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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 22 of 148. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 440 | 441 to 460 | 461 to 480 | 481 to 500 | 501 to 520 | 521 to 540 | 541 to 560 | 561 to 580 | 581 to 600 | 601 to 620 | 621 to 640 | 641 to 660 | 661 to 680 | 681 to 700 | 701 to 720 | 721 to 740 | 741 to 760 | 761 to 780 | 781 to 800 | 801 to 820 | 821 to 840 | 841 to 860 | 861 to 880 | 881 to 900 | 901 to 920 | 921 to 940 | 941 to 960 | 961 to 980 | 981 to 1000 | 1001 to 1020 | 1021 to 1040 | 1041 to 1060 | 1061 to 1080 | 1081 to 1100 | 1101 to 1120 | 1121 to 1140 | 1141 to 1160 | 1161 to 1180 | 1181 to 1200 | 1201 to 1220 | 1221 to 1240 | 1241 to 1260 | 1261 to 1280 | 1281 to 1300 | 1301 to 1320 | 1321 to 1340 | 1341 to 1360 | 1361 to 1380 | 1381 to 1400 | 1401 to 1420 | 1421 to 1440 | 1441 to 1460 | 1461 to 1480 | 1481 to 1500 | 1501 to 1520 | 1521 to 1540 | 1541 to 1560 | 1561 to 1580 | 1581 to 1600 | 1601 to 1620 | 1621 to 1640 | 1641 to 1660 | 1661 to 1680 | 1681 to 1700 | 1701 to 1720 | 1721 to 1740 | 1741 to 1760 | 1761 to 1780 | 1781 to 1800 | 1801 to 1820 | 1821 to 1840 | 1841 to 1860 | 1861 to 1880 | 1881 to 1900 | 1901 to 1920 | 1921 to 1940 | 1941 to 1960 | 1961 to 1980 | 1981 to 2000 | 2001 to 2020 | 2021 to 2040 | 2041 to 2060 | 2061 to 2080 | 2081 to 2100 | 2101 to 2120 | 2121 to 2140 | 2141 to 2160 | 2161 to 2180 | 2181 to 2200 | 2201 to 2220 | 2221 to 2240 | 2241 to 2260 | 2261 to 2280 | 2281 to 2300 | 2301 to 2320 | 2321 to 2340 | 2341 to 2360 | 2361 to 2380 | 2381 to 2400 | 2401 to 2420 | 2421 to 2440 | 2441 to 2460 | 2461 to 2480 | 2481 to 2500 | 2501 to 2520 | 2521 to 2540 | 2541 to 2560 | 2561 to 2580 | 2581 to 2600 | 2601 to 2620 | 2621 to 2640 | 2641 to 2660 | 2661 to 2680 | 2681 to 2700 | 2701 to 2720 | 2721 to 2740 | 2741 to 2760 | 2761 to 2780 | 2781 to 2800 | 2801 to 2820 | 2821 to 2840 | 2841 to 2860 | 2861 to 2880 | 2881 to 2900 | 2901 to 2920 | 2921 to 2940 | 2941 to 2947
Author
Havachatwithhexy...

HEX
29-Nov-2004
2:37:02 PM
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" F@#$%&*HELL !!!, HEXY !!! --- Ya know you're involved with a chart-toppin' thread when ' the establishment ' starts doin' things like that !!! ---Nicebittacyberstealth there, Mike... I approve of that !! --- Nevermind the bollocks, Hexy --- just rememba :

Too many people had the suss !
Too many people support us !!
An un-lim-it-ed amount ...
Too many outlets in an out !!!
WHO ??!!
Havachatwithhexy !!!
Havachatwithhexy !!!
Havachatwithhexy !!! ...

Awwwwwgaaawwd !! --- F@#$THIS...--- I'm goin'downth'pub ! --- commizeratin' is OK, but I'm sure they'd prefer us to be CELEBRATING great-lives-lived !!! ..."

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HEX
30-Nov-2004
1:50:11 PM
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From the Craglettes web-site (and composed by the same legend who trashed the pure/spectacular Sky Rocket Buttress, on Hobart's Organ Pipes, with a mega-u-bolted-etc,etc,etc ...
...........................
'...Areas with Special Status
This tends to be contentious! Sometimes people will complain after a bolted route has been put up that such-and-such a cliff should have been left bolt free. Pretty pointless whingeing then! The important issue here is consensus among the wider climbing community. It's not something defined by an individual. For instance, personally I think some great bolted climbs could be added at Ben Lomond; I'm not going to do any though as the consensus appears to be to leave the place bolt free. So what is the current consensus?

Area: Current Attitudes:
Ben Lomond Cliffs No bolts on climbs (although bolted rappels can be added)
"Established" Wilderness cliffs (eg Frenchmans, Geryon, Federation, PB) Things are a little vague here. I know Geryon already has bolts and I think Frenchmans may have too (?) so presumably a bolting precedent is established. It's also true though that these cliffs, especially Federation and PB, have a strong "adventure climbing" tradition which should be respected.
Wilderness crags with no previous climbing If you're the first to climb at any cliff then climbers aren't going to complain about placeing fixed anchors.
The rest (ie almost all the popular or accessible cliffs in the state) Fixed anchors on new routes are OK (but follow the usual guidelines). National Parks deserve a mention as, in some, the managers have taken a hard line interpretation of the national parks act and descibe bolting as illegal. This is contrary to long established tradition and tends to be ignored by climbers. Keep a low profile.

