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General Climbing Discussion

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Glad I'm not in the Blueys

GusR

14-Feb-2012
4:32:36 PM

On 14/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>With two weeks of summer left I feel we have gotten ripped off massively
>this year.

I'm in Perth, with nothing but continuous cloudless skies, and searing heat, plus a horrible fortnight of plus 40 temperatures. I can't help but feel a slight sense of envy.

One Day Hero

14-Feb-2012
4:42:20 PM

On 14/02/2012 Wollemi wrote:
>>
>>...This post doesn't make any sense to me. I'm not concerned about weakening
>>SS glue-ins on BBB, I'm concerned about trad placement failure.
>
>I made an assumption that Mikl's article was about an all-bolted route
>
>
I sense some misunderstanding here.....mostly from wollemi, who seems to have a bit of a tangential thought process to........well, most other people.

The water soaking into the sandstone weakens the rock. So, busting holds is a concern (especially small, sticky-outey holds). This really happens, a friend busted two jugs, then two slung chickenheads on wet rock a few years ago, resulting in big air (and a huge lump on the noggin from a busted chunk of rock)

Some people are worried about gear placements blowing out. I'm a bit half-half about this, if its so soaked that gear is ripping out, I imagine the climbing would be spoogy and horrible too (hence, only idiots would leave the ground in the first place)

I don't think wet rock would weaken bolts to the point where its a concern (especially for absquealing in a waterfall). This is what Wollemi is getting at. He thinks soaked rock makes glued in bolts dangerously weak.


rodw

14-Feb-2012
4:52:59 PM

Sandstone does get weaker when wet...its an issue because holds are more likely to snap when the rock is saturated in water....so 'good' holds could come off routes if you start yarding on them after heavy rain events.

Post edit: didn't see second page, what ODH said.

Water only an issue for glues in if its in the hole before you try and glue the sucker in....once in i doubt it have much effect.

mikllaw

14-Feb-2012
5:12:53 PM

Rope cutting a groove through very wet rock on sunday, bodyweight only, no sliding.

yes, wet rock is much weaker. But a 40 kN ubolt may reduce to only 20 kN.

One Day Hero

14-Feb-2012
5:17:39 PM

It also seems that Wollomi once abseiled from bolts during wet weather. He is concerned that that action has permanently weakened the bolts, and as a result they are liable to fail in the future.

Quaint!

One Day Hero

14-Feb-2012
5:21:44 PM

On 14/02/2012 rodw wrote:
>
>Water only an issue for glues in if its in the hole before you try and
>glue the sucker in....once in i doubt it have much effect.

If you spend the money to get gucci glue, it doesn't even matter that your holes are wet on installation day.

widewetandslippery

14-Feb-2012
5:35:25 PM

Wollemi what lame boating did you do?

Certain blueys sandstone is fine in the damp, piddo for example sparten good, toombstone wall bad.

Wrecking routes for others should be considered and that's coming from a selfish kunt. Some routes can be destroyed in the damp others, well they just feel harder.

I am going canyoning at least saturday. Someone has to keep staticitions employed.


rodw

14-Feb-2012
5:53:47 PM

On 14/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

>If you spend the money to get gucci glue, it doesn't even matter that
>your holes are wet on installation day.

Wet days are for crag searching only ODH...its the ebst tiem for bush bashing as the leeches come out and say hi.

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