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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
Climbers in Buffalo gorge, Mon 12 March

ajfclark
20/02/2013
2:41:44 PM
The wall left of caligula isn't completely featureless, there's a huge arching flake/line with bolts next to it. (The size of the feature is huge, not the size of the crack).

I do think it's Highway 61 though, if the photo was taken from Pulpit lookout, you wouldn't be able to see Caligula at all, would you?
kieranl
20/02/2013
2:49:19 PM
And I've changed my mind again. Thought it was the top, easy section of Caligula but it's not
Cam McKenzie
20/02/2013
2:50:15 PM
I reckon that it's not Caligula (haven't done Highway 61, so can't comment if that's it). The traverse under the roof of Caligula is longer and the crack leading up to the roof is not in a corner from memory, it's further to the right.

ajfclark
20/02/2013
3:06:14 PM
On 20/03/2012 barney800 wrote:
>Actually I don't think it is Caligua. Just got home and dug up the guidebook. It's the crack to the right of Bell Boys Bereavement, as pointed out by Ben_E. I only have the Sublime Climbs guidebook though, where this line isn't included.
>
>I don't have a wider shot, but I do have a higher resolution version if the pictured climber wants a copy.

On 20/03/2012 barney800 wrote:
>It's the top part of the route (above a nasty looking roof section) taken from the Pulpit Rock lookout.

Barney was the photog. Now, there might be some mistakes in various Buffalo Guides, but Lift Girls Lament and Bell Boys Bereavement are marked correctly on page 316 of Sublime.

In the 5th ed complete guide, page 89, the next corner to the right is Highway 61. It's a bit hard to see the features though but it looks close. Going back to looking at the pic in Sublime you can match the features in the pic at the start of the thread to those on the page.

It is Highway 61.

ajfclark
20/02/2013
3:12:18 PM
On 20/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Nah, (I agree with kieranl), it's Caligula, and you can also see the crack leading up on its lower pitch.

What led to this thread necromancy M9?
dalai
20/02/2013
3:21:53 PM
I think M9 is looking at retrobolting the line...
simey
20/02/2013
5:24:03 PM
On 20/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Nah, (I agree with kieranl), it's Caligula, and you can also see the crack
>leading up on its lower pitch.

M9, I'm afraid I have lost all respect if you thought that this was Caligula. I thought you were the oracle on all things Buffalo, particularly concerning aid. This is clearly Highway 61 (a worthless mixed route).

PS. And I would have expected better from you too Kieran!

Miguel75
20/02/2013
5:24:25 PM
If it goes on top rope you may as well whack a few bolts in. Just don't forget to round the bolt edges M9...
singersmith
20/02/2013
5:40:01 PM
Doesn't need bolts; chipping would do the job.

Miguel75
20/02/2013
5:46:48 PM
On 20/02/2013 singersmith wrote:
>Doesn't need bolts; chipping would do the job.

Chip a 20 M2 eh? I'd second that;)

Heh x 3

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
8:31:37 PM
kieranl-the-first is right, and so am I by default.
~> And by default-default all you buggers are wrong!
It is Caligula.

On 20/02/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>I do think it's Highway 61 though, if the photo was taken from Pulpit
>lookout, you wouldn't be able to see Caligula at all, would you?

Why not?
In my opinion you would be looking straight at it.

On 20/02/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>What led to this thread necromancy M9?

Sorting out the bs...
~> rolsen1 would be proud!
Heh, heh, heh.

On 20/02/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 20/02/2013 singersmith wrote:
>>Doesn't need bolts; chipping would do the job.
>
>Chip a 20 M2 eh? I'd second that;)
>
>Heh x 3

Woo hoo, Miguel75 just reached his 2,000 post milestone!! foreezajollygoodposterandallthatstuff.
~> Too bad, that you are almost on your own with that jest-opinion...
;-)

On 20/02/2013 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>the crack leading up to the roof is not in a corner from memory, it's further to the right.

Yes, I agree, and this is clearly evident in the photo provided.


Ben_E
20/02/2013
8:48:56 PM
In spite of you being the patron saint of Buffalo, I'm willing to bet my aid rack against yours that this is Highway 61, not Caligula, M9. Actually, scrap that, my aid rack is under 40 years old, so it's not a fair trade. Loser has to wax their beard. Weekly. For a year.

For starters, they were too far to the right on the wall when I saw them, and for seconds, there is a photo of sewer wall showing an exact match for the spot they are in on page 317 of the sublime climbs guide.

Someone more technologically savvy than me could do us all a favor and put this to rest by scanning the image and posting (with permission from the author and publisher, of course).

