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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

The Rock, Wagga
1:42:05 PM

2:07:35 PM
The 'Rock' (magazine) Guide sums things up for the place pretty well.

The Northern end (closest to access from carpark) is the popular area because the rock quality is better. There are some easy (& harder) classics here but beware ropedrag on sharp edges. This problem becomes greater as you do climbs along the NW side?.
There is an abseil lower-off point (twin 50 m ropes required?) above (& slightly left of) the climb Angie (classic 15 and start marked with the letter 'A'). Its the 1st good looking crack route (with a rooflet) at the Nth end at about where the 'climbers' access track deposits you. The rooflet can be turned on the left easily (wimped out for some folks?); once up there, ... but then you are off-route as regards the full experience !

Lest We Forget (Arete start not far right of Angie, and takes wall rightwards across the face through the birdcr@p to turn the roof blindly) is an absolute classic 17. Its even better if you stay left up the face above, rather than going easily up right.

Just to the left of Angie there is an arete climb (forgot its name at present) that resembles an upside down staircase. It has a couple of bolts and is classic Gd 21.

The bigger cliff at the Southern end is out of bounds to climbers due Peregrine Falcons etc. (& this is presently their nesting season). I am also told the rock quality at that end is quite poor.

There is also a rare orchid endemic to the whole area; ... tread lightly!

The view from on top is excellent.

I have heard (but not experienced it), that theft from cars in the carpark can (has?), be(en) a problem.

The Nth end access trail passes by an 'intentions book' about 100m short of arriving at the cliff. I think there is some guff in there about maximum numbers in the party ...

Oh yeah, access takes about half an hour from the car if the less distinct climbers track is used. Allow a bit more time if the main trail is used.

>Have I missed anything??
Not if you have been out on real rock.

2:10:14 PM
On 16/11/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote:
> Have I missed anything??

Just read "havachatwithhex" im sure you will be up to date in no time :P
4:44:48 PM
It's also covered in the VCC Eastern Victoria guide. Tomorrow ze vorld!!! It was included because it was a 'local' crag for members of the Border Climbing Club, it contains a couple of more climbs than the Rock guide but that's about it. If I don't end up at Flinders Island next Easter I might get back up that way myself.

5:25:31 PM
On 16/11/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>(snip) so they're on the list (also a variant that joins LWF).

Without a guide in front of me I can't remember / tell you the name of the variant to LWF, however I know its hard. Gd 24+-ish comes to mind. Put up by Bob Cowan and involves a bolt or two plus thin natural gear above. I have not seen anyone lead it, but have seen it successfully toproped into submission on one occasion!

My adrenalin pumps on LWF, but I guess if you are capable of the variant (more or less a direct start straight up the face), then by the time you get to the blind corner you would be feeling like you are recovering from the thin and technical pumpfest below.
It would be pretty to watch someone lead it placing pro enroute ...

Retro-edit clarification points:
The climb left of Angie is called 'Staircase'!
The abseil off is about 37m hence the need for double 50m ropes.
The variants to LWF are 'Secret Agent Man' Gd 22
and CHAOS Gd 23. ~> This is the climb I was referring to
8:17:54 PM
EFP of course you have already checked out and

Further right the Chromium Dog / Space Junk wall looked blimmin' awesome though didn't get on it.

10:49:04 PM
some one has asked about this place before, so do a search and you will find more info.

Angie is a very nice climb, esp if that sort of grade (14-15) is hard enough to be a bit exciting, the towers is the best area, the rest is a bit chossy

Cheers, Richard

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