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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 41 of 148. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 440 | 441 to 460 | 461 to 480 | 481 to 500 | 501 to 520 | 521 to 540 | 541 to 560 | 561 to 580 | 581 to 600 | 601 to 620 | 621 to 640 | 641 to 660 | 661 to 680 | 681 to 700 | 701 to 720 | 721 to 740 | 741 to 760 | 761 to 780 | 781 to 800 | 801 to 820 | 821 to 840 | 841 to 860 | 861 to 880 | 881 to 900 | 901 to 920 | 921 to 940 | 941 to 960 | 961 to 980 | 981 to 1000 | 1001 to 1020 | 1021 to 1040 | 1041 to 1060 | 1061 to 1080 | 1081 to 1100 | 1101 to 1120 | 1121 to 1140 | 1141 to 1160 | 1161 to 1180 | 1181 to 1200 | 1201 to 1220 | 1221 to 1240 | 1241 to 1260 | 1261 to 1280 | 1281 to 1300 | 1301 to 1320 | 1321 to 1340 | 1341 to 1360 | 1361 to 1380 | 1381 to 1400 | 1401 to 1420 | 1421 to 1440 | 1441 to 1460 | 1461 to 1480 | 1481 to 1500 | 1501 to 1520 | 1521 to 1540 | 1541 to 1560 | 1561 to 1580 | 1581 to 1600 | 1601 to 1620 | 1621 to 1640 | 1641 to 1660 | 1661 to 1680 | 1681 to 1700 | 1701 to 1720 | 1721 to 1740 | 1741 to 1760 | 1761 to 1780 | 1781 to 1800 | 1801 to 1820 | 1821 to 1840 | 1841 to 1860 | 1861 to 1880 | 1881 to 1900 | 1901 to 1920 | 1921 to 1940 | 1941 to 1960 | 1961 to 1980 | 1981 to 2000 | 2001 to 2020 | 2021 to 2040 | 2041 to 2060 | 2061 to 2080 | 2081 to 2100 | 2101 to 2120 | 2121 to 2140 | 2141 to 2160 | 2161 to 2180 | 2181 to 2200 | 2201 to 2220 | 2221 to 2240 | 2241 to 2260 | 2261 to 2280 | 2281 to 2300 | 2301 to 2320 | 2321 to 2340 | 2341 to 2360 | 2361 to 2380 | 2381 to 2400 | 2401 to 2420 | 2421 to 2440 | 2441 to 2460 | 2461 to 2480 | 2481 to 2500 | 2501 to 2520 | 2521 to 2540 | 2541 to 2560 | 2561 to 2580 | 2581 to 2600 | 2601 to 2620 | 2621 to 2640 | 2641 to 2660 | 2661 to 2680 | 2681 to 2700 | 2701 to 2720 | 2721 to 2740 | 2741 to 2760 | 2761 to 2780 | 2781 to 2800 | 2801 to 2820 | 2821 to 2840 | 2841 to 2860 | 2861 to 2880 | 2881 to 2900 | 2901 to 2920 | 2921 to 2940 | 2941 to 2947
Author
Havachatwithhexy...

HEX
11-Mar-2005
7:55:07 PM


Bourge with-out his eye-patch on ...

http://www.climbing.apollo.lv/images/wiskas/Gollum.jpg






Hatman
11-Mar-2005
8:07:05 PM
On 11/03/2005 HEX wrote:

>>Mike: if you need help i'm quite willing - just PM me. I am an IT professional
>in real life ;)

We forum posters have real lives? What....? I better go find mine. Its stuck somewhere between my woodie and laptop!
Onsight
11-Mar-2005
10:25:05 PM
On 10/03/2005 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>Onsight
>Your contention that significant ascents are often misreported.
>As a matter of interest, got any examples?
Eddy, I’d have thought there’s no need to say more. Or are you just after goss?

Can you please explain your point in posting my comments re the Tote? I assume there was one?

On 10/03/2005 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>> Like I’ve said, it the ascent is obviously a great achievement.
>Big of you to say so.
Um…Perhaps you missed my point? There’s a big difference between an actual achievement and the reporting of it, and I believe I’ve pointed out some quite significant ways this was actually “under” reported as well. Anyway, in addition to all that, I also wanted to make some broader points about journalism/the media/the internet. I find that all quite interesting but we never really got into that discussion (ie. if someone casually posts a ‘report’ of something then it gets – perhaps unwittingly – turned in a “news” item, which then might end up in print without any fact checking, then what are the implications of all that?). I was also trying to make a comment about climbing terminology because I’ve noticed several times now that when someone starts up a thread seeking clarification re the exact meaning of terminology they seem to get shouted down with “who cares” type comments. Perhaps it’s easy to be flippant about such things until you have to report stuff to the public? (I’m not saying you were flippant, it’s a comment in general).

