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Climb Quality - how do you rate it?

kieranl

11-Sep-2012
12:17:58 PM

Just saw someone's comment about Muldoon on The Crag "having been up this route a few times, I don't see what the stars are for?".
The thing is, they're not wrong because quality is a subjective view, but I wonder why they're not impressed with that climb yet I still am after several decades climbing (setting aside that I am a total gumby).
What is it that actually makes a quality climb?

Hugh

11-Sep-2012
12:30:44 PM

Perhaps because it doesn't have any ring bolts...? ;-) (Well apart from the rap)

It seems that most routes get a star for good sequences, a star for protection and a third if it gets a little run out or exposed... Anyone else agree?


Eduardo Slabofvic

11-Sep-2012
12:38:43 PM

The false consciousness of the guide book writer determines the number of stars


Phil S

11-Sep-2012
12:45:10 PM

Simeys false consciousness... don't tell all the girls lined up out back of the cafe about this.


ajfclark

11-Sep-2012
1:02:50 PM

On 11/09/2012 Hugh wrote:
>It seems that most routes get a star for good sequences, a star for protection and a third if it gets a little run out or exposed... Anyone else agree?

One for the sandbag, one for exposure and one for the run outs. ;-)

Cam McKenzie

11-Sep-2012
1:07:05 PM

One star for quality of moves,
One star for sustainedness (awesome word)
One star to bring them all and in the darkness bind them (maybe position / exposure and rock quality)


Climboholic

11-Sep-2012
1:18:55 PM

On 11/09/2012 kieranl wrote:
>Just saw someone's comment about Muldoon on The Crag "having been up this
>route a few times, I don't see what the stars are for?".

Nonsense! Muldoon is partly responsible for getting me hooked on climbing and still one of my most memorable climbs: The cruisy jug hauling, the good protection, the airy feeling out on the arete, learning to tie slip knots in slings with one hand...

On 11/09/2012 Hugh wrote:
>Perhaps because it doesn't have any ring bolts...? ;-) (Well apart from
>the rap)

Spot on! I think that the fact that the comment was on The Crag says it all. This person is probably more interested in chalking up grades on The Crag, than the experience. (Muldoon was my first lead in Australia, so I might be a bit biased)


ajfclark

11-Sep-2012
1:29:34 PM

http://www.thecrag.com/route/12873883

First recent ascent from Jason.

Direct link: http://www.thecrag.com/ascent/218236317

kieranl

11-Sep-2012
1:31:51 PM

On 11/09/2012 Cliff D wrote:
> I couldn't find the quote in The
>Crag, you sure you got that right?
Yep. Would you like a screen shot?

*Edit* : maybe you're inadvertantly filtering stuff on The Crag.

Hugh

11-Sep-2012
1:34:13 PM

On 11/09/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>http://www.thecrag.com/route/12873883
>
>First recent ascent from Jason.

Did anyone notice he did it as a second....? :-S


ajfclark

11-Sep-2012
1:35:05 PM

Yes.

anthonycuskelly

11-Sep-2012
1:35:27 PM

Cliff, the top comment - Jason Morton: "Simon's second trad lead. Having been up this route a few times, I don't see what the stars are for?". I made a hash of Muldoon, but it's still a brilliant climb

There's a few factors that go into quality for me, that all apply differently on different days. Nice moves, good (enough) gear, a nice setting, just enough fear and excitement... and while they're not strictly related, I've noticed that the weather and choice of climbing partner make a massive difference to how good I think a climb is.

kieranl

11-Sep-2012
1:38:56 PM

On 11/09/2012 Hugh wrote:
>Did anyone notice he did it as a second....? :-S
To be fair, he says he' done it several times and looking at his list it looks like he's alternating leads with him leading the harder pitches.
And, as I said, his opinion isn't wrong, just different to mine.


davidn

11-Sep-2012
2:12:34 PM

I realise this occurs often over at 8a.nu, but surely I'm not the only one who finds it a mite creepy to read a public discussion of someone's tick/comments on a climb?

Still, I guess there's privacy settings for a reason...

kieranl

11-Sep-2012
2:16:15 PM

On 11/09/2012 davidn wrote:
>I realise this occurs often over at 8a.nu, but surely I'm not the only
>one who finds it a mite creepy to read a public discussion of someone's
>tick/comments on a climb?
>
>Still, I guess there's privacy settings for a reason...

It's actually a discussion of why people have different opinions of climb quality. Not sure why you find that creepy. (valiantly fighting, boat against the current of thread drift)


Miguel75

11-Sep-2012
2:17:27 PM

I really enjoy Muldoon though prefer Horn Piece at that grade...

I reckon varied climbing with that little bit of something different makes a climb more memorable. Take for instance Syrinx; I really enjoyed the climb and found the balconies lots of fun but absolutely loved Eskimo Nell. The climbing is easy & fun with the step across the void,the crawl behind the boulder and then the last pitch to the summit. Absolute gold...


nmonteith

11-Sep-2012
2:18:26 PM

Star for inspiration (a good looking line)
Star for perspiration (sustained)
Star for location (big views, epic exposure)
and bonus star for sensation (good moves!)

One Day Hero

11-Sep-2012
2:26:47 PM

Note that Neil has forgotten about route length and rock quality..............why am I not surprised?

Muldoon is one star at best, probably would've been worth two stars before it got slimed by all the traffic.

kieranl

11-Sep-2012
2:43:22 PM

On 11/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>Muldoon is one star at best, probably would've been worth two stars before
>it got slimed by all the traffic.
Must be doing a different climb to me. The slippery stuff in the first crack has ever been thus.


benjenga

11-Sep-2012
2:48:06 PM

On 11/09/2012 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>One star for quality of moves,
>One star for sustainedness (awesome word)
>One star to bring them all and in the darkness bind them (maybe position
>/ exposure and rock quality)

I think cam has is pretty close.
Moves, sustainedness, position/rock quality/height.

There are 111 messages in this topic.