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Good Arapiles 18-22 Face Climbs

JDB

24-Nov-2006
10:32:07 AM

Heading to 'The Pile' on the weekend, looking for recommedations of good 18-22 face climbs (with good pro)

JDB

24-Nov-2006
10:35:25 AM

Try spell check for starters !!


cruze

24-Nov-2006
10:51:02 AM

Good ones this weekend would be in the shade - looks like it is going to be a belter.


Chalk Free

24-Nov-2006
10:51:33 AM

Golden fleece, Stoat steps out, Creeping green chinese crud, Bunyip, Tannin, Lemmington


phil_nev

24-Nov-2006
10:52:51 AM

Colision Course (22)
Squeekeasy (22)
Feral Chicken (22)
Comic Releif (21)

Heaps of stuff on new Image wall in the 18-22 range. Try the 21 Continium... Its nails :)

phil

stuart h

24-Nov-2006
10:58:47 AM

I assume your specification of face climbs means that you don't want to stick your hand/fist/foot/head into anything too unpleasant. For a weekend these are all one pitch routes to rappel stations, you climb them basically on holds rather than any continuous crack features and you should find generally excellent protection (although you will want rps for a couple of them):

18 - kinkaid, garden gnome, morgul khan (and the even better salem (flake)next to it)
19/20 -tannin, rosy shy, firedance, new image
21/22 -sky diver, wasp, feral chicken, in lemon butter

If you want a bigger outing, Auto de fe has pretty good pro (better than people seem to expect, especially if you climb 22) and you can link it into Stranger's Eliminate for 4-5 pitches of solid climbing with hardly a crack in sight.


cruze

24-Nov-2006
11:08:55 AM

On 24/11/2006 stuart h wrote:
>I assume your specification of face climbs means that you don't want to
>stick your hand/fist/foot/head into anything too unpleasant. For a weekend
>these are all one pitch routes to rappel stations, you climb them basically
>on holds rather than any continuous crack features and you should find
>generally excellent protection (although you will want rps for a couple
>of them):
>
>18 - kinkaid, garden gnome, morgul khan (and the even better salem (flake)next
>to it)
>19/20 -tannin, rosy shy, firedance, new image
>21/22 -sky diver, wasp, feral chicken, in lemon butter
>
>If you want a bigger outing, Auto de fe has pretty good pro (better than
>people seem to expect, especially if you climb 22) and you can link it
>into Stranger's Eliminate for 4-5 pitches of solid climbing with hardly
>a crack in sight.
>
>
ah hem... There is that wee little crack 30 m to the left of Auto de fe...

To be a little more useful than my previous post:

In the 18-19 range (the upper band has received some attention)
I second Golden Fleece, Lemmington, Tannin
Also Entertainer, Death row (well there is a little laybacking/bridging and maybe one jam move).

I think most of the well-protected face climbs at Araps in that range involve a crack of some description for gear.

gfdonc

24-Nov-2006
11:11:08 AM

You've already got a copy of my tick list John.

Give Honeycomb a shot!
Have you done Quisling?

Squeakeasy .. go on .. you know you want to ..

((quote continues for those who understand the inflection ..
Baldrick: All right, if you say so.
Percy: MMMmm. Mmmmm! Ogowh. What an original perfume!
Edmund: That is our Baldrick. He is wearing a dress.))


PreferKnitting

24-Nov-2006
2:28:40 PM

the wee little crack.. would that be Skink? Good climb albeit hot in the sun. What about Oceanoid? Shade? Cool feature. Good gear. Little asteroid and dinasour.

Have fun.


Eduardo Slabofvic

24-Nov-2006
2:47:22 PM

Blue Hawaii, as it's the time of year to lurk in shady gullies.


Chalk Free

24-Nov-2006
4:27:29 PM

forgot XI

what an oversight

simey

24-Nov-2006
4:33:18 PM

Claw, Electra, Wizard of Ice, Hyena, Kingdom Come, Five Fingered Mary, Scorpion, The Rack, Light Fingered, Braindrops, Jackal, Fang.

gfdonc

24-Nov-2006
4:52:31 PM

I think a couple of those have previously been identified as trench warfare. Please reference the "sandbag" thread.

However, fortunately JB has enough grey hairs not to fall for such trickery.

I also recall Julian's comments about how hard he found Braindrops, so have been forewarned.

Fish Boy

25-Nov-2006
8:18:36 AM

I second 5 fingered mary as being one of the classiest face routes out there, in particular the last pitch....


muki

25-Nov-2006
8:40:03 PM

18,Entertianer, XI .19,Lemington, Quo vadis, Judgement day. 20,Take five .21 Auto de fe, Comic
relief .22 Collision course, The second coming ,also Trinity wall- but you will need a good second for this
one!, All with exellent gear, all be it small and spaced at times. the bomb


Cool Hand Lock

26-Nov-2006
12:59:12 AM

On 24/11/2006 simey wrote:
>Claw, Electra, Wizard of Ice, Hyena, Kingdom Come, Five Fingered Mary,
>Scorpion, The Rack, Light Fingered, Braindrops, Jackal, Fang.

Very funny.

Fish Boy

27-Nov-2006
9:24:26 AM

On 25/11/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>18 Lemington,Entertianer .19 Missing link Judgement day,20 Quo vadis Take
>five,21 Auto de fe Comic
>relief,22 Collision course The second coming ,also Trinity wall- but you
>will need a good second for this
>one!, All with exellent gear, all be it small and spaced at times.
>the bomb

Lemington is 19, Entertainer is 18, Missing Link is 17, Judgement Day is 19, Quo Vadis is 19...


Cool Hand Lock

27-Nov-2006
12:06:37 PM

Yeah, those routes got so much easier, suddenly.


muki

27-Nov-2006
12:38:57 PM

Hey fish face ,the easier grades are all the same to me, the teens are all a bit of a blur really. so long
ago, but the routes are nice and if the guy wants to climb between 18 and 22 then who really gives a
flying ffuucckk if I wrote 18 or 19 for such and such or not, cause he wont , only some anal rententive
like you, and if you are so concerned about the grades I thought the climbes were given, then read my
post ,I think I got lemington,missing link,and quo vadis wrong, not entertainer or judgement day, I was
just trying to be helpfull - what are you doing nit picking get a life the bomb

gfdonc

27-Nov-2006
12:51:23 PM

Ah, beauty, a grading debate... why not?

Lemmington is 19 and deserves it.
Judgement Day is 19 IMHO but you could argue 20 - it gets 20 in some references - can't quote any though.
Ditto Quo Vadis, has been said to me it's the stiffest 19 at Araps. Gym bunnies should be able to pull through the lower crux section though, its the slippery top part that may give them trouble.

Meanwhile the instigator of this thread is at the Pines, hopefully enjoying some of these classics, he can give you his $0.02 worth on Wednesday eh John?

There are 28 messages in this topic.