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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 145
Author
Should you put climbs up for others?

muki
24/07/2007
2:52:55 PM
On 24/07/2007 gordoste wrote:
On 23/07/2007 bomber pro wrote:
As to the problem with shorter climbers having difficulty cliping the
gear or even being able to put the
runner on in the first place, I have found that more and more bolts are
going in that are placed to be in
a position that allows the leader to clip the rope ONLY if the draw is
already hanging there!
Just an observation, not cool if you are into onsighting like me, but
I'm six foot, so I can usually pull it
out of the bag somehow, but it still makes me curse the bolters!

>Here in NE Victoria many of the bolts were hand-drilled by tall people.
>Hand-drilling means you tend to place things as high as possible to avoid
>drilling extra bolts. So it can mean some very reachy clipping of carrots
>from tenuous stances (most of the climbing is on granite which tends to
>be slabby or on thin edges). There are also a few cases where the distance
>from 1st to 2nd bolt is further than ground to 1st bolt, which is worrying.
>Of course, it goes without saying that when I bolt my first climb the bolts
>will be perfectly positioned ;) Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I have
>to say that as a general rule, the harder the climbs are, the better-placed
>the bolts tend to be though!

I said "more and more bolts are going in" that means that I am talking about a more recent
phenomenon than the situation you are describing, the climbs I refer to are in the 23-28 zone and are
desighned to be pre-equiped on rapell to then climb the route with draws in place! these are sport
climbs and are not some hand drilled carrot at a stance, but a complete line of fixed gear!
They are not reachy to clip, they are impossible to clip, unless on rapell! and were designed to be led
with the gear on, that always makes me feel like I am flashing a climb rather than onsighting!
MR. REDZONE
24/07/2007
3:23:47 PM
Look at the end of the day,

this being a Victorian site the answer will always come back in the affirmative for 1960's thinking.

that being
"bolts are tollerable so long as their aren't too many and so long as their are no opportunities to place Traditional gear, oh and try not to put in any lower offs."

so everyone should quit their whinging and accept your predictable miserable predicament.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/07/2007
3:30:45 PM
On 24/07/2007 MR. REDZONE wrote:
>so everyone should quit their whinging and accept your predictable miserable predicament..
Hmmm.
Not related to mildredmademiserable by any chance ?
MR. REDZONE
24/07/2007
5:18:41 PM
In the case of chockstone

its "selfmade"

I dont know how many bottles of tequilla I would have to drink to be able to see the Mexican way of thinking, but I would suggest its alot!.

wallwombat
24/07/2007
6:29:40 PM
Picture this -
An angry, little, girly-man sportclimber gets home after a bad day at the office. Things didn't quite go his way today. His boss yelled at him and the woman at the shop forgot to put Equal in his latte. To top it off, someone swiped his copy of Men's Health off his desk while he was microwaving his tofu risotto in the lunchroom. He's getting really, really mad. He's entering the REDZONE. What can he do? That's right, he can hop on the net and taunt some of those wiggly-placing mexicans. He can tell them that they are all living in the sixties. He can call them beard-strokers. He can talk about bolting cracks (he knows that makes them fume!).He does this and after a while he's OK again. He's calm. He's centered. He's a lean mean bolt clipping machine. He's all ready to drive up to the Blue Mountains and steal someones project. He's ready to go off!
He's a..


Take!
24/07/2007
7:49:44 PM
Milk wrote:
"this comment does not make sense... blah blah blah"

OK light white, I don't know what climbing gym you live in but it happens, i'll spell it out so it makes sense.

It's not so much on modern sport routes with rings every x metres. But, as mentioned, a bolt will often be placed so it can be clipped from a "good stance" to protect the following hard moves (OR because at that point the climb is becoming runout) and it sometimes is placed high so that it can best protect the following section.
The short climber gets to the 'clipping stance' then has to pull a funky move (often dynamic) to get up to the hand hold which average height climbers use to clip the bolt.
The climber then has to hang around and clip the draw/rope with poor feet on the section of wall above the 'clipping stance' foot placements. Then, after all this, try to successfully continue through the hard (for the grade) moves which the bolt protects. She can't clip it later, as you so helpfully suggest, because by then she's well into the hard/crux moves or runout. I've seen it happen a few times and it certainly makes the climb a lot more dangerous/hard for her. It turns the first ascentionist's "bold" marginal climb into a death climb. It can be hard to know this at the bottom of the climb too.


