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General Climbing Discussion

Author

scary anchors

mikl law

13-Nov-2004
5:36:02 AM

The 'merkins are addicted to cold-shuts, which are a bit on the tatty side generally, but aren't too bad for lower-offs.But they often end up on multi-pitch belays, often with 2 or more parties hanging on them. I always back them up. This one was on Soler (5.8) at Seneca Rocks (a loose vertically bedded, much smaller Arapiles. I've been thinking of buyiong a helmet for 34 years, I bought one after a few trips there)

a) The half inch ones are soso, and the 1/4 inch ones are extra flimsy
b) Welding galv coated stuff is not condusive to a strong weld I'm told.
c) When they wear out and try and replace them, they find they can't undo the rusted bolts without snapping them.

So be thankful

tmarsh

13-Nov-2004
11:28:00 AM

On 13/11/2004 mikl law wrote:
>b) Welding galv coated stuff is not condusive to a strong weld I'm told.

They're not welding them and then galvanising them? Or are people taking unwelded cold shuts and
welding them up themselves? Even worse, I've seen photos of them being used as lead protection on
super-hard bolted sport routes.

Not that there's anything wrong with home welded protection, but the orientation of cold shuts would have
to put just about the maximum stress on the weld.

tim

Dave C

13-Nov-2004
11:46:15 AM

Not only does welding galv steel not give a good weld it also creates an area where corrosion will set in very quickly. All in all these things are crap. They have been used in parts of the UK on sport routes in the past and they have largely rusted out of existence within a few years in the climate here (particularly at places like PenTrwyn that are also exposed to salt spray.)

nmonteith

13-Nov-2004
11:57:12 AM

Places like Owens River Gorge (california) and Jacks Canyon (Arizona) are full of those bolts. They are also usually half worn though from people lowering off. The anchors are sometimes not even welded - you just loop your rope over the 'hook' and lower off. Very scary when they are rusted and very worn.

Nottobetaken

13-Nov-2004
12:27:46 PM

Mikl - isn't that what you originally placed on climbs such as Slopin'? Thank goodness times have changed (well... in some people's minds anyway!)

alrob

13-Nov-2004
6:12:20 PM

also mike, slightly off topic, but what was up with the horizontal staple on 'gay olympics' at arap? i didn't know what i was looking at until i flicked through the guide and it said something about a strange bolt you placed.

another form of experimintation from those crazy 80's i assume?

mikl law

14-Nov-2004
1:07:31 AM

Yes, a 3/8" shackle (about 1.5" long) filed to 2 prongs and beaten in. A scary route at the best of times too. I put in a U last time I was there.

The other amusing thing about the climb is that obviously we didn't understand stick clips in the 80's, it would have been much easier.

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