Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Aid climbing - Classic climbs of Australia
Davedave
30-Jan-2019
7:44:38 AM
Looking for advice for classic and/or trade aid routes in Australia. Rope aid solo'd Ozy Direct last month which was quite nice, and looking for other objectives in the aid/big wall realm before I head back for my second trip to yosemite later this year. Would prefer more moderate grades (ie C1-3), and steep for easier soloing, but obviously beggars can't be choosers.

Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether it goes clean?).

Dave

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30-Jan-2019
11:06:54 AM
On 30-Jan-2019 Davedave wrote:
>Looking for advice for classic and/or trade aid routes in Australia. Rope
>aid solo'd Ozy Direct last month which was quite nice, and looking for
>other objectives in the aid/big wall realm before I head back for my second
>trip to yosemite later this year. Would prefer more moderate grades (ie
>C1-3), and steep for easier soloing, but obviously beggars can't be choosers.
>
>Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether
>it goes clean?).
>
>Dave

Lots of routes out there... A couple that are highly regarded are Passport to Insanity, and 7th Pillar - in the Grampians.

In my opinion a route doesnít need to be strictly an aid route to be done clean aid style. Anything you canít get up otherwise is a candidate!

Re Totem; I havenít done it, but Iíd have no qualms about clean aiding its original aid route; though Iíd expect it to be harder than C3, even with modern gear like hand placed Peckers etc.
simey
30-Jan-2019
5:57:30 PM
On 30-Jan-2019 Davedave wrote:
>Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether
>it goes clean?).

I reckon it would be pretty demanding going clean, but I am no expert. Maybe the Gallegos Variant at the start could be a better approach (what is effectively now Deep Play to the ledge). At least most of the bolts on the Totem Pole you can trust.
kieranl
31-Jan-2019
6:00:38 AM
Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.
GoUp!
31-Jan-2019
6:26:01 AM
'Classic'....I guess this depends on what attributes one associates with such a description!

Surely one or several of the aid routes forcing their way up Dogface would qualify....iconic wall, notorious rock conditions, first ascents by the legend Ewbank himself! The names themselves are epic....Gigantor, Colossus, Titan, Giant, Gargantuan, Leviathan, Goliath etc etc etc

For something bigger and more modern....what about Big Glassy or Big Glassy Corner deep in the Wolgan?

phillipivan
1-Feb-2019
5:08:07 AM
On 31-Jan-2019 kieranl wrote:
>Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.

Did you ever get up that?
kieranl
1-Feb-2019
6:27:52 AM
On 1-Feb-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>On 31-Jan-2019 kieranl wrote:
>>Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.
>
>Did you ever get up that?

No. Don't think my back will cope with that sort of thing any more.
gfdonc
1-Feb-2019
6:43:40 AM
If anyone is going to do Melanoma, let me know - I'd love to take photos.
davedave
8-Jul-2019
12:23:29 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. For some reason a friend seems keen on big glassy, but from the crag description it looks like a nailing route ? Would anyone with direct experience know if this is still the case and the suggested pin rack or whether it helps to have any specialised kit for clean aid trickery.

Macciza
8-Jul-2019
5:47:18 PM
Been down there a couple of times ...
Fever, the left corner, would be ok for the first few pitches, from memory... they also go free so worst case is pulling s few moves here and there ... then rap off before it gets too weird...
GreatUntoothed/Big Glassy Corner ... dame deal .. first 4 or so pitches are lovely climbing on pretty good rock ... was quite disappointing how good the first time there ... Rap from bolts below dodgy clay/shale section to tree sticking out of wall and again to base to get off ...
Or try Gigantor on DogFace ... same deal ... god clean with the odd free move here and there, quality rock with pretty good gear for the most part ... goes completely free if needed ...
Hope that helps ...

superstu
8-Jul-2019
6:50:50 PM
Lord Gumtree was/is another popular aid trade route.

Is the Beerwah Bolt Route still a thing? I remember it being frightening rusting mank in the 90s.

Everybody I know who has been aiding down the Wolgan has nightmares.
There are three accounts of climbing Big Glassy here:
http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/confluence/display/nswrock/Wolgan+Stories

Macciza
10-Jul-2019
7:45:13 AM
On 8-Jul-2019 superstu wrote:

>Everybody I know who has been aiding down the Wolgan has nightmares.

Hmmm I donít... not for the aiding ... but I suppose I used to smoke a lot of pot ...

We we actually somewhat disappointed at just how good the rock was there ... it was supposed to be ĎDogFace on Drugsí ... and having done both I can safely say it wasnít ...
davedave
10-Jul-2019
7:59:38 AM
Yes, the beerwah bolt ladder is still quite climable at about C1+-ish (depending whether you think some of those bolts would realistically hold a fall. Quite a nice solo as you can do it in two pitches.

Watching the video of HB describing a fall above BG as likely to zipper the gear and fall/penji into the side of big grassy on his IAD solo of ozy direct and lord gumtree was enough to put me off getting on LG.

Pat
12-Jul-2019
5:44:55 PM
Clouded Queen at Buffalo - how about the Ogive at Bundaleer?
geoff.l
15-Jul-2019
6:21:58 AM
Clouded Queen, definitely a wise choice , It would be good for someone to dust the cobwebs off that one. I have a detailed topo if your keen.

Macciza
15-Jul-2019
7:27:39 PM
Iíd be keen on the topo for future reference...
Stevea
18-Jul-2019
2:45:53 AM
Macciza,

Just happened on this thread and wondered if you ever came across Huntsman Spiders while climbing Dog Face? I will never forget leading the crux pitch on Goliath with John Ewbank when a really big Huntsman came out of the expanding flake. I was far more scared of the spider than the expanding/hollow flake!

Macciza
18-Jul-2019
4:25:47 PM
Haha ... none that spring to mind off the top of the head ... but thatís not to say I donít have suppressed memories...
I do recall a free attempt at Goliath that was quite memorable... avoided a funny nasty fall down low, but eventually had to resort to some aid to get to belay ledge... pretty shocking final free moves to a belay which I couldnít actually spot had me instead lowering off a single large wire before the ledge ... a good call as the rope only just got me back to the ground... might have to head back for the wire sometime..
Cheers

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints