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Climbing Training


Pat

10-Feb-2012
7:22:32 PM

Also, as I am a total bumbly, I will continue to take him up low angled slabs and that will help his footwork - if that doesn't work I will switch tactics and take up abusing him on the forum.

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2012
7:27:19 PM

I have trained hard and seriously for most aspects of climbing (no pure ice/mixed) and if you want results doing something is better than nothig. Wanna be an olympian train like an olymian.

For mountain trips I have use katoomba to paralyser and back in 24hrs, once spoke to john and his ideaof training was trying to do the 3 peaks in that time. I blame equipment. He wore volleys, me those csiro kt26s.

Seriously, go climbing, train finger strenght, train dynamic pulling, train maximum core as malcolm s, train power endurance as you will get strong without f---ing yourself to much and you only actually get strong resting and eating. Bullen was a 1L skim milk out of bed a day man with projects written on the fingerboard

Sorry pedants but hand held but I am sure you get the idea

hipdos

10-Feb-2012
8:31:26 PM

On 10/02/2012 Wendy wrote:
>is it all that risk taking with my finger and elbow tendons? So I gradually
>increase my tolerance to risk taking?

no it's more that those speccy double dynos will make you feel good about yourself, which will give you the ovaries to run it out to that next shitty placement

look, I know you can get injured training, but if done in moderation... ahh forget it


Miguel75

10-Feb-2012
9:04:00 PM

On 10/02/2012 pickles wrote:
>It is difficult to do structured training when you dont know what you are
>supposed to be working on.

Agreed. (mainly I just wanted to quote pickles because he has a very groovy username)

What's going on with today? I feel like I'm in an alternate universe; ODH and Wendy agreeing, Dalai and ODH agreeing, Bert in a Singaporean hospital.... Not sure why but this quote seems apropos;

Hansel: So I'm rappelling down Mount Vesuvius when suddenly I slip, and I start to fall. Just falling, ahh ahh, I'll never forget the terror. When suddenly I realize "Holy shit, Hansel, haven't you been smoking Peyote for six straight days, and couldn't some of this maybe be in your head?"
Derek Zoolander: And?
Hansel: And it was. I was totally fine. I've never even been to Mount Vesuvius.

Maybe tomorrow will be normaler;)

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2012
11:24:06 PM

when you go to sleep you feel asured you will wake up? You have just dbunked your faith


Miguel75

11-Feb-2012
1:38:40 PM

On 10/02/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>when you go to sleep you feel asured you will wake up? You have just dbunked
>your faith

I go to sleep figuring I'll fall asleep. Anything more than that is a bonus;) If I wake up I don't put it down to faith, I put it down to circadian rhythm and some form of zeitgeber; either my alarm clock, daylight or a screaming child;)


bigchris

11-Feb-2012
1:55:15 PM

On 10/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>On 10/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>>Now, with that frame of reference, here is a translation of the climbing
>>question you just asked......
>>
>>"Hi, I'm getting into drumming, and I want to know how to be better.
>I
>>don't want to be a pro, just keen to play awesome gigs which go off,
>and
>>to garner a following for the band. Currently I have a practice pad which
>>I play on twice a week, and I drum on my steering wheel on the way to
>work.
>>About once a month I borrow a mate's kit for the arvo. So, just wondering
>>what advice people have that'll get me some sweet gigs?"
>
>The really funny thing about your comment ODH is that bigchris is a professional
>drummer so you have inadvertently told him how to train in a way that he
>totally understands - so maybe he will actually climb 26 eventually. I
>hope I am there to see it.
>

Yeah I totally laughed when I read that. I appreciate the kind words Pat, and I totally think that if I can climb and train hard enough, whats to stop me from getting there?

Now, the difference between ODH and me is that if he asked me how to be a professsional drummer/musician, I would just turn around and tell him what he needs to do and how to do it, not be a smart arse about it either. I would probably say it'll take you years and years of practise and training and playing "shit" gigs on your mates drum kit, but eventually with the right guidance and determination, you'll be able to do what you want to do.

One Day Hero

11-Feb-2012
5:43:05 PM

On 11/02/2012 bigchris wrote:
>
>Yeah I totally laughed when I read that. I appreciate the kind words Pat,
>and I totally think that if I can climb and train hard enough, whats to
>stop me from getting there?

