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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
Training Plan - Feedback please!
bones
13/02/2012
11:58:25 AM
>On 13/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>>I love how 'climb more' is thrown about so easily, like 'just get on
>rock
>>more often' or ;just take more weekends away to work on your project'

May not be possible in your circumstances, but I've been impressed by the number of people that cram in daytrips and evening visits to crags around melbourne while working full time, with family etc. Especially in summer with daylight savings.
Having said that the bouldering near melbourne aint great...
Rocafella
13/02/2012
12:36:47 PM
On 13/02/2012 Wendy wrote:
>I'd be interested to hear how long you last on this program before getting
>either bored or injured.

Glad you asked! Follow all the highjinks over here: http://geelongrockclimbers.blogspot.com.au/
pecheur
13/02/2012
12:52:13 PM
On 13/02/2012 Wendy wrote:
>I'd be interested to hear how long you last on this program before getting
>either bored or injured.

That workout is positively enthralling compared to a real weights program, here for example is the Original Novice program (which takes 14 weeks) of Starting Strength, possibly the most famous beginner program of all:

Workout A
3x5 Squat
3x5 Bench Press
1x5 Deadlift

Workout B
3x5 Squat
3x5 Press
5x3 Power cleans

Workouts A and B alternate on 3 non-consecutive days per week.


That's it, five exercises repeated over 14 weeks, and you're supposed to rest and NOT do other exercise around it. Keep in mind those are the working reps, you also do 20 reps (for most exercises) of varying weights to warm up.

Bet you his workout looks interesting now.

>I'm sure climbing is supposed to be fun. I'm
>not sure this work out sounds like fun. But, if it does it for you ...

Looks as interesting a staying in the basement with a wooden crack machine and doing 42,300 pull ups and bicep curls over two years. Didn't hurt the Wide Boyz we admire.

>And bugger the supplements, just eat well. Keep a track of your diet and
>levels of nutrients in it if you're worried and somehow manage to find
>time to do something else rather boring.
>
Again he's going for convenience, it's time consuming to make up your own protein / carb mixes for post workouts.

>I approve of all the core work out though. That and a bit of stretching
>is the closest I'd ever get to training. I think it's massively underestimated
>how useful a strong core is in climbing. Next time you feel about to barndoor,
>are holding holds facing the wrong direction, at risk of loosing you
>feet on steep ground - that's your core coming to the rescue. And it's
>pretty hard to injure yourself with core workouts. Well, I guess there
>are some stupid exercises out there that could hurt your back.

Do levers count?
Wendy
13/02/2012
1:00:51 PM
On 13/02/2012 pecheur wrote:

>That's it, five exercises repeated over 14 weeks, and you're supposed
>to rest and NOT do other exercise around it. Keep in mind those are the
>working reps, you also do 20 reps (for most exercises) of varying weights
>to warm up.
>
>Bet you his workout looks interesting now.

I'd tear my hair out ... and I quite like my hair ... fortunately, there are other options than either program!
>
>>I'm sure climbing is supposed to be fun. I'm
>>not sure this work out sounds like fun. But, if it does it for you ...
>
>Looks as interesting a staying in the basement with a wooden crack machine
>and doing 42,300 pull ups and bicep curls over two years. Didn't hurt
>the Wide Boyz we admire.

They do live in a climate that makes staying in a basement look appealing. Still, I wouldn't be doing that either. Living in that climate or climbing in a basement for 2 years. It obviously paid off on routes that were exactly like their crack machine - they did say they did a lot of wide pony action. So i guess campussing and pull ups will pay off for routes that are exactly like campus boards and chin up bars!

pecheur
13/02/2012
1:13:24 PM
On 13/02/2012 Wendy wrote:
>
>I'd tear my hair out ... and I quite like my hair ... fortunately, there
>are other options than either program!
>>
Lol, you didn't even notice it was on fire at NYE (great performance btw).

>They do live in a climate that makes staying in a basement look appealing.
> Still, I wouldn't be doing that either. Living in that climate or climbing
>in a basement for 2 years. It obviously paid off on routes that were exactly
>like their crack machine - they did say they did a lot of wide pony action.
> So i guess campussing and pull ups will pay off for routes that are exactly
>like campus boards and chin up bars!
>
Harsh, harsh, harsh, if he sticks to it and doesn't get hurt I'm sure he'll improve a lot, I'd get bored spitless, but doesn't mean it doesn't work. Just like "Starting Strength", it's incredibly boring but has worked for many people.

arniearms
13/02/2012
6:18:47 PM
One of the things I like about Biocharge (besides supporting an Aussie company) is that it lists all the ingredients incuding the ammounts, so I cannot compare to the supplement you listed as it is made in the USA and does not need to supply the amount of each ingredient.

Also it's the first supplement Ive tried, but have been sold since day 1, sure beats the hell out of poweraid powder, and is sugar free. I get a decent buzz (way more than a coffee) and I actually notice a huge difference when I dont take it.

Supplier is www.bioflexnutrition.com.au, delivery is super quick usually about 2 days.

Both Recovery X & Biocharge mix with water and actually taste great, I've tried all of them - lime/orange/raspberry. They mix well, taste good and work! I based my purchase on reviews I read at eg http://www.sizematters.com.au/supplement-reviews/31638-bioflex-biocharge-review.html (some older reviews talk about not tasing good, but they improved the taste) also 10% discount if u use the code 'sizematters'.

I defianantly recommend both products, they can even be mixed together and just sipped throughout a workout. Recovery X can mixed up in larger quantities much like a regular sports drink (eg poweraid), but the pre-workout is a bit stronger and not recommened to exceed 1 a day.

