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27-Apr-2006 10:40:04 AM
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"A couple of year's ago a sport climber from Australia, Simon, came over for a tour de force of northern UK crags. He was a right ponce. A dancy-wancy tip-toe here, an exaggerated finger placement there…. you know the type. He was from Sydney. The two top cragging spots near Sydney are the Blue Mountains and Nowra. The majority of the routes follow a line of bolts and finish at a set of chains for lowering off. Simon left me for a weakling on the bolts of Malham. However, faced with the prospect of actually topping out at Brimham, the F7c clipping queen was reduced to a panic stricken bumbly. He had no idea what to do. I would have offered advice when he reached the top of Birch Tree Wall VS 4c, but I was too busy pissing my sides as he laid belly down, a bit like a human seesaw, on the edge of the crag. His movements were best described as involuntary breaststroke."
-Alastair Lee on hard climbers and old school top outs.
If only we knew this Simon, the fun we cond make!
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27-Apr-2006 10:53:24 PM
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julian 26/04/06
>looking to sublet our climbing wall out. (snip). it is 4m by 4m and steep
Garrath
>....and most probably really really hard.
julian
>now garrath ...'hard' is relative. for you it would surely be just a slab
onsight
>Nah, it's probably hard... and run-out to buggery...
Classic! (LOL), Love it, ... given the (hard) grades these chaps climb.
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4-Sep-2006 12:21:00 PM
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Overheard at the crag yesterday:
"If I was 15kgs lighter I could climb 36 ..."
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4-Sep-2006 2:09:45 PM
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The setting: When walking across the top of white water wall through the old campsites, we past a guy
Bivvy'ing who had a book lying next to him. The title of the book quite obvious "Farmecology".
One of the guys in our party, in his typical loud voice "Farmecology, he must be a smart c--t!"
The death look from the guy who was apparently not asleep, and rolled over to look at us, was priceless!
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4-Sep-2006 2:48:34 PM
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From a carving on the side of my stubby holder
"the top of the mountain or cliff is only half way there, we should always return home so we can climb another day."
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4-Sep-2006 2:54:22 PM
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"lifes a garden..Dig it"
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5-Sep-2006 1:22:04 PM
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Wealth I ask not, hope nor love,
Nor a friend to know me,
All I seek, the heaven above,
And the road below me.
- RL Stevenson
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5-Sep-2006 1:57:14 PM
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"Crikey"
RIP Mr. Steve Irwin
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22-Sep-2006 10:03:06 AM
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"go bouldering on the shit... Its ok to have fun that way, fat chicks and mopeds, just don't let your mates see you do it."
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25-Sep-2006 2:10:45 PM
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"‘Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all."
~ From a poster on Rockclimbing.com site.
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27-Oct-2006 11:49:36 AM
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In an interview with the Denver Post, Todd Skinner was quoted as saying there are three types of fear in rock climbing:
"What you have been afraid of, what are you afraid of now, and what you will be afraid of. The last one is the worst. It is the part of the climb that you cannot fight with right now, and for some climbers, the specter of it above their heads is too much for them."
Vale ~ Todd Skinner ~ 2006
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27-Oct-2006 3:48:52 PM
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'i couldve been the next garth miller, if i didnt like beer so much'
-madtaffy ponders his relationship with the bottle. MtVic pub. last night.
'how old are you babe?'
'19 years young'
'im 46 years old, im divorced & have 2 kids'
-the girl i was dirty dancing with at mt vic pub last night...she didnt look that old oright!!
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27-Oct-2006 9:17:52 PM
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There are three types of people in this world
Ones that can count
And ones that cant
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27-Oct-2006 11:39:46 PM
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"these are the biggest holds you'll ever fall off"
Todd Skinner.
I like this quote. Cause my climbing spunk (well, ex spunk) said this to me once when I kept attempting and failing at this one climb. I never realised where the origins of this phrase came from until I came across it being quoted on supertopo or rc.com. in reference to something Todd Skinner had said.
Here's to you Skinner for reminding me of another person that I thought was just unreal and whom I'll never get to see again.
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28-Oct-2006 7:54:07 AM
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“I don’t always know what I am talking about, but I know I’m right” – Muahmed Ali
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5-Nov-2006 8:05:47 PM
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someone was 'attempting' Savage Journey at the Lost World in tassie. it is a gnarly, awkward, flaring, sustained and very steep crack. FFA: Henry Barber 1975.
at about 8m there is a small bush*; quite an excellent handhold and foothold really.
the climber makes full use of the tree as he struggles up the route (complaining as he went).
"Henry wouldn't have used the tree!"
came the call from the peanut gallery.
the climber shoots back:
"Henry's a softc--k."
* well, not anymore. as of about... 6 hours ago... the bush is no longer there. this is what reminded me of the quote!
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29-Nov-2006 10:08:00 AM
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A classic moment in Chockstone worth preserving on this thread.
On 28/11/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>Upset?, no,if I were upset I would get out my belay knife and ....well you get the idea
then gordoste wrote:
>one question... what is a belay knife?
And then came this enjoyable reply …
On 28/11/2006 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>You use a belay knife for doing a Yeats hitch.
... for the possible few who don't know the story, read Touching the Void by Joe Simpson. His climbing partner on that epic was Simon Yates.
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29-Nov-2006 11:01:20 AM
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"I reckon it was -30deg on that bivvy. Come to think of it, that's how cold it was for Glenn Pennycook when he soloed Cