This is a bit of random thread necromancy on my part...

Does anyone know what happened to the bolt on the edge of the second over hang on the lead only green 17 on the pillar (the 5th to last bolt or so)? It looks like it's sheered off and they just extended the draw above it a little...

On a different note:

On 19/05/2008 (so over 2 years ago for those playing along at home) bones and ajfclark wrote:
>the green 23 on the slabby wall

is still there...

>a black 16 on the slab are new...

is also still there I think...

>The green 14 at the left end of the slab wall is also newish.

It's graded 15 and still there...

There are 227 messages in this topic.