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General Climbing Discussion

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Rap Chains at North Jawbone

Surveyorcam

22-Sep-2006
10:25:07 AM

Can any one tell me where you end up if you abseil off the chains at the top of Xenith / Cadence at the North Jawbone. Is there another set of chains lower down or do you actually reach the ground from there?

Fish Boy

22-Sep-2006
10:48:24 AM

I usually wrap the rope around a tree poking out of the Speigals crack, near its 2nd (?) belay, just down from the overlap of Xanthene.

ardnut

22-Sep-2006
11:03:07 AM

If you are talking about the chains above "Captains of Industry" which is a gr 18 variant finish to Spiegals
Overhang, two 50's get you to the tree below the first overlap on SO, its a hassle to rap off the tee tree,
but then, so is walking down... the original plan was to have another set on the first belay of xenith/
retribution (neat little ledge on arete above roofs) will make for an exciting drop to your bags and cleaner
rope pull (plus rapping back down the trade route is crazy and crowded), on the day the batteries ran
out... also explains why the last bolt on 'C of I' is showing a bit. So thats the plan anyway, I will get out
there soon, unless of course someone beats me to it.

Surveyorcam

22-Sep-2006
11:57:31 AM

Sounds like a plan. I reckon I would only use the chains when I climbed a route on the RHS of the cliff. Exposed scramble to two pitches of abseil sounds like a massive hassle to me.

Agreed the walk down is a bit of a pain. It is getting worse with the build up of leaf litter on the track. I am thinking maybe there is a reduced number of people climbing here and so the track is becoming a bit more obscure.

SNAFU

24-Sep-2006
1:51:38 AM

The chains are definitely the best descent option from the right hand butress. Another bolt anchor at the halfway point would be nice and would probably save the pooor old belay tree too !
The scramble down to the first anchor isn't that bad, you just need to careful about it. But then the walk round the back takes you past some interesting climbs (Backwall, American Dream slab and Fruit Hustler slab), so it really depends how much daylight there is left :)

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