A recent example of bitching over this issue followed Sam and Stefan's climb "The Saphire Rose" at Fingal (incidentally, one of the State's best routes). Apparently, Robert McMahon thinks Fingal should have been left bolt-free, and has poured a fair amount of vitriol onto the pages of "Rock" magazine to that effect. Irrespective of the bolt versus no bolt arguments the fact is that Fingal never had a no bolting ethic; certainly not one that had any wide understanding in the climbing community...'
.......................
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Hexyz view :

FROG BUTTRESS DE-BOLTED ??!! --- It ain't gunna happen and shouldn't happen ...

Rock climbing at Ben Lomond goes back to the 1960s and yet ALL the climbs still remain bolt-free --- itz time this place got Australia-wide recognition as the nation's # 1, wigglies-only-destination...

Frog,however, has become, over-time,by design&default, a classic mix of all styles ...
It is important to note that plenty of fixed-pegs and 'cleaning' of rock was part of the 1970s golden-age --- not as ' pure ' as some would rem-in-iss ... ; Apparently Australia's first 23 was put-up @ Frog, by Henry Barber, only to have it down-graded , a grade or two , after some ' loose rock ' was removed from the corner, by some over-zealous locals... ; Many of the corners at Frog appear to be ' fused --- the reality is that there is quite often a finger-size crack hidden behind a thin veneer of trachtite/whatever, which smooths-out the back of the corner --- this is what consistuted the ' loose rock ' that was hammered-out after Henry's ascent ...

Aid-routes, pin-scarz, THAT sebco-drill on BCT,and of course THAT bolt on Yoddle-up-the-Valley ... Thatz all part of the rich heritage that makes Frog the all-round-great-crag that it is today...

Debrillia , Imamop , Whistling Kite --- Frog can accommodate&assimilate them all ...

De-bolting Frog Buttress will achieve nothing except insulting the neo-styles of the '80s & '90s , which blend in very well by not messing with the integrity of the classic crack-climbs ...

A 1980s Rob Star-chef-ski quote : " Comparing Frog Buttress to Ben Lomond is like comparing a Malvern Star push-bike to a BMW motor-cycle "...

Now, just what did he mean ? ...

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Phil Box
30-Nov-2004
4:28:42 PM
"A 1980s Rob Star-chef-ski quote : " Comparing Frog Buttress to Ben Lomond is like comparing a Malvern Star push-bike to a BMW motor-cycle "..."

Nice quote hexy, excellent summation too on the Frog debolting issue. I agree, debolting Frog aint gunna happen.

As for comparing Frog and the Ben I would go further to lay claim that they should not be compared. Yes they are both crack destinations. Frog has a ready consumer feel about it whereas Ben Lomond is definitely an adventure crag extraordinaire. Frog appeals to the masses somewhat whereas Ben is where one goes to feel out there on soaring crack multi pitch lines. They both have their own character.

Note that all of the above is an opinion from someone who loves to climb, doesn`t really matter where it is or what sort of climbing it is, I enjoy it all. As I`ve said before I haven`t met a climb yet that I didn`t enjoy. If I`m going up I am in heaven, just let me at it. It`s the rapping over the edge that I hate, brrrr, shivers down my spine every time I have to head over that first bit of a rap. Once I`m on the rope proper I`m fine with it. Just don`t ask me to take a swing or heaven forbid, fall.

HEX
30-Nov-2004
6:35:29 PM
----------------------------
On 30/11/2004 Phil Box wrote :
>Nice quote hexy, excellent summation too on the Frog debolting issue...

On 30/11/2004 WM wrote :
>...Would be quite revealing IMO, and would probably encourage 'good' posts. (Either that >or Hex will open a million accounts and vote himself to the top of the list all the >time...)

Philby --- thanx fa voting Hexy to the top of the pops again ! , hehehe ...

WM --- good idea ,dude ! ,re : ' encourage 'good' posts --- I look4ward to Damo/bourge sluggin' it out with Elmo ...

Now, Philby --- re :
>It`s the rapping over the edge that I hate, brrrr, shivers down my spine every time I >have to head over that first bit of a rap. Once I`m on the rope proper I`m fine with it.

It amazes me that people do (and are taught to do this !) --- walking back-wards over the edge of a cliff, (to get established on the rope-proper/easy-slide-down), only puts ya teeth at risk if ya feet slip-out from under ya --- much better to grovel on ya guts until ya get past the cliff-edge --- not very ass-thetic, but a lot easier on dabrain ...

Luv HEX ...
-----------------------------

HEX
30-Nov-2004
7:10:31 PM
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Can we retro-vote ?? --- I luuuuuuv this one...

Topic Date User
Havachatwithhexy... Thursday, 14 October, 2004, bourge de menteur :

>Damos, Damo, Damien? Damietta? Wanker!! Earth to....

