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What is Sport and Trad?


nmonteith

18-Feb-2005
10:53:05 AM

Cookie cliff is by FAR the exception at Yosemite. Only the hard routes get bolted as sport routes. The other routes with bolts are the standard big runout, scary as all hell affairs. Almost every trad route in Yosemite has bolted belays - that is standard practice on most of the big walls in the USA.

I guess you can pick apart my statements pretty easily...

In my opinion Victoria has only two true sport crags - The Gallery and Spurt Wall. All the other areas require trad on some routes. In NSW you could list 30 crags which are sport only. In the backwaters of Queensland there are more 'sport only' crags than in Victoria!


tmarsh

18-Feb-2005
2:06:13 PM

On 18/02/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>In my opinion Victoria has only two true sport crags - The Gallery and
>Spurt Wall. All the other areas require trad on some routes. In NSW you

You might want to add Millenium to that list, sport.


nmonteith

18-Feb-2005
2:26:11 PM

Apart from Julian's silly grade 22 trad route in the middle cave! - ...there is actually quite a bit of established trad climbing around Millenium - its just that no one ever does it!


Romfrantic

18-Feb-2005
4:49:23 PM

On 17/02/2005 anthonyk wrote:
>...i guess this is leaning towards a cragging vs adventure climbing argument,
>but thats the fundamental difference between sport routes and trad routes
>to me.
sums it up pretty much for me also.


steph

21-Feb-2005
10:39:44 AM

On 16/02/2005 runnit wrote:
>I'd say sport is all about ticking grades because the pro is already there
>for you, the main focus is to get the route/sequences sussed out
>
>trad is more about the adventure (lower grades, but route finding, uncertain
>pro, pumping out while trying to find the right size bit of gear.....)

Totally agree with runnit. but trad doesnt have to be lower grades - it just means that harder grades are way more stressful but so much more rewarding and the difficulty of hanging around to find the right bit of pro is accounted for in the grade.

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