Also i'm getting into hangboarding this year (slowly but surely), as my previous philosophy was to 'just climb or boulder', but after 10+ years of that formula I feel like mixing it up a bit, and am taking a more structured wholistic approach.

Anyway, this looked an interesting change from the regular 10 minute metolius hangboard workout -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewnx7dKoxHI
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/project-board-10-minute-workout.pdf





On 13/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>I've used supplements before but had mixed results - Gaspari Super Pump
>worked really well for me, especially before comps http://www.nutritionwarehouse.com.au/su
>erpump-max-by-gaspari-nutrition-pr-1246.html
>
>I assume Biocharge would be similar to this?
>I was using Gaspari Myofusion for recovery, but found I either put on
>a heap of weight when mixed with milk, or it tasted like shit when mixed
>with water. http://www.nutritionwarehouse.com.au/myofusion-by-gaspari-nutrition-pr-613.htm
>
>
>Recover X looks to be similar to Charge in that its not whey protein based?
>
>
>Any tips on who stocks it and what flavours don't taste like ass?

Miguel75
13/02/2012
6:38:30 PM
On the topic of training, I have a handy pdf from Climbing magazine, about training to avoid injury. I'm unable to vouch for its awesomeness, as I haven't used said training regime, but I'm happy to share. PM me your contact details if you would like a copy.
TobyB
17/02/2012
1:58:40 PM
Without going into too much details there are four principles to training:
SPECIFICITY: How and what you do is what you get better at
OVERLOAD: To get stronger you must place increasingly greater loads on your body
ADAPTION: After overload your body compensates and adapts to the new loads (but you gotta rest to let it do this)
REVERSIBILTY: aka 'detraining' stop doing stuff and you get weak again

I think that specificity is really the most important asses your WEAKNESSES and train to improve those in a way that most reflects actually climbing situations in which those weaknesses hold you back.

ENDURANCE: Do lots and lots of climbing, try stay climbing for periods of 30 minutes or longer just below the threshold of getting pumped.
MAX STRENGTH: Overload overload overload, here you are trying to increase your muscle size ie hypertrophy a typical resistance routine would be 3 sets of 6-12 reps at 80% max.
POWER ENDURANCE: Try and get as hideously pumped as you possibly can
POWER: Quality over quantity here you are going for 1-3 reps of your absolute maximum, you should be 100% fresh and at this point feel like you are not training enough

'PERIODIZATION' Read up on Bompa but essentially rotate through what you train so you don't plateau and reduce the risk of injury.

Again asses your weaknesses and train to improve them, ask yourself what are my three best assets and three worst assets as a climber? Ask the same question of training/climbing partners do they match up? What are you training for? Here Jimbos you want to crack the V10 grade, so what have you done already as a platform for that goal? What can I do from this base to then reach that goal? When I have tried hard problems what has held me back, was it a particular aspect of my strength? Which one? Fingers? Lock Off? Core? All that said strength is probably not the issue, this last year I have been lucky enough to climb with the likes of Malcom Matherson, Mayan Golban-Smith, Dave Graham, Simon Young and plenty more who f---ing crush not one of them ever said anything about getting stronger on routes/problems they failed on (sure they used being 'tired' as a lame excuse for not doing some bloody thing or another) but the point is they always talked about moves, movement, body position, SO are you training to improve movement?
I noticed last night and we all do it, but I rarley get the chance to climb in gyms with others but when we are with other climbers we ALWAYS encourage them 'go for it' 'have it' 'allez' whatever you spray. It is of course fantastic to be in an encouraging environment and dig deep for that little extra bit that may help us send, but are you sending or training? Think of another sport where our coaches/teammates would encourage us for just making that hold or desperately slapping something with awful technique. None, they would say that's shit, do it again PROPERLY this time. This is the attitude you should take into your training, you should be aiming yes to get stronger and go harder but not at the expense of good style and efficient movement on rock. So ask yourself and your training partners, how did that look, could I have been more efficient? Where were my feet? Where were my hips? Is this the best way of doing this problem? Why is this way better than that way?
I think your program looks good man, but think about specificity stick with it and you will definitely get stronger provided you focus on aspects that are weak. Make sure you stick with antagonist work personally I do push-ups, military press and external shoulder rotation with a stretch band 3-4 times a week and whatever rehab exercise for niggling injuries at the time usually elbows (you will get this if you keep campusing!) also the importance of a warm-up, cool-down and stretch don't think of them as seperate to your training/climbing they are an essential part of it, at the end of the day if you cool-down and stretch properly you will recover quicker, therefore train more and be stronger sooner. Keep riding your bike. But climbing isn't all in your muscles, the beauty that we all enjoy is the movement more akin to dancing perhaps, so think like a dancer and try get 10/10 on your score card OLE!

-Tobes
tobiasbucek.blogspot.com.au

PS Kez and I will come past STA tomorrow for tickets :P

Rocafella
15/03/2012
11:02:08 AM
Hey everyone,

Bit of an update on how things are going, couple of trip reports and other musings from the GRC crew

http://geelongrockclimbers.blogspot.com.au/

Training plan is going well, but still not sticking to what I planned 100% (work, babies, life getting in the way) but good progress none the less!

James
dmnz
15/03/2012
4:27:40 PM
what about periodisation and cycling and just the old 'the best exercise for you is the one you're not doing' on the principle that novelty shocks on the body will lead to growth? The surest way to get the same results is to do the same thing over and over training wise. Vary weights, reps, sets even exercises? I know you just want to boulder but you could look at things like deadlifts and squats to get some more leg and hip strength, etc.

You could also look at diet and rest, sleep etc

It's not just physical!

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