>Hex is overdue for a serious pasting! I think it's time fo you to reincarnate under a >different guise and supply said pasting before Hex's ego-driven fairy land engulfs us all !!!
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BUMP~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


oweng
1-Dec-2004
7:57:28 AM
Exciting times for Ben Lomond fans. The tassie trad 'super-crag' will be unmasked early next year witht he publication of Bob and Gerry's new guidebook. Yum.

No doubt filled with interesting history pieces, and (hopefully) a succinct summation of the bolt-free status of the ben.

Phil Box
1-Dec-2004
10:19:16 AM
Hex wrote with much perspicacity.
"It amazes me that people do (and are taught to do this !) --- walking back-wards over the edge of a cliff, (to get established on the rope-proper/easy-slide-down), only puts ya teeth at risk if ya feet slip-out from under ya --- much better to grovel on ya guts until ya get past the cliff-edge --- not very ass-thetic, but a lot easier on dabrain ..."

Couldn`t agree more. I am part of the grovel brigade. I also teach new climbers and abseilers that there is no shame in grovelling over the edge. I teach them to either grovel somewhat or do a bit of a downclimb type thing paying attention to both their feet and their rope hand.

PN
1-Dec-2004
3:16:02 PM
Merry Christmas all!

Love Damey and the Hoff



dalai
Online Now
1-Dec-2004
9:23:52 PM


Happy Birthday Hex...
James
2-Dec-2004
7:44:43 PM
right on hex. if you listen to certain of the boonaahh-(b)ar-flys* the biggest problem with Frog is there's no lichen on the rock anymore!!

>we're so pretty, oh so pretty, we're...............

*hex gets another vote if he can guess which 'fly...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
true phil, re the orchids, but the above still stands re lichen.....seen any pics of Frog from way back when hexie was a knee-high to a
>GRASSHOPPER??

Phil Box
2-Dec-2004
8:19:12 PM
It`s not that there isn`t any lichen on the rock anymore (smatter fact there is still plenty of lichen on the rocks there), it is that Orchid Alley is completely denuded of, well, orchids.

HEX
4-Dec-2004
4:27:53 PM
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~BUMP...
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SHIVLING ( ' God Shiva's Penis '... ; 6,500+ metres ; Indian Himalayaz )

Rick climbed the East Ridge/Pillar (left skyline) in 1981, with GregC, GeorgesB , DougS.............DonW...?...

****************************************************************



http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=943295#943295
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HEX
4-Dec-2004
6:10:53 PM
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jackie, The Future !! , 24/11/2004 :

>On 24/11/2004 shaggy wrote:
>>Hey Jackie, Have you been watching too much Star trek??
>What Shag-sta you mean to say these funky devices exist? Madness..!

Dalai --- Thanx for the cyber-cake ... Buuuuuurrrrppp !!! ... now here's a prezzyfromHexy to keep you climbing in your dotage ...

http://www.gekkomat.de
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elmo_lives
4-Dec-2004
7:46:55 PM
itll change aid climbing as we know it!
all you have to do is find a wall that is perfectly flat and smooth

HEX
5-Dec-2004
6:29:24 PM
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In the rush to get Rock-mag, http://www.rock.com.au , into the xmas-stockings, Rick won't get a mention until April 2005 ...

Topic Date User
Rock, not the final issue? Wednesday, 21 July 2004 , manacubus :

>Due to the online revolution, print magazines will never again be a source of current >news or information. Everything breaks on the web first. Magazines can only seek to >play “catch up and compile”, presenting so-called current events from the period >everyone has already moved past. There is no need for editors anymore, filtering what >comes out of the horse’s mouth and sanitizing content for mass-consumption. I’ll put >up with spelling errors and Hex’s compulsion to use long strings of full stops if it >means I don’t have to listen to anything coming out of the Baxter-filter.

>Online all the way

Right-on, Cube-arse !!! ...
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HEX
5-Dec-2004
6:34:42 PM
-------------------------------
This post is currently under construction --- please be patient --- thanx ...
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HEX
10-Dec-2004
8:33:23 PM
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IN THE INTERIM ...

RIP guitarist Darrell " Dimebag " Abbott , who providead the awesome-speed-metal-thrash sound-track for many-a-1990s, frenetic-sport-climbing experience ...



" HEAVY-DUDE-HEXYYYY !!! ..."

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HEX
11-Dec-2004
10:24:44 AM
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Author
Psycho Rob (Qurank.com)
Posts: 1300
(9/12/04 )
>Since I am too controversial a member and what I post is always wrong, I will >not post here again. Hope this keeps everyone happy.
>Rob

Dear Psycho Rob --- head across the cyber-borders , dude !! --- this is the thread for you !!! ...

Luv HEX ...
--------------------------------
Dave C
11-Dec-2004
10:28:49 AM
What you doing on here on a Saturday morning dude! You should be out climbing.
PS As it's the middle of a freezing Friday night here I've got an excuse.

HEX
11-Dec-2004
10:38:32 AM
Just got back, dude !!! --- summer-sunrise-climbing is the go , bro !! ...

Luv Hex, Dimebag & Psycho Rob ...

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