Anyway, thanks, sincerely, for your report. On second thoughts, on balance, it was helpful, and I made a mistake lumping it in that that other report which had so clearly missed the important points whilst exaggerating others. So my apologies for any offence caused. Cheers bro.

----------------------------------------

....meanwhile at Rock HQ it’s… “Stop the press!!!”

HEX
12-Mar-2005
12:12:05 AM
BUMP...

Topic Date User
re: snow flurries in argus Tuesday, 4 January 2005 ,nmonteith :
>It seems like Chris Baxter himself has waded into the controversy [editorial in >latest Rock mag]... it is just another un-researched load of drivel in my opinion. >He adds nothing new and just recycles the statements from the original >anonymous source. It is hardly excellent journalism. He fails to refer to any points >I made in my detailed letter in reply to 'JT'...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12-Mar-2005
10:01:04 AM
Onsight said;
>I’ve noticed several times now that when someone starts up a thread seeking clarification re the exact meaning of terminology they seem to get shouted down with “who cares” type comments.

Since I am never likely to free anything of that grade I can relate to the 'who cares' point of view. I understand the point you are making though, but I suspect that most climbers are 'easy-going' in that they regard these achievements as awsome by any means, and not all of them are concerned with the nuances.
It probably matters most to those who count numbers and aspire to similar or better standard.

It amazes me that for the length of history the climbing culture has in guidebooks etc, that we still argue the toss on such things as pinkpoints (and such) as evidenced by debates on any climbing forum you care to point a forky stick at ('cos there are so many of them; debates that is) ...

Given that for me anything over Gd 22/3 is blerrie hard and I can't tell you the difference between Gd 24 and 25 'who cares' is valid. This does not stop me acknowledging the (awsome) achievement/s and giving credit where its due though, ... ~> so I don't think we shout the debate down.

Let the debate continue!


HEX
14-Mar-2005
2:04:23 PM
---------------------------------------


BAz piccy of Hexmiester & Roland ...

---------------------------------------

oweng
14-Mar-2005
2:34:43 PM
Did Rolands c--ky have a habit of pulling his protection out whilst he was climbing? I seem to recall reading / hearing something along that line....

Sure it would be great if he was seconding the route, but if you were leading, you would be well served to train the buggers to put gear in I recon.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Mar-2005
3:31:59 PM
Excellent archival photo H-T.
Its been years since I have seen this one but I do remember it.
Did it come out in more than one published location as I think I saw it in a book rather than a magazine (club or otherwise)?
I seem to recall that its location was at Buffalo, is this correct?
Any further details of the climb available (name, grade etc)?
Any further details available for the pic [date, photographer (BA?) etc]

Magic moment indeed.
c--ky: "Wotcha doin mate?"
Roland: "Ya sposed to be keepin lookout, not interfering!"
BA
15-Mar-2005
12:53:47 PM
The photo came out of the famous (infamous?) Classic Climbs of Australia by Joe Friend. The photo was taken when Roland was trying to free Monarch, which he eventually did, before Henry Barber visited Buffalo. One of the 'last great problems' done by an Australian climber before Henry had a chance to snaffle it. The photo was probably taken about '74 or '75.

When Roland was doing the FA of Bermuda Triangle at Araps ("thousands will perish" was the quote that accompanied the original write up), the Hexmeister unclipped one of the pieces of gear as Roland was passing the small roof on the climb. I think that Hexie (the c--katoo that is) did something similar several times to Roland. He also had a Corella and a Galah, and between the three of them there wasn't much plastic left in Roland's car, it was all nibbled away. They also had a liking for the metal/plastic bits on the end of shoe laces, even if your foot was still in the shoe!

HEX
15-Mar-2005
1:11:11 PM
A totally sexcellent contribution, BA !!! --- thanx for synthesising this groovy byte of Havachatwithhexy:-)

Luv HEX ...
..............................
JCP tangent :
>so many cool people from all over the world (good lookin too!) to hang out with and >climb with, except i woke up this morning and the keas had eaten a huge hole in my >tent- bastards! we all keep a pile of rocks next to our tent now...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Mar-2005
2:03:52 PM
Thanks for the extra detail re Hexmeister/Roland pic BA.

