DMM "Bug". (Assorted Anodised colours. Grey pictured...)
Great all-rounder with exceptional friction. IMO)
NB NEW lighter model.
Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Hey mousey was that quote running through your head as you were soloing, toping out on that choosy crack at the K, or was it this one...
"Many people would sooner die than think; In fact, they do so. "
no, all that was runinig through my head is 'im a f---en idiot, i should have taken the walking track'
i only did it to get the spare glue nozzle, and i started up it thinking it was like a grade 9 or something...i was wrong
More science on risk taking care of The Times:
“Rainbow trout certainly have contrasting personalities. Some are bold and some are shy. The bold fish take risks, they are quick to learn, more aggressive and active. Shy fish are cautious and timid, and spend more time under cover.
In the study, ... (the) team first watched rainbow trout as they were exposed to new and unfamiliar stimuli in the form of shapes made of Lego dropped into their tanks. Fish were then categorised as bold or shy...
The researchers then conducted two experiments on each group. In the first, shy and bold fish were placed in a tank for about 15 minutes a day with another fish that was either much larger or much smaller. ... this was designed to provoke a fight in which the size difference between the fish would decide the winner.
When retested with unfamiliar food or objects, shy fish that had repeatedly won such fights grew much bolder, whereas bold fish that had repeatedly lost territorial fights to larger fish became more cautious.
Victorious bold fish remained bold, but shy fish that lost also grew more adventurous. Dr Sneddon said that this was probably the result of a “Desperado effect”. Submissive fish learn that the only way to feed is to take more risks.
In the second experiment, ... fish were given the opportunity to observe a fish of the opposite personality type as unfamiliar food was dropped into a tank divided by a one-way mirror. The “observer” fish could thus see how the “demonstrator” fish reacted, but the latter was unaware of the presence of the former. When bold fish watched shy fish, they became more reserved. The shy fish, however, stayed shy after watching bold ones. Dr Sneddon said that it was possible that the fish thought themselves unable to compete with dominant individuals and thus refused to ape their behaviour."
Climbers just like rainbow trout really.
Times article here: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2-2464852.html
Verry in-ter-es-ting ... (in a Sgt Schultz accent) ...
>Climbers just like rainbow trout really
... only to eat?
The conclusions drawn sound a bit fishy to me (!); because I like to think that I run my own race and don't compare my actions to those of others; ... other than to learn (improve) technique/survival things by feedback from others and their experiences.
The bit I thought most relevant (and a catchy phrase) was the “Desperado effect”. If you see that a route has been done at a grade you can climb and you realise the only way it could have been done was taking a particular risk you may well take that risk. If on the other hand the risk existed on an unclimbed route a climber may be more inclined to retreat thinking that it was too hard for them.
I am just like a rainbow trout but bigger without gills, scales, fins and with limbs but less common sense.
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