Statistics! For every climber who gets good enough to churn out mid 20's routes (I think of all the people I climb with, only 3 would really be good enough to be put in that basket), probably 20 or 30 start out with bright hopes and noble intentions. I imagine the odds are even slimmer for newbs who aspire to be pro muso's............are you that one in 30 for climbing as well as music? Maybe, I hope so, give it a crack and enjoy getting better. But don't be too shattered if it turns out that you don't have 'it'.
>
>Now, the difference between ODH and me is that if he asked me how to be
>a professsional drummer/musician, I would just turn around and tell him
>what he needs to do and how to do it, not be a smart arse about it either.

Meh, you want straight advice? everyone else gave you good straight advice........except that dude with the campus nonsense.

I was trying to find a good analogy that you might understand.....luckily it turns out that I'm psychic :D

But seriously, my analogy is a good one. It seems that you might be caught up in thinking that every day at the crag is like a gig. Its not! going climbing on rock is like practicing on your instrument, climbing in the gym is hitting a practice pad, and a weights gym is tapping the steering wheel.

There are no gigs in climbing! You don't have to be good for anyone else, its only you and your climbing partner who care, and if you stuff up or have a shitty day it just doesn't matter. So get out there and practice.

btw, what sort of music do you play? It occured to me that if you're having trouble finding people to take you climbing, maybe trading evening music lessons in the pines for daytime climbing lessons would work. There's even a crowd of experienced climbers in Nati who were paying some wierd cult lady to teach them piano with her "alternate" music theory.........opportunity there, surely!

dalai

11-Feb-2012
6:16:02 PM

On 11/02/2012 bigchris wrote:
>>Now, the difference between ODH and me is that if he asked me how to be
>a professsional drummer/musician, I would just turn around and tell him
>what he needs to do and how to do it, not be a smart arse about it either.
>I would probably say it'll take you years and years of practise and training
>and playing "shit" gigs on your mates drum kit, but eventually with the
>right guidance and determination, you'll be able to do what you want to
>do.

The reality is just some people wont be able attain what you want regardless of how much they want it. Why the focus already on numbers? One of the amazing things about climbing is that from day one you are already in the band. The process to climb a single pitch or multpitch route is the same regardless the difficulty. Throw someone behind a drum kit day one and all they will make is noise...

Currently you have been out once a month outdoors. How many sessions indoors per week? As I said before take a techique course, otherwise you will continue to climb with bad technique - and when you finally improve fitness through frequent climbing (I am suggesting at minimum 3 sessions a week) your technique will be a limiter.

You want to improve? Climb heaps on different rock types. In time you will get comfortable with the process and your gear allowing you to get onto more difficult routes without worrying about your gear placements and focus on the moves.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Feb-2012
8:27:33 PM

dalai and others wrote-

Don't believe any of it bigchris.
I have been climbing outdoors on all types of rock for ~~eons~~ years and I am still a bumbly...
ODH reckons 1:30 ratio. Maybe 1: 1030 is closer to the mark?
Heh, heh, heh.

~> Then again, if you go and injure yourself on a training device you will make me look good, so have at it lad, far be it from me to hold you back!
;-)
Heh, heh, heh.

Wendy

13-Feb-2012
11:18:48 AM

On 11/02/2012 Danger Mouse wrote:
>My 'plan' is pretty simple: work weaknesses.

How's he supposed to know his weaknesses when he's barely climbed at all??? Most climbers are crap at recognising their weaknesses at the best of times. Take all that strength training advice. Strength is usually not the weakness that is holding climbers back. And even when it is, it won't be an issue until about 22 + anyway. How much finger strength do you need to climb below that? How much power? You develop what you need by climbing lots. Technique, endurance and your head are much more likely to be weaknesses. And, lo and behold, climbing lots is quite good for all of them. I'll give you there may be a point well into the in the 20s where specific training can be more helpful, but also that you can still improve simply with slight more targeted fûckloads of climbing.

hipdos

13-Feb-2012
12:30:06 PM

On 11/02/2012 dalai wrote:
Why the focus already on numbers?

My biggest motivator to climb higher grades is it gives you more possibilities to climb classic routes. Not so important when you start out obviously, as there is so much of the easier stuff that is new to you. If you can get it to, say, grade 23 you are going to have a multitude of classics to choose from.


arniearms

13-Feb-2012
5:51:01 PM

Sometimes when I feel like lifting weights instead of climbing, I refer to the book "Off the Wall Exercises for Climbers" by Lisa M. Wolfe. Good for weeks when I dont feel like climbing, and can get 3 days lifting dumbbells, easy/cheap to setup at home (prob wont need more than 10kg for each arm).

I have had alot of success returning from injury after initial physio by regular dumbbell exercises, body weight exercises (pushups/pullups/dips), swimming, yoga and just a bit of hang boarding to work the fingers.

Books can also be good for technique & training plans etc.

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