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General Climbing Discussion

Whipstick Gully Quarry

2:25:02 PM
Has anyone had a look at this little 'crag' in Warrendyte? I just discovered it in the new Eastern Victoria guide and as its just a few minutes from my place I think I'll go and check it out, as it supposedly a couple of half decent climbs on it.

4:43:09 PM
If you have the time, please take the digicam and grabs some shots for the guide section of this site.
11:00:29 AM
Worthwhile? The guide suggests the pub nearby as the best thing about the crag. If you can fit any of the route descriptions to actual climbing then let one of the guide book editors know, 'cause he couldn't!
2:53:42 PM
I checked out the quarry for the Eastern Districts guide update. The cliff is short (10m high), the rock is soft and greasy (mud stone) and the climbs were a bit hard to work out exactly what was what. Having not climbed any of the climbs I didn't alter the route descriptions, hence the 'excellent' climbing. The climbing could be OK but personally I thought the pub up the road was a better option.

6:36:22 PM
I went down and had a look at this afternoon. Theres not all that much to it as the above posts suggest, though a couple of the climbs might be worth trying when bored. I've got some photos of it up here: including one I've labelled all the climbs on (they seemed reasonably obvious to me using the new guide. I might have a go on it myself when bored sometime soon though.

9:17:11 AM
You gotta be desperate to climb at that place!

10:01:53 AM
Alex, thanks for taking those pics and marking the routes! I've added this page:

Are the climbs bolted?
9:29:07 PM
I know Im late to this topic but a few things you need to know if you want to climb here.

You need a permit, no permit and you get kicked off straight away(been there done that)

Its all top roping or solo, the rock will not hold a fall, pro or bolts

Dont go if there is dew or recent rain, you will round off the sharp holds on the fingery climbs

Take a tarp and carpet to stand on--as above

And finally, we went out there one weekend with a permit and ticked off the climbs in two days, its a fun place for begginers, lots of room to set up chairs and a barbie, but for the serious climber not worth the effort.
10:50:26 AM
What's with the permit business? Who from? Is it private or public land? Fill me in and I'll update the section of the guide for the next edition. Thanx in advance.

11:06:42 AM
On 31/07/2003 BA wrote:
>What's with the permit business?

See this image of the sign, by Parks Victoria and check the guide page.
5:05:08 PM
I should pull my nose out the guides that I'm working on and have a look at the rest of the Chockstone website, eh Mike?

9:22:22 AM
Bill, er, something like that. Sorry for the abrupt response, a product of doing to many things at once. The pics on that Whipstick page are Alex's if you want to use them, best ask him, though I'd doubt he'd mind.
8:44:07 PM
The permit you can obtain from Pound Bend, unfortunately they are only open on week days. There is no cost, and they assure me that if you visit once and fill it out in person, they will allow you to fax it in, in the future.

Same permit as You Yangs, maybe VVC can get there Access Officer to work out some email system. Remember though, you need a reply for the permit to be OK.

Off topic but still on permits, we were climbing Hawthorne bridge on Sunday and were asked by the City inspectors if we had permits to climb there, liability is getting to be a big issue with everyone, I think as a climbing community we may have to be more pro-active regarding this issue and go to them with a permit/disclaimer that can be emailed if anyone wishes to climb. A sign on sight can inform prospective climbers.
9:06:46 PM
>Same permit as You Yangs< Does everyone that climbs at the you yangs get a permit? I have only been there on weekends and the office has been shut every time. What are the consequences of not having one and where do you get them?
9:41:43 PM
Permits from the rangers office when they are open, if not thats there problem. In summer they tend to be around.

There are a couple of rangers there actually promoting climbing in the You Yangs, so they are pretty cool about it all

There are 15 messages in this topic.


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