HEX
15-Mar-2005
2:12:47 PM
------------------------------
On 8/01/2005 HEX wrote:
>

>" OOOOiiiiii !!!!! --- don't scoff all of it !! --- I'm gunna need most
>of that to help me sleep at night, cos some of those bratz on Chockstone
>keep questioning my authority --- that pesky fly is pushing his luck...
>; and if that BLOODY HEX tells me to include, in the Autumn edition of
>Rock : the passing of Rick White ; the outcome of the great-frog-de-bolting-debate
>(Shit ! --- Hexys influence is spreading around the country faster than
>bleedin' cane-toads !!) ; and Lee Cosey's magnificent send of OzyDirect...
>I'll...I'll ! ...I swear I'll !! ... AAAARRRGGGHHH !!! "
..............................
EDITORIAL
Vale Rick White
ROCKFALL
Letters to the Editor
ROCK NEWS
Including the first *continuous* free ascent of Ozymandias Direct, round-ups of Victorian and Tasmanian summer action and eye-witness reports of the tsunami hitting Thailand’s Ton Sai
NEW CLIMBS
In Kaputar, the Blue Mountains and the Grampians
ROCK DIARY
What's on, and when
THE SHARP END
Mike Law on old age and climbing...
.................................

hehehe ! ...

--------------------------
Lord Gumtree - Newsflash
climbingjac
22/03/2004
>Afternoon, all.
>I'd like to report that last week, Steve Monks freed the last of the remaining aid pitches >on "Lord Gumtree" at Mt Buffalo. He has now officially proven it is possible to get from the >ground to the summit of that thing - without using aid.
>For those of you not familiar with the route, it's a stupidly hard multipitch... at Mt Buffalo. >Land of the hard routes. Steve has been toiling away with freeing the various pitches... >spanning a 5 year era! He is now most pleased that he never has to the bottom of the gorge >(where it starts) again!!
>Well done Steve!
>Jacqui

JCP
22/03/2004
>bloody nice work Steve- i salute you
>is there a FFA planned for the future, or is that up to someone else?

nmonteith
22/03/2004
>I think that IS the FFA. Might have to wait for the first *continuous* free ascent though...

Onsight Frillypantz will be there to keep us accurately informed:P
--------------------------



HEX
15-Mar-2005
2:42:11 PM
-----------------------------
Copperhead Road (A4+) repeated
nmonteith
17/12/2003
>Gareth Llewellin (QLD) and Shaggy (USA) repeated Malcolm Matheson's testpiece aid >route, Copperhead Road (A4) on Mt Buffalo's North Wall last week. The crux pitch is >50m+ of very dicy hook and bad copperhead (mashie) placements with only a few bits >of good gear along the way. Gareth described being six sky hooks out from a string of >mashies and having to trust very small and insecure mashies in an overhang to >continue. This is a very bold ascent with possible 30m+ fall potenital most of the way >up the climb. The route is considered one of the hardest and most dangeorus in the >country...

There is also a route, reported as grade M9 , by Rick I think , lurking somewhere in QLD...
-----------------------------

nmonteith
15-Mar-2005
2:48:05 PM
Rick's route was on Mt Maroon - i remember hearing that it had been free climbed at grade 26 - possibly by Hoskins?
gfdonc
Online Now
15-Mar-2005
4:26:20 PM
On a sobering note (always a good think for Hexies corner) I was saddened to hear on the weekend that Chris Baxter is not well, he is beginning his second course of chemo this week after recovering from weight loss and a bout of pneumonia brought on by the first round of chemo.
I hope all Chockstoners will join me in wishing him a speedy recovery.
- Steve


IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Mar-2005
4:38:28 PM
Yeah, I'll second that. If anyone is visiting him please wish him a speedy recovery.
Thanks for letting us know gfdonc.

PN
15-Mar-2005
5:00:15 PM
There have been a few comments about this. Of course Hexolottle has gone and put his big, fat, hairy hoof in it again, like he was trying to stamp out a flaming turd on the doorstep.

Chris is a legend, best wishes to him and his family

Hexshee, git back in ya kennel, gon, git back, giddouttathere, git back, gon, dony'allcomebackere y'hear, sidownanshaddap pup!


HEX
15-Mar-2005
5:51:48 PM
----------------------------------
>THE SHARP END
>Mike Law on old age and climbing...

Miklz been vwery qwiet lately, not many posts coming from his office ... hopefully he hasn't died, fallen-in & been swept, down and around his-cyber-S-bend ...


...........................................

Anyone got any (good) news on Bryden Allen's recovery ? ...

---------------------------------



HEX
15-Mar-2005
6:42:31 PM
--------------------------------
manacubus
15/03/2005
>Definitely ditch the M grade. A grade all the way. I certainly don't prescribe to the M >system in my guidebooks (Glasshouse Mountains Guide, for example). Let's see if we >can pull our collective arses out of the dark ages...

I dunno, CubeArse ... the aus' free system has ~35 numbers to choose from, an' no-onez sayin' that,thatz too many ... still enuf ' room' between them to distinguish&differentiate the grades, eh ... same with the M(Mechanical) grades ... ~8 is a good amount to d&d , especially when ya consider that the yanky 'A' system is quite often sub-divided by adding a + , to give ya ~8 anyway ...
----------------------------

manacubus
15-Mar-2005
6:47:56 PM
Why bother? Why not just get with the program?

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There are 2947 messages in this topic.

 

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