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Your grading system is f#@ked

Dave C

28-Sep-2004
8:40:36 AM

Come on Horse, get back over to UKC Rocktalk where you belong! Nobody in Victoria cares about the rugby anyway, they play proper football!

James

29-Sep-2004
8:51:07 PM

if you do come back in Nov then we'll have a list of classics of each grade for you to do.

Dave C

29-Sep-2004
9:45:21 PM

Brilliant idea James. Start putting the list together.


cheesehead

6-Oct-2004
4:12:47 AM

I must say, both the Brit and Aus grading systems are incredibly appropriate.

Firstly, the Brit system suits their style by fitting as many superfluous words into a description as possible without necessarily being specific or aiding information flow.

Secondly, the Aus system is very suited to the Australian concept of abbreviating things to the utmost, giving as little data as possible to convey your notion.

US is good - it's can be shortened to make you sound experienced. You can drop the letter suffix to be deliberately vague. It features an obselete prefix which can make you sound tech.

As far as value as climbing grades go, Pah!
If you want an epic go to Chamonix and try to figure out how hard a route is with representatives from more than 2 continents. You'll soon see what value/merits different grading systems have.
Personally, I'm getting a tattoo (takes up all my left forearm, or forhead, can't decide) with a conversion chart.

Archangel in Oz

6-Oct-2004
8:59:08 PM

On 6/10/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>Wise (and most philosophical) words Mr Cheesehead!

Yes very apt. It is still bloody raining in the UK and if I don't get out soon I am going to have to post another inflammatory thread just to cheer myself up. Any ideas?

How about BBQs suck.

James

6-Oct-2004
9:04:39 PM

yeah that's right BBQs suck. Instead lets all just sit round, indoors 'cause its always bloody raining, drink warm beer & turn into whinging bloody pommie losers. The poms whinge the most because they have even chossier crags than those cry-baby NSW softies.

Dave C

6-Oct-2004
9:24:01 PM

On 6/10/2004 Archangel in Oz wrote:

>Yes very apt. It is still bloody raining in the UK and if I don't get
>out soon I am going to have to post another inflammatory thread just to
>cheer myself up.

It's OK mate, the forecast is looking up for this weekend.


rodw

7-Oct-2004
9:31:03 AM

On 6/10/2004 James wrote:
> The poms whinge the most because they have even
>chossier crags than those cry-baby NSW softies.

Yeah but at least or chossy crags are close by and can bouklder on things other than bluestone walls within city limits:)

dalai

7-Oct-2004
9:37:02 AM

Sorry Rob, but there are natural boudering area's being developed with city limits as we speak... currently up to V7 but harder projects yet to go!


mousey

7-Oct-2004
12:13:41 PM

yawn....i might duck down to the balkans, 15mins away...
(disclaimer: i wont really, i dont have a car and im supposed to be studying. ill duck down in a few weeks)

ill vouch for the whinging poomies thing though, i live with one
the only good type of pommie is one who surfs at newquay every weekend in naught but boardshorts, and one who headpoints on gritstone because s/he ENJOYS IT

.....and that one i saw in ralph once

dalai

7-Oct-2004
12:33:23 PM

There is the stellar line which would be V10+ also, unfortunately I can't boulder that hard anymore either ;-)

PS Can't believe I have been dragged into this Sydney Melbourne trash!! Both Cities have pro's and con's - lets leave it there!!


rodw

7-Oct-2004
1:44:03 PM

Yeah but it breaks up the work day having a good city vs city slanging match.

dalai

7-Oct-2004
2:26:25 PM

and I fall for it every time!!

I had planned on moving up to Sydney after returning from my last overseas climbing trip in 98. But then my elbows gave in again, met my now wife and took up Ironman triathlons instead...

Glad I didn't move now because training on the bike would be a nightmare in Sydney!!

oh and the bouldering grading system used up in Sydney is a copout!! What looks like a V grade, compares to a V grade but isn't?? Just to avoid any disputes on comparisons between the grades used in Sydney and V system used elsewhere...

Back to you Rod ;-)


Mick

7-Oct-2004
3:49:33 PM

Just to clarify how do the V grades in Sydney differ?

7-Oct-2004
4:52:55 PM

Lucky they chose Clarke (NSW). Hodge (VIC) woulda never got 100

dalai

7-Oct-2004
5:01:41 PM

Mick, I don't have the Sydney Bouldering guidebook in front of me - but it says something in it that the Sydney system ISN'T the V grading system.

Even though that it pretty much matches it exactly and that when problems are discussed they are suggested as V grades. I guess the idea being that if anyone disputes the grades of problems by comparing them to problems elsewhere graded with the V grades it's an easy way out!

Dave C

7-Oct-2004
9:34:20 PM

On 7/10/2004 Mighty Mouse wrote:

>ill vouch for the whinging poomies thing though, i live with one
>the only good type of pommie is one who surfs at newquay every weekend
>in naught but boardshorts, and one who headpoints on gritstone because
>s/he ENJOYS IT

Have to agree with you there. Can't stand a lot of the moaning trad climbers here & the sport climbers are, with a few exceptions, just indoor wall types. I've hooked up with a bunch of gritstone nutters now I've started again and having a whale of a time.
Now the grit season is upon us the headpointing should start in earnest and a few of the guys are starting to try the E8+ routes ground-up as well. Scary enough just watching. Check some of the vids at www.beardownproductions.co.uk - particularly the one of John Roberts trying Gaia (E8) ground-up. Brilliant fall!

mikl law

7-Oct-2004
11:45:37 PM

Dalai, yes the grading system in Sydney is not really Vgrading, I seem to be getting up 5, 6, 7, and 8's here (US), and a few 5's at Anderson's (Vic) the only day I ever bouldered there, while I can only touch the occassional 4 with a lot of work in Sydney. I suspect they flatten out when the grades get higher. Font is too strange to try to make a comparison with.


rodw

8-Oct-2004
9:11:39 AM

Good to know, another reason i cant get up anything. Didnt even realise about the V system being different though as all the boulder problems i put up were garded against the normal V system, or so i thought, but since Ive only bouldered in NSW obviously not.

8-Oct-2004
11:42:24 AM

Why don't we bring beer into it as well? The best beers I've ever had have been Theakston's Old Peculier and Younger's "heavy" (I think it was No.3). Especially when drunk at The Old Dungeon Ghyll. So those "poor old pommy whingers" aren't suffering too much (apart from their grading system and weather).

There are 88 messages in this topic.