Ben_E
20/02/2013
8:58:15 PM
On 20/02/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>
>What led to this thread necromancy M9?

I think he's just trying to keep buffalo on the front page :-)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
9:19:59 PM
On 20/02/2013 Ben_E wrote:
>In spite of you being the patron saint of Buffalo,

Nah, you are wrong. This is clearly simey's title, given his last post...


>I'm willing to bet my aid rack against yours that this is Highway 61, not Caligula, M9. Actually,
>scrap that, my aid rack is under 40 years old, so it's not a fair trade.
>Loser has to wax their beard. Weekly. For a year.

My aid rack is 3 times larger than yours and you have no beard.
What kind of a wager is that other than lopsided?
Heh, heh, heh.
>
>For starters, they were too far to the right on the wall when I saw them,
>and for seconds, there is a photo of sewer wall showing an exact match
>for the spot they are in on page 317 of the sublime climbs guide.
>
>Someone more technologically savvy than me could do us all a favor and
>put this to rest by scanning the image and posting (with permission from
>the author and publisher, of course).

~> Bring it on, as this will save me doing a one-off trip up there to back up my assertions with a camera!
;-)
barney800
20/02/2013
9:57:18 PM
Here we go. Line 16 is Lift Girls Lament. Better watch out - I hear Ben has a good sideline in stealth de-bearding.


White Trash
20/02/2013
10:00:21 PM
On 20/02/2013 barney800 wrote:
>Here we go. Line 16 is Lift Girls Lament. Better watch out - I hear Ben
>has a good sideline in stealth de-bearding.
>
>



the second pic, where is the horizontal break in the original photo on it?
where did the agrippa line disappear to?

two different climbs?

Miguel75
20/02/2013
10:19:39 PM
On 20/02/2013 White Trash wrote:
...SNIP...
>the second pic, where is the horizontal break in the original photo
>on it?
>where did the agrippa line disappear to?
>
>two different climbs?

I reckon those pics are of the same climb and if the first pic were of better quality we'd be able to see the same details as the first...

Ben_E
20/02/2013
10:25:40 PM
On 20/02/2013 White Trash wrote:

>the second pic, where is the horizontal break in the original photo
>on it?
>two different climbs?

Yup. Two different climbs that can be superimposed...



Bloody hell, hope I never have to rely on you at a police line-up... The horizontal break is slightly less obvious in the image from the guidebook due to the shade. If you look at all the other major features (the blocks/chockstones to the climber's left, the shaded feature near the top of the image with the climber) then they match.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/02/2013
9:00:25 AM
On 20/02/2013 Ben_E wrote:
>>I'm willing to bet my aid rack against yours that this is Highway 61, not Caligula, M9. Actually,
>scrap that, my aid rack is under 40 years old, so it's not a fair trade.
>Loser has to wax their beard. Weekly. For a year.

On 20/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>My aid rack is 3 times larger than yours and you have no beard.
>What kind of a wager is that other than lopsided?
>Heh, heh, heh.

Hmm.
I was WRONG. (Hear that simey!, et al!).
I was wrong, so it seems I shall have to compromise and shave off my beard!
Bloody hell...
:-(

~> Impressive work with the superimposition, and thanks for clearing up that question mark.



Ok, thread summary. simey, et al, are vindicated. I am beardless, and kieranl is still sorting out who he is...
Where to from here, apart from climbing the route and trying to win back simey's respect?
Heh, heh, heh.
ithomas
21/02/2013
9:52:02 AM
It's not Caligula. It is almost certainly Highway 61. When that route was climbed (by me, Keith Bell and John Fantini sometime in the Pleistocene) we freed easily up to the nasty, dirty and wet off-width roof where we set up a tangled hanging belay. The roof was turned by Keith with the aid of a couple of tube chocks which were used in place of a couple of bolts placed by the first ascentionists, after which it was free to the top. In those heady days, which have been called "the bolt wars", we took more pleasure from climbing a route clean (without pitons or bolts) than from any other sort of ascent. Childish - perhaps? But really, we were only children. So childish in fact that we wrote a letter to Argus or Thrutch proclaiming the results of our bolt eliminations on Caligula and Highway 61. We were later horrified to find out that we had inadvertently reversed the meaning of our note so that it now seemed that we approved of bolts! In any case, it was Melon (Chris Baxter) who eventually slept the sleep of the self-righteous and not us. I have pictures, taken on the same day, of we three on Caligula and Highway 61, and from those I can see that the route in question on this thread is not Caligula. The bell-bottomed (and that's all John and I could see as Keith led the second pitch) curved roof is pretty obviously that which sits on top of Highway 61's main corner.
Ian

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There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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