General Climbing Discussion

Author	"New" tricks for old dogs
ChuckNorris 1-Jul-2016 10:22:21 PM	On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >On 1/07/2016 stugang wrote: >>Funny you should say that as I was thinking of necromancing the Fukwit >>Of The Week Award after midweek session at Burnley this week. > >Do it, I'm sure its way better material than Goatse. Goatse wasn't a fukwit, >just dumber than shit, but you can't expect too much from a goat. "Gostse" wtf you gave it "un petit nom d'amour". Sicko.
One Day Hero 1-Jul-2016 10:41:28 PM	Jesus. First you publicly admit to being a legal pom (aren't you half ruski too?), and now you're on here getting all fancy with some kind of frenchy talk. Next thing you'll be telling us you aren't voting Rise Up Australia tomorrow.
Wendy 2-Jul-2016 9:15:28 AM	On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >I haven't changed much of what I do, because nothing particularly useful >has been invented in the 20 years I've been climbing. > >-Daisy chains/pas things are for uni-club goobers, and always have been > >-All the jizzing on about rigging belays has been going forever, and nothing >has changed. If anything, I take less care with equalisation (now that >its been proven not to work), and more care with not falling back onto >the belay (but I never did factor 2 much anyway). Just do whatever you >do faster and with less faff, simple! > >-Grigri, atc, whatever. If my partner sucks and spends half the day hanging >on the rope, I wish I brought an autolock. If they are awesome and stroll >everything, I wish I brought the atc. There is no right answer. > >-The main trick I've learned is to look better than you are by having >shit wired. I used to see hardmen (e.g. Fants and Mikl) fly up hardish >things without resting, getting the gear right first time every time. My >response at the time was "gee, I wish I had the skills to read routes that >quickly"......now I know, just climb the bloody thing twenty times, put >the #3 wire in the same spot you always put the #3 wire. > >-Comfort and convenience makes you go soft. Eventually we'll all go soft, >but I try to sleep in the dirt and do uncomfortable things to delay the >inevitable. > Damo, shouldn't you be toughening yourself up in the remote Kimberly right now not pissing on on Chockstone from central heating at home? Actually, you are getting are food drop. You are soft. Real walkers carry all their own stuff :). You should try a cinch. It is the right answer. Easy to feed if the climber is cruising, easy to hold if they are dogging. The climbing world is already full of talentless, non gaycentric derogatory term climbers. Has been for years. Professional (or at least good and practical) instruction doesn't change that. What it does change is providing people with a basis of skills and grounds for developing judgement far more efficiently than the bumble through approach.
simey 2-Jul-2016 10:46:14 AM	On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >On 29/06/2016 technogeekery wrote: >>I'm a big believer in >>paying qualified people for good advice / instruction. > >The older and crustier I get, the more this idea annoys me. A lot of the >skills needed in climbing seem to be based on problem solving and judgement. >Can you really teach that stuff? I think that too much instruction might >just allow talentless arseclowns access to more remote locations in which >to have their accident. Quality instruction can certainly can help improve people's judgement and fast track them through years of dangerous practice and/or bumblying. Just ask a few of my ex's that I taught to lead... they will certainly tell you that I ripped into them if I thought their judgement was lacking (followed by a more calm explanation of where there was room for improvement). But I often had them leading fairly hard, fairly early... because I could see their potential. Conversely there have been plenty of people whose climbing ambitions I have had to rein in because their ability and judgement simply wasn't yet at a level to try particular climbs. How many climbers have come unstuck by going for it when perhaps they shouldn't have? Why wait for that to happen? A good instructor can point out a lot of pitfalls in someone's approach and demonstrate where their focus should lie. They can also point out what new tricks of the trade are genuinely worthwhile and what is pure arseclownery.
One Day Hero 2-Jul-2016 12:55:04 PM	Mentzy, selection bias is a real thing. Have there been any girlfriends who you refused to teach based on total lack of aptitude? I'm not arguing that mentoring is a bad idea, but who the hell can afford to pay (I mean pay with money) a mentor for the hundreds of hours it takes?
One Day Hero 2-Jul-2016 1:04:50 PM	On 2/07/2016 Wendy wrote: >You should try a cinch. It is the right answer. I don't rate them that much, half as good as a gri gri and only a little bit lighter. >The climbing world is already full of talentless, non gaycentric derogatory >term climbers. Has been for years. I disagree. Many of them are as full-blown gaycentric-derogatory-term as it gets. >What it does change is providing people >with a basis of skills and grounds for developing judgement far more efficiently >than the bumble through approach. What are you basing that statement on? The fact that it sounds like it should be right?
rocksinmyhead 2-Jul-2016 4:37:11 PM	On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: > I think that too much instruction might just allow talentless arseclowns access to more remote locations in which to have their accident. Ok, but assuming your typical talentless arseclown* is going to fail self assessment of skills/experience/ability versus objective anyway, why would you want you want to them to add complete cluelessness to their skillset? * - and yes, I may have some, ahem, "personal" experience
One Day Hero 2-Jul-2016 5:02:57 PM	On 2/07/2016 rocksinmyhead wrote: >Ok, but assuming your typical talentless arseclown* is going to fail self >assessment of skills/experience/ability versus objective anyway, why would >you want you want to them to add complete cluelessness to their skillset? > Basically so they have a minor epic, freak out, and quit. If the sole aim is to reduce total accidents rather than accidents/participant hr, then getting the high liability folks out of the sport is a legit safety measure. No idea if this actually works......but heckling people till they quit in disgust is the kind of safety initiative I think I'd be good at :)
rocksinmyhead 2-Jul-2016 5:47:54 PM	It's got potential. And I guess if you can heckle at them mid-epic it'd be highly effective and really increase your hit rate. It's reassuring to know that next time I'm spending two hours trying to climb my abseil rope after retreating from Grey Mist, the lunatic yelling "Oh my God, why didn't you use a rope protector, it's starting to wear through, you're going to die!!!!!" is really just trying to help.....
