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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
New hard route at Araps
maxdacat
9/11/2012
9:29:21 AM
On 8/11/2012 duglash wrote:
succumbed to dumb physicality.

yes - no technique was involved!

Macciza
9/11/2012
5:16:59 PM
Having been down there whilst Zac and Wiz were trying it, it was only ever referred to by it's Somalia tag so that's probably what it will end up with . . .
And DaveJ that foot move is pretty blind for Zac . . .
Which is the next move . . .
One Day Hero
9/11/2012
10:45:09 PM
I can't understand why all the bored denizens of Nati keep dragging out the same tired old hoaxes. As if there's actually a climber called Wiz Fineron!

Christ, think of something original.
crazyjohn
10/11/2012
7:43:46 AM
Wiz emailed me yesterday and after a lot of thought he has decided to name the route "Two in the Pink and One in the Stink". The name has something to do with the pockets on the route and an experience he had while hitchhiking into Horsham...
Dave J
10/11/2012
11:27:03 AM
On 10/11/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>Wiz emailed me yesterday and after a lot of thought he has decided to name
>the route "Two in the Pink and One in the Stink". The name has something
>to do with the pockets on the route and an experience he had while hitchhiking
>into Horsham...

Now there's a name I could get behind.

Along similar lines... I remember when Steve Monks freed Ozy there was a campaign for him to call it "c*nt juice", just because he could. However, traditionalist that he was, he went with the original.

[* Chockstone Moderator edit]

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/11/2012
2:48:56 PM
On 10/11/2012 Dave J wrote:
>Along similar lines... I remember when Steve Monks freed Ozy there was
>a campaign for him to call it "c*nt juice", just because he could. However,
>traditionalist that he was, he went with the original.
>
>[* Chockstone Moderator edit]


?
I always thought that the first ascentionist / team named the route regardless of the style that it was put up, however a variation to the route may involve a different name for the specific variant section.

A change in ascent style does not afford renaming rights as far as I am aware.

I would suggest that Steve Monks being the traditionalist you quote him as being, resisted such nonsense as renaming a route because it was freed because he is a traditionalist!

The ideology that you propose would amount to a guide-book writers nightmare!
Dave J
10/11/2012
5:06:24 PM
On 10/11/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>A change in ascent style does not afford renaming rights as far as I am
>aware.

I think there are plenty of cases where the route has been given a new name once its been freed. "Sheffield Steal" springs to mind (and its not even properly free!).

In much of europe the person who chips/glues and bolts a line gets to name it though the actual ascent may not come for years.

>I would suggest that Steve Monks being the traditionalist you quote him
>as being, resisted such nonsense as renaming a route because it was freed
>because he is a traditionalist!

He was probably just afraid of the *mods.
>
>The ideology that you propose would amount to a guide-book writers nightmare!
Not if the guide book writers just stuck to documenting free routes.

>☺
BA
10/11/2012
5:25:19 PM
On 10/11/2012 Dave J wrote:
.
>
>I think there are plenty of cases where the route has been given a new
>name once its been freed. "Sheffield Steal" springs to mind (and its not
>even properly free!).

>>I would suggest that Steve Monks being the traditionalist you quote him
>>as being, resisted such nonsense as renaming a route because it was freed
>>because he is a traditionalist!

In the UK it wasn't unusual to rename "freed" routes and Steve was unaware of the Oz 'tradition' of leaving route names as they were. I still think "Sheffield Steal" is a great route name, far better than "Bristol Steal" or "Lakes Steal".

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/11/2012
8:52:19 PM
On 10/11/2012 Dave J wrote:
>I think there are plenty of cases where the route has been given a new
>name once its been freed. "Sheffield Steal" springs to mind (and its not
>even properly free!).
>
In Australia?
(Refer shades of BA post above!)

>In much of europe the person who chips/glues and bolts a line gets to
>name it though the actual ascent may not come for years.

An interesting concept, which begs the question, does a retro-bolter get to rename a route if it is retro'd?
Heh, heh, heh.

>(snip)
>>guide book writers nightmare!
>Not if the guide book writers just stuck to documenting free routes.

Sorry, but the precedent has already been set in our land of dirt by sea!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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