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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 98
Author
Trad Climbing Club?

Miguel75
13/04/2013
8:32:05 AM
On 12/04/2013 ashfall tuff wrote:
...SNIP...
>a bit of reasonable inter-club rivalry cant be bad for pushing along the
>recreation too. i wouldnt think it a clubs domain to cut bolts tho. running
>events to encourage people to take on the trad style or climbing events
>to raise $ for rescue squads would be good.

I like your ideas ashfall, having people with skills in rescue can't be a bad thing...

In Vic there is the Vic Climbing Club and the Western Vic Climbing Club. Maybe contact the SRC and look at what's needed to set up an "affiliated" club? Contact the locals, pool your skills and enjoy climbing with friends.
pecheur
13/04/2013
9:51:07 AM
On 12/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>
>Nope, in fact even more of the cracks have been bolted in the last year.
>Pity, they were some lovely splitters. Prior to the retroing I probably
>did the only trad ascents of these in the last decade though...
>
I have to say being Victorian, my first visit to Nowra was a bit of a shock. What's with all these nice 18 m crack lines doing with 8 bolts in them?!
uwhp510
13/04/2013
10:15:49 AM
On 12/04/2013 ashfall tuff wrote:
>i wouldnt think it a clubs domain to cut bolts tho.

Depends on the club. Chopping bolts is the number one raison d'etre of DCA.

nmonteith
13/04/2013
10:45:18 AM
Would a member of this trad club be excommunicated if they clip a bolt?

nmonteith
13/04/2013
10:49:24 AM
On 13/04/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 12/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>
>>Nope, in fact even more of the cracks have been bolted in the last year.
>>Pity, they were some lovely splitters. Prior to the retroing I probably
>>did the only trad ascents of these in the last decade though...
>>
>I have to say being Victorian, my first visit to Nowra was a bit of a
>shock. What's with all these nice 18 m crack lines doing with 8 bolts
>in them?!

I'm not sure of your age and when you started climbing - but Nowra in the early 90s was kind of the punk rock of the climbing world (actually to be factual the gangster rap of the climbign world). Climbers were in many ways being deliberately provocative in bolting everything. It was the birthplace of Aussie sport climbing in the modern sense of the word (ie bolts no matter what). Interestingly many of the first routes climbed at Nowra in the late 80s were mixed or trad routes, but these were whitewashed when the younger punks moved in.
uwhp510
13/04/2013
11:02:59 AM
Funny how its now gone full circle.

Duang Daunk
13/04/2013
11:26:38 AM
On 13/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Would a member of this trad club be excommunicated if they clip a bolt?

If it was a retrobolt with an obvious trad placement nearby they would be hard pressed to justify that kind of clip, just like trying to justify placing the retrobolt.

bw
13/04/2013
3:49:01 PM
On 13/04/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 12/04/2013 ashfall tuff wrote:
>...SNIP...
>>a bit of reasonable inter-club rivalry cant be bad for pushing along
>the
>>recreation too. i wouldnt think it a clubs domain to cut bolts tho. running
>>events to encourage people to take on the trad style or climbing events
>>to raise $ for rescue squads would be good.
>
>I like your ideas ashfall, having people with skills in rescue can't be
>a bad thing...
>
>In Vic there is the Vic Climbing Club and the Western Vic Climbing Club.
>Maybe contact the SRC and look at what's needed to set up an "affiliated"
>club? Contact the locals, pool your skills and enjoy climbing with friends.

Though im not currently a member, the src doesnt really do the education thing, its more of a partner finding club with a few trips thrown in to get to know folks. I think they did organise some lead stuff through a guide outfit a year ago or so though. I agree with you, some cliff rescue sessions would be a great thing allround

JMK
13/04/2013
4:29:26 PM
Why do people need training ? Back when I started u bought the gear and gave it a go. Trial and error. Somewhat later I bought "freedom of the hills" which gave me some advice. Never needed or wanted training by guides. The difference in the early 90s was u did not have many pure sport routes. U had to learn how to place gear. If u want to do it man up, have tablespoon of concrete and just get to it. Take some responsibility.

Doug
13/04/2013
4:41:42 PM
^ Spoken like a true wannabe Beard Stroker. Many great - and humble - climbers have got started via some sort of tutelage, informal, formal or a combination of both.
If someone wants some seasoned advice, why knock them?

ashfall tuff
13/04/2013
5:02:19 PM
there could be a 101 clubs there's certainly 101 bike clubs. i know there's more bike riders than climbers but the ratio of riders to clubs is lower than climbers to clubs, do you recon? would'nt want to get to a point where we had to join a club to climb or where colours at the crag!

yeah maybe affiliated is the way forward. good to have clubs to network with

i wouldnt join a club that would excommunicate me for clipping bolts :-) i'll keep sport climbing, bouldering and the like.. tho i'd join a traddie club, because the style made climbing a sport* and i recon a club its a good step to protect the heritage.

bw
13/04/2013
5:49:23 PM
On 13/04/2013 JMK wrote:
>Why do people need training ? Back when I started u bought the gear and
>gave it a go. Trial and error. Somewhat later I bought "freedom of the
>hills" which gave me some advice. Never needed or wanted training by guides.
>The difference in the early 90s was u did not have many pure sport routes.
>U had to learn how to place gear. If u want to do it man up, have tablespoon
>of concrete and just get to it. Take some responsibility.