One Day Hero 2-Jul-2016 6:30:25 PM	On 2/07/2016 rocksinmyhead wrote: >It's reassuring to know that next time I'm spending two hours trying to >climb my abseil rope after retreating from Grey Mist......... Hmmm, if there's going to be a next time, the whole thing isn't working as planned. I should be fully honest about my idea. Getting the "high risk of splatting people" out of climbing actually reduces accidents/participant hr as well. My broader plan is to reduce total accidents by just getting people out of climbing generally.
rocksinmyhead 2-Jul-2016 7:25:35 PM	On 2/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >Hmmm, if there's going to be a next time, the whole thing isn't working >as planned. Sorry, I didn't mean to discourage you, but persistence may be required. Deluded talentless arseclowns can have frustratingly thick skins.... >My broader plan is to reduce total accidents by just getting people out >of climbing generally. +1 Can you please start with Sundays?
ChuckNorris 3-Jul-2016 5:51:37 PM	On 1/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >On 1/07/2016 stugang wrote: >>Funny you should say that as I was thinking of necromancing the Fukwit >>Of The Week Award after midweek session at Burnley this week. > >Do it, I'm sure its way better material than Goatse. Goatse wasn't a fukwit, >just dumber than shit, but you can't expect too much from a goat. The fukwit of the week thread has been locked!!!!! Shame on you mods.ill post here instead.
ChuckNorris 3-Jul-2016 5:56:42 PM	Here goes Wednesday night quick session at burnley. The first hint of fukwitdom was two guys hogging the vertical wall doing all hold circuits in front of adoring GF. The guys would smash 5 push-ups in between grade 9 laps on a vertical wall and get all big and narcy when other punters tried to interrupt their pantomime. I tried to impose myself for a quick warm up but gave up and went to the 35 deg wall after gawping in disbelief at the two gladiators smash it out for a full 2 minutes. At least I managed a couple of laps on the 35 deg wall before the two heroes came over and dragged out the burnley crash pad to help them send their awesome burnley highball. Seriously 99% of the time there is no need for a pad at burnley - most of the time it's a fking tripping liability . Considering these dudes couldn't get their butts more than 10cm off the ground and they barely tried this was not the 1%. Adding to the comic nature was the fact that they put the mat upside down - ie. Straps up - and nearly tripped on the straps and sconned themselves on the wall after every 10 second effort. All of the above I could have forgiven but the true fukwit moment was when they decided to leave and just left the fking tripping hazard in the middle of the wall for someone else to clean up. Congratulations training dudes who's idea of a hot date is to take the gf out to watch you be a douche - you are fikwits.
One Day Hero 3-Jul-2016 11:10:11 PM	On 2/07/2016 rocksinmyhead wrote: >+1 >Can you please start with Sundays? Already on it mate, I gave Mikey and his LDS mates a pretty stern warning about not taking up space at the crags on Sundays. In fact, a while back, I told him he better not show his face in climbing at all for at least 7 months......I'm pretty sure he got the picture.
One Day Hero 3-Jul-2016 11:14:35 PM	On 3/07/2016 Stugang wrote: >The guys would smash 5 push-ups in between grade 9 laps >on a vertical wall......gawping in disbelief at the two gladiators smash it out >for a full 2 minutes. Sounds a bit Crossfit. Did they have "the look"?
ajfclark 4-Jul-2016 7:26:00 AM	I'm sure he'd know if they were crossfitters. They would've told him.
phillipivan 4-Jul-2016 9:50:55 AM	Or at least had t-shirts/hoodies advertising the fact.
simey 4-Jul-2016 10:00:25 AM	On 2/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote: >Mentzy, selection bias is a real thing. Have there been any girlfriends >who you refused to teach based on total lack of aptitude? I've always been up for teaching someone how to climb, providing they genuinely want to learn. Girlfriends that just want me to take them climbing don't usually last the distance. >I'm not arguing that mentoring is a bad idea, but who the hell can afford >to pay (I mean pay with money) a mentor for the hundreds of hours it takes? I don't think it takes that long to impart a lot of knowledge in climbing. Sometimes just one climb can be enough to show someone the error of their ways and point them in the right direction. If someone need endless weeks of mentoring, they are probably never going to get it.
technogeekery 4-Jul-2016 12:35:17 PM	Guys, I blocked ODH many years ago for being a dick, and rendering his comments invisible is one of the best features of Chockstone - please don't spoil it by quoting his rants in full. Thank you.
simey 4-Jul-2016 12:49:02 PM	On 4/07/2016 technogeekery wrote: >Guys, I blocked ODH many years ago for being a dick, and rendering his >comments invisible is one of the best features of Chockstone - please don't >spoil it by quoting his rants in full. Thank you. I would have thought Chockstone would have been a pretty quiet and lonely place without ODH.

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