My original post was not suggesting that 5' tall climbers must be taken into account whenever putting up a climb - she lives with it and climbs around the issue. I 'spose I mentioned this because it sort of bankrupts the "Well they have to be as bold as me or they can't repeat my climb in my style" macho crap.
Now the 5' tall the girl has to be much more bold (not to mention a technically better climber) if she wants to "onsight" these climbs using the accepted ethics. She never gets to do these climbs in the style of the original ascentionist - she always does them in a much more bold/hard manner, and never bleats about how tough or bold she is.

Remember, when the "I only put up the climb for me and I don't place many bolts, cos i'm hard" people actually do place a bolt they are saying "here is where I got scared - here is where I decided that love of life overrules my worship of style".

OK so now this is sounding a bit troll-like, sorry about that.

rodw
24/07/2007
8:41:16 PM
Come on wombat you know your turning to the truer art of climbing, which is sport...or you can just continue doing more extreme abseiling trying to get your nuts out of a crack and pretend you love trad...time to buy a drill and join the collective....resistance is futile!!!!!!!!
Mr Milk
24/07/2007
8:47:20 PM
Hey take! With an attitude like that, I bet you say 'take!' a lot eh?

I wish I lived in a climbing gym. Gym climbing is really the last frontier; the one place where finally, ones performance isn't determined by skill or boldness, but by pure strength. I love it!

First off, I would like to mention that I have done quite a few rockclimbs. From the 'rings every x metres' style that you mentoned, right through to very dangerous affairs, where I wished I was back in the gym. That's what you wanted to hear, right?

Well, first to your example. It sounds like your girl, (I'm presuming she's five foot), should try some easier climbs, as it sounds like she's having trouble clipping the crux bolts. Maybe time for something easier eh?

Ok, I've made my point, you are a creampuff Victorian. I know you love to classify us as gym loving losers, but in actual fact, I've lived in Victoria, and Victorian climbers spend far more time in the gym than anyone! Your crappy weather forces climbers to spend their time in seedy hardrock, everyone bitching about the weather, and telling each other how much they would be sending if they were in the gramps, and in sunshine. Meanwhile, everyone without a negative hang-up is getting out there, climbing stuff, having fun, and making friends.

I don't want to turn this into a nsw v's vic slinging match, as I have a lot of Victorian friends. Just spelling out the truths =)

Love you!
MR. REDZONE
24/07/2007
8:47:56 PM
An angry, little, girly-man sportclimber gets home after a bad day at the office. Things didn't quite go his way today. His boss yelled at him and the woman at the shop forgot to put Equal in his latte. To top it off, someone swiped his copy of Men's Health off his desk while he was microwaving his tofu risotto in the lunchroom. He's getting really, really mad. He's entering the REDZONE. What can he do? That's right, he can hop on the net and taunt some of those wiggly-placing mexicans. He can tell them that they are all living in the sixties. He can call them beard-strokers. He can talk about bolting cracks (he knows that makes them fume!).He does this and after a while he's OK again. He's calm. He's centered. He's a lean mean bolt clipping machine. He's all ready to drive up to the Blue Mountains and steal someones project. He's ready to go off!




yep.
thats about right.
the sooner you pull your head out of your ass you'll see that its the way forward wallrat.

oh yeah....and 'take' your a wanker too dude.

wallwombat
24/07/2007
9:22:29 PM
On 24/07/2007 rodw wrote:
>Come on wombat you know your turning to the truer art of climbing, which
>is sport...or you can just continue doing more extreme abseiling trying
>to get your nuts out of a crack and pretend you love trad...time to buy
>a drill and join the collective....resistance is futile!!!!!!!!

Rod

I agree with you. It's my next purchase, without a doubt. The evil lure of the ringbolt has got me. Also I don't think I can find anyone to belay me on my trad chossfests anymore. Kenny quit climbing after belaying me on that last one. I think I'll save trad climbing for interstate holidays from now on.

And sorry to MR REDZONE. I thought you would be a bit better at copping flak considering the delight you seem to take in handing it out. I thought you'd be made of sterner stuff. Guess not.

Diddums!
Sue B
24/07/2007
10:24:39 PM
This looks like a good site - but you boys that obviously can't do without bolts should have a word with your other halves. Chances are they can relate to this photo:
Take!
25/07/2007
8:34:55 PM
No, sorry Milky mate, actually a NSW (Blueys) climber. So that's 0 out of 2 for assumptions.
Mr Milk
25/07/2007
9:34:34 PM
great! i look forward to seeing you at the crags... or at st leonards...

perhaps you ought to change your profile sweetness. i guess that makes you a creampuff new south welshman.

Paulie
26/07/2007
4:33:05 PM
On 24/07/2007 Mr Milk wrote:
>Ok, I've made my point, you are a creampuff Victorian. I know you love
>to classify us as gym loving losers, but in actual fact, I've lived in
>Victoria, and Victorian climbers spend far more time in the gym than anyone!
>Your crappy weather forces climbers to spend their time in seedy hardrock,
>everyone bitching about the weather, and telling each other how much they
>would be sending if they were in the gramps, and in sunshine. Meanwhile,
>everyone without a negative hang-up is getting out there, climbing stuff,
>having fun, and making friends.

I would just like to clarify that I live in Victoria and I spend zero time in the gym (well, sometimes in Gordo's shed on his woody (god that sounds suss) but that doesn't really count), because I live in regional Viccy and don't have one within cooee, so I think what you mean to say is that: "Those of you who live within commuting distance of an indoor wall in Victoria..."
simey
26/07/2007
5:28:08 PM
On 24/07/2007 Sue B wrote:
>This looks like a good site - but you boys that obviously can't do without
>bolts should have a word with your other halves. Chances are they can relate
>to this photo:
>


That is a great photo.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/07/2007
5:53:36 PM
On 26/07/2007 simey wrote:

>That is a great photo.

Statistics: 600 posts. Started 9 new topics, 591 replies. 0 Media Reviews

Generally takes 3.63 days to reply.

Last posted on 26/07/2007 at 5:28:08 PM
Last logged in 26/07/2007 at 5:28:42 PM

Congratulations Simey on the above being your (auspicious?) 600 th post!
:)


btw there have been a number of posters who have passed milestones of late. A whole group around the 600 mark (Onsight, Ed Slabofvic, tmarsh, with Mike and WM just about to); ... plus dalai just went through the 2500 mark !

Post edit.
& Bob Saki plus bomber pro just went 400 !
:)
dalai
27/07/2007
9:08:55 AM
On 26/07/2007 Idratherbeclimbing wrote:
>btw there have been a number of posters who have passed milestones of
>late. A whole group around the 600 mark (Onsight, Ed Slabofvic, tmarsh,
>with Mike and WM just about to); ... plus dalai just went through the 2500
>mark !

And no matter how hard I try Idratherbeclimbing, you seem to keep a nice buffer of ~150 posts... ;-)

I need the ICU to contest your whereabouts over the last three months and try and get you disqualified. That way I can slip into second!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/07/2007
9:13:55 AM
It's all a game dalai (I do it deliberately!) :), and I wouldn't worry too much as I reckon we will both soon be eclipsed by mousey, sabu, hex=ghost=M10&othertrollreincarnations et al ... !

... still take them a while to bridge the gap that nmonteith has established though.
What is rad is that unlike mine, the majority of his posts are relevant !!

Good to see Chockstone alive and healthy, even if parochial at times !
james
27/07/2007
9:14:10 AM
all you need is some media hype dalai! such a meldodrama, Rasmussen shouldn't have been kicked out.

Hawkman
27/07/2007
9:19:05 AM
On 27/07/2007 james wrote:
>all you need is some media hype dalai! such a meldodrama, Rasmussen shouldn't
>have been kicked out.

indeed. He should never have been allowed to start.


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