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General Climbing Discussion

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30 degree Wall at Burnley.


Super Saiyan

30-May-2006
10:10:15 AM

Pilates, yoga, fitness ball workouts

Goodvibes

30-May-2006
10:28:59 AM

Front levers are great, work the core much better than Yoga. Another great way to improve your core strength and climbing ability is to just boulder on steep walls using small footholds. This really forces you to use alot of body tension to stop your feet cutting loose.


Megan

30-May-2006
10:31:45 AM

Dragon flags!

Stuey

30-May-2006
11:47:16 AM

Other good tricks (although these require training buddies and are maybe little advanced):

(1) Hang from a bar and pull your knees up and in to your stomach (like a knee raise), tense your stomach muscles and have a friend try to pull your knees down with you fighting back to hold your knees up. They should use enough force to make to make you fail at around the 10 second mark. This exercise helps generally with body tension and more specifically, it increases the amount of force you can exert on toe hooks (marignal or otherwise) on roofs/steep walls.

(2) Hang from a bar and pull up your legs straight in front (like in a lever). Get 1 friend to hold your back steady. Get another friend to keep trying to throw your legs down as you fight back, trying to keep returning your legs up to the start position. Again, this exercise helps generally with body tension but specifically helps with cutting loose in control (or controlling it when you lose contact unintentionally)and returning your feet to holds on a roof/steep wall.

Guaranteed to make you wince when you cough/laugh/sneeze for about a week after!


Peacey

30-May-2006
4:04:06 PM

Hi all, well I have tried all climbing moves that everyone has instructed me to try, I have now completed the black climb which is only 18, but on an incline. So I now have to become strong from doing this particular climb over and over. I have two questions; one is it possible to exercise ones forearms so that they are less susceptible too pumping out, I have tried upping my iron intake and light weight exercise to no avail. Two how long is too long when training on a bouldering wall? I know it seems to be a silly question, but I’m trying to become more versatile with my climbing and want to progress as safely as possible without injuring myself.

Cheers

Tristan


Sabu

30-May-2006
5:34:47 PM

To pump out forearms while sitting in bed:
buy yourself a plastic clamp (one that has a spring inside and that you can squeeze) from the $2 shop.
Now squeeze it over and over and over and over until the clamp drops from your hand!!
Repeat as many times as you can be bothered!!!


Super Saiyan

30-May-2006
5:57:15 PM

On 30/05/2006 Sabu wrote:
>To pump out forearms while sitting in bed:

Must.....resist.....making.....stereotypical...joke

God sabu! You are giving me so much ammo here man!


Sabu

30-May-2006
5:58:56 PM

you don't sit in bed and pump out your forearm....??

lol this topic has gone downhill very fast!!

gfdonc

30-May-2006
6:05:19 PM

Sexual jokes aside, Sabu, I can offer some advice from experience:

Don't do this.

When I started training for climbing I used a squeeze clamp, generally in the car so I could work forearms at the traffic lights. Within a few weeks I had nasty elbow tendonitis/tendonosis that took several months to ease.
The clamps are a good way to get overuse injuries as well as not being as helpful to climbing as you'd hope - you're working on grip strength rather than pull strength. I can't explain the physiology but hopefully others can contribute.

After my tendon problems were diagnosed the clamps went into the bottom of the cupboard and haven't been seen since. Work into shape at Burnley instead.


Sabu

30-May-2006
10:18:44 PM

On 30/05/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>When I started training for climbing I used a squeeze clamp, generally
>in the car so I could work forearms at the traffic lights. Within a few
>weeks I had nasty elbow tendonitis/tendonosis that took several months
>to ease.
>The clamps are a good way to get overuse injuries as well as not being
>as helpful to climbing as you'd hope - you're working on grip strength
>rather than pull strength. I can't explain the physiology but hopefully
>others can contribute.
So it doesn't have any benefit? hmm ok!! it felt like it was doing something. hopefully as you said someone else can explain the physiology cos i'd be really interested to what if there is a difference in the muscle groups used.

>After my tendon problems were diagnosed the clamps went into the bottom
>of the cupboard and haven't been seen since. Work into shape at Burnley
>instead.
Pity Burnly is a 45 min (at least) trip via public transport for me :( . hardly even leaving the house atm with exams coming up :( !! sigh counting down till holidays.


