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Hardrock in the city at last


cruze

30-Aug-2007
11:16:00 AM

So is the problem likely to continue each time the routes get changed and new holes get used for holds? If so, then they really should be moving on this problem. I for one have decided not to bother going back until I hear that the problem has been fixed.


garbie

30-Aug-2007
11:40:46 AM

On 30/08/2007 cruze wrote:
>So is the problem likely to continue each time the routes get changed and
>new holes get used for holds?

yep thats right

Duncan

30-Aug-2007
12:05:27 PM

On 24/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>Where's DJ Christian or DJ Corey when you need them? NWA at full volume
>the other night at Lactic was
>classic...

Straight outta Abbotsford?

Fish Boy

30-Aug-2007
7:02:24 PM

On 30/08/2007 Duncan wrote:
>On 24/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>>Where's DJ Christian or DJ Corey when you need them? NWA at full volume
>>the other night at Lactic was
>>classic...
>
>Straight outta Abbotsford?

Pisser!

wyt91t

31-Aug-2007
12:11:27 AM

SO
are the holds countersunk


nmonteith

31-Aug-2007
12:19:13 PM

no, they are just attached to the wall with t-nuts, like most gyms i imagine (well, just like every gym in
Melbourne anyway)


latheboy

31-Aug-2007
12:37:29 PM

It would depend on the holds ,and having never been there id still say some would be c/s .. but most holds are counterbored .. they are both very good but its all up to how limp a wrist the setter has or bad possitioning of the holds .. or t-nuts fitted on gay angles

dalai

31-Aug-2007
12:39:07 PM

On 31/08/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>no, they are just attached to the wall with t-nuts, like most gyms i imagine
>(well, just like every gym in
>Melbourne anyway)

No Neil, what wyt91t is asking whether the holds used are those with the metal washer design which uses a standard bolt or the countersunk design where the holds bolt hole is tapered and a countersunk bolt is used without a washer in the hold...

I can't say personally, but many of the Hardrock holds were the countersunk variety in years past.


nmonteith

31-Aug-2007
12:56:06 PM

ahhh cool. no one else was attempting to answer the question so i gave it a shot!

dalai

31-Aug-2007
12:58:38 PM

I didn't answer the question as I haven't been there...

wyt91t

31-Aug-2007
1:59:45 PM

Yeap from my experience it's the countersunk holds that will allways spin first unless they are designed with a small hole in them so you can put a screw in it to stop this from happening.

dave

1-Sep-2007
12:41:05 AM

On 31/08/2007 wyt91t wrote:
>Yeap from my experience it's the countersunk holds that will always spin
>first unless they are designed with a small hole in them so you can put
>a screw in it to stop this from happening.

About half of the holds are countersunk, its a real mixture. In my experience countersunk don't spin that much more...it depends mainly on hold design (ie. small contact area with wall, large distance between bolt and end of hold meaning hold acts like a lever, etc.)

On 31/08/2007 Latheboy wrote:
>It would depend on the holds ,and having never been there id still say some would be c/s .. but >most holds are counterbored .. they are both very good but its all up to how limp a wrist the >setter has or bad possitioning of the holds .. or t-nuts fitted on gay angles

All the holds were set using cordless impact drivers so limp wrists weren't a problem!!

Dave


westie

10-Sep-2007
10:53:51 AM

Is there some sort of consensus on the hardest route there? toward the far end there is some overhang there are one or two tricky routes up the right side of the overhang. What do people think a 22/23 perhaps?
Here's a coincidence for you: A mate and I were there on Friday night and I was leading a climb I'd top roped the week before. I got to a delicate spot and couldn't figure the sequence. Tried it three-four times pumped out and gave up. At that point I spotted a bolt with a wee bit of plastic around the edge - a crucial hold had been broken off. a week later I'm chatting with a climber I know and he's complaining about the holds and how he broke one off. It turns out he was the culprit. What are the odds on that one?


Tjurri

15-Sep-2007
5:47:58 PM

This sounds like a neat new place. Would prolly be easier to get to than some others b/c of transport... Are they open during the days? Would anyone like to cruise in for an exploratory climb in the next couple of weeks?

userfriendly

16-Sep-2007
12:09:07 AM

yes definitely, Tjurri. I'm down in mel next week..17-23 of sep and would love to have a bit of a climb and check it out.

they are open from 12pm-10pm mon-fri
and weekends 11am-7pm.
send me a pm if your interested or just e-mail
col01niloc@yahoo.com.au


Spring Time Flowers

16-Sep-2007
6:04:13 PM

On 31/08/2007 wyt91t wrote:
>Yeap from my experience it's the countersunk holds that will allways spin
>first unless they are designed with a small hole in them so you can put
>a screw in it to stop this from happening.

Actually
* smug tone *
I have a friend who works there, and they told me that the holds are designed to spin , so that you can climb the same root at different grades , simply be rotating the hold , to a different angle each time.

COOL, AY !!! :)


diablo

17-Sep-2007
11:25:22 AM

you really are a complete dickhead, arnt you...


Tjurri

23-Sep-2007
9:18:16 PM

Had a lovely evening last Monday trying out the new gym... Sure enough found plenty of spinning holds and had to guess the grades. That didn't bother me so much as the sight of a climber coming off an overhanging climb and nearly hitting the window!

It's funny how the floor comes right out to the edge of the window and the height there is freaky, yet you can get on the routes and not worry about it. Hmmm.

Would have been a perfect night if not for a tram not turning up, missing a train by about 2 minutes then having to wait 2 hours for the next one, and that breaking down... Might stick with driving to Altona.


The good Dr

19-Oct-2007
11:32:42 AM

A Short review.

Went to Hardrock City for the first time last night. Overall score 2/5

Location: Excellent (I live about 10-15 min walk away) 5/5

Layout: Good given the restrictions of the design space. 3.5/5

Initial instruction: Not great. Too rushed for the newbies and not clear enough on why some things are important when belaying (Eg no explanation of why the brake hand should never leave the rope) 2.5/5

Routes: Pedestrian route setting. Many routes had a hard move to get off the ground (risk of slapping the tarmac). Many of the crux moves were reachy. A number of the routes had silly reachy last moves. The feature cracks were actually quite good. 2.5/5

Spinning holds: This is a major issue which really pissed me off. Every route (except for the feature cracks) had spinning holds, often more than 1. This is an injury risk and a possible liability risk for Hardrock itself. Until this issue is resolve (which is pretty easy really) I will not be going back and will not be recommending the gym to others. 0/5

The gym is good for beginners and intermediate climbers though not great for those in pursuit of the upper levels of glory. Tackling the spinning holds would certainly improve the climbing experience and make many people a lot happier.


nmonteith

19-Oct-2007
12:18:59 PM

I can't beleive 2 months and the hold spinning issue is still a problem! Fix the holds and I will be a semi-
regualr. Until then i'm going elsewhere - even if it does involve an extra 20km of driving.

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