Kind of sounds like how i started... My leanings are more for getting together with some knowledgable types and learning and making it accessible for folks to learn something helpful in a practical setting. I can do and replicate hauls etc from books too but im humble enough to know theres lots of different ways to skin cats in various different situations. This is where experienced climbers can really help on these kind of days... For reference, im talking about club settings, as per the topic.

Ashfall tuff
13/04/2013
5:54:33 PM
you train to stay phat! no? im training cos i live in a place where's there's hundreds of climbs but no climbers. sad.

you mean traing to place gear dont you?

its about keeping people enthused about trad climbing cos most start at gym, get introduced to sport cos its easiest and not much outlay is required.. and possibly dont go on to doing full trad routes cos you dont really need to now it seems, unless your local crag is gear

Ashfall tuff
13/04/2013
6:01:19 PM
A national trad club could keep people informed and educated, training in theory, prac on ground. it can probably do all that without actually climbing as a club.

Ashfall tuff
13/04/2013
6:04:49 PM
go on JMK take some responsiblity

Miguel75
13/04/2013
6:18:16 PM
I echo Technogeekery's thoughts re a national climbing body. Not necessarily to rule the roost but to act in climbings best interests; access, bolting etc...

If you're having trouble finding partners than start self belaying; either rope solo or TR solo;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/04/2013
6:38:54 PM
On 13/04/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I echo Technogeekery's thoughts re a national climbing body. Not necessarily
>to rule the roost but to act in climbings best interests; access, bolting
>etc...

It could work, but it might need a balanced committee to represent the demographics involved?

>If you're having trouble finding partners than start self belaying; either rope solo or TR solo;)

That can work too, but for someone looking for trad experience it is a quantum leap...

Upon reflection, I realise in hindsight that most of my climbing career has been one of introducing others to climbing in order to have climbing partners. This has been due to the out of the way places I have lived and climbed (not unlike Ashfall tuff), but also because of the type of climbing that interests me most, ie adventure.
Clubs are a luxury that don't impact greatly on those out of the way/small climbing participant number locations...

This also had the spinoff effects of limiting my grades due almost always climbing with climbers of lesser addiction/ability(?) than myself; and also getting me seriously into roped soloing of routes.
Wendy
13/04/2013
6:48:55 PM
On 13/04/2013 JMK wrote:
>Why do people need training ? Back when I started u bought the gear and
>gave it a go. Trial and error. Somewhat later I bought "freedom of the
>hills" which gave me some advice. Never needed or wanted training by guides.
>The difference in the early 90s was u did not have many pure sport routes.
>U had to learn how to place gear. If u want to do it man up, have tablespoon
>of concrete and just get to it. Take some responsibility.

Strangely enough, most of the people I climb with started in that era, and we all have some shocking tales of misadventures and stupidity from it and generally agree that it's amazing we survivied our first 2 years climbing. Fortunately, I learnt some decent things somewhere along the way, but I still see plenty of people at the cliff seemingly unaware of the problems in what they are doing and the risks they are taking. Hence the value in having some basic instruction to at least get started on the right track and to have a knowledge base from which to assess other information as it is presented to you.

Someone else mention the concern about it being limited to people with money. Whilst I can see that is a bit of an issue, climbing has always been a middle class sport. Generally speaking, people in genuine, unchosen poverty, don't come into contact with climbing or envision it as a lifestyle. It's about priorities, social circles etc etc. How many of us started at Uni for example? And going to a climbing gym is expensive. What is it, $20 a casual visit? That's pretty restricting too. I don't see a collection of the genuinely impoverished flocking to gyms or sport crags either. If people are paying to go to the gym 2-3 times a week, they only need to forgo the gym for a week or 2, and they've saved enough to hire a guide as a group of 3-4 for the weekend. If you've already invested in sport gear, you've already spent most of the money you'll need to - the same shoes, harness, chalk bag, quickdraws, belay device and screw gates work fine on trad too! a set of wires and cams will come in under $400, much less if you get some second hand. by the time your 3-4 mates from the gym have also bought a bit of gear, you'll have a massive rack between you.

ashfall tuff
13/04/2013
6:55:29 PM
cheers Miguel75. was going to look at buying some new petzyl gear. the forum is doing a good job - stopping me falling out of climbing.

i dont know if things should start national its where the enthusiam lies i guess. ideally for me climbing would be bigger to find a partner nearby. i mean kaputar's like a young araps, why people arnt moving out here on masse i dont know..

have spotted a very cool boulder problem.. its a series of joined basalt hexagons on there side so every hold & footer is at the same angle, might get boring after a while tho :-)
shall post some pics of rock on crag beta soon




Miguel75
13/04/2013
7:01:26 PM
On 13/04/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 13/04/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>>I echo Technogeekery's thoughts re a national climbing body. Not necessarily
>>to rule the roost but to act in climbings best interests; access, bolting
>>etc...
>
>It could work, but it might need a balanced committee to represent the
>demographics involved?

Agreed. The right people, from all areas of climbing are essential; except Boulderers as they have small hands and smell like cabbage;)

>>If you're having trouble finding partners than start self belaying; either
>rope solo or TR solo;)
>
>That can work too, but for someone looking for trad experience it is a
>quantum leap...

True, though if you can get into self belay TR (inc. aiding) it'll at least get him out climbing and placing gear. I enjoyed my time TR aiding though the only downside (for me) was that while I learnt what placements would hold body weight, I didn't really learn what was a good placement like you would having a mentor or competent leader.

...SNIP...

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