Zebedee

30-May-2006
11:37:33 PM

Tried and true training method for steep ground. Climb rocks, steep rocks. Maintian high fitness level. Drink shit loads of beer and eat the cheapest meal you can get. Shag, this doesn't help your climbing but sure feels good.

Goodvibes

31-May-2006
7:59:52 AM

Specificity Sabu, squeezing clamps doesn't exactly resemble actual climbing movements much does it. Then again if you think it is doing you some good then by all means carry on.

As to you Peacey, what happened to cranking out trad 27's? Best advice i can give you is to get a book such as Training for Climbing by Eric Horst and check out the great training advice at http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=8 (check the menu down the left hand side, http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/ as well as https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=school

Hopefully that should give you enough background to get you started.

dalai

31-May-2006
8:55:41 AM

Climbing uses Isometric Contraction, squeezing a clamp Concentric Contractions.

Google, read and learn Sabu...

Also though getting old, the best training bible would still have to be Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann

climbingjac

31-May-2006
9:07:51 AM

On 30/05/2006 Sabu wrote:
>. hardly even leaving the house atm with exams coming up :( !! sigh counting
>down till holidays.

Other students are taking their books to Burnley with them. There is a nice picnic table there that is perfect for such things. Climb a bit, study a bit while you're resting, climb a bit more, study a bit........

gfdonc

31-May-2006
1:19:14 PM

On 31/05/2006 dalai wrote:
>Climbing uses Isometric Contraction, squeezing a clamp Concentric Contractions.

Yep, Dalai got it. The Lama is the source of wisdom again.
Also www.trainingforclimbing.com

I'm probably not a great source of trustworthy information since I've never hauled my ass up anything harder than 25. The others who have chipped in are wiser (but not older!) than I.
However, Sabu, if you do only one thing I'd set up a pull-up bar somewhere at home. Do sets of 10 reps with a rest between each, until you fail to do 10. Limit to 3x per week to avoid injury. Mix in some knees-up pull-ups to strengthen the abs.
Also 8a.nu has some useful hangboarding drills (but they get a bit boring after a while).
- Steve


kezza

31-May-2006
3:09:11 PM

It really does work studying at Burnley.. I did it the other week, my rule was i had to name all the features of a particular bone/name the muscles I'm using when doing a particular move before I could jump back on the wall... Worked for a while when I was there by myself, but once a few people were there I was easily distracted! (damn my attention span)
Give it a go Sabu, you will go insane if you don't climb...
Good luck
Kerryn

robin

31-May-2006
8:34:36 PM

Good mobile phone reception there too so great for one of those 'work break' things if you're on the road.


Peacey

31-May-2006
9:54:59 PM

LOL

I have recently started shoulder rehab, I have put on weight and lost a lot of my stretching ability. Anyone know any exercises that can losen up scar tissue around ones shoulders?

Tristan


Phil Box

1-Jun-2006
8:23:32 AM

On 31/05/2006 Peacey wrote:
Anyone know any exercises that can losen
>up scare tissue around ones shoulders?
>
>Tristan

Try saying boo to it so that you scare it back. ;))


Sabu

1-Jun-2006
1:57:55 PM

On 31/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>Other students are taking their books to Burnley with them. There is
>a nice picnic table there that is perfect for such things. Climb a bit,
>study a bit while you're resting, climb a bit more, study a bit........
good point however that won't help me with the hour and half practice exams that im doing !!!
i climbed last night though, that was nice!!

On 31/05/2006 dalai wrote:
>Google, read and learn Sabu...
Had too much learning recently ....

On 31/05/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>However, Sabu, if you do only one thing I'd set up a pull-up bar somewhere
>at home. Do sets of 10 reps with a rest between each, until you fail to
>do 10. Limit to 3x per week to avoid injury. Mix in some knees-up pull-ups
>to strengthen the abs.
got a pretty good gym set up with all of that, i have been known to do stuff when i have time!! The clamps were just one of my attempts to get stronger!
Another thing we got at school above a doorway are two sets of holds. One set of jugs, the others are pissy little crimpers, only managed 5 chin ups on those in a row. Those i enjoy!!

There are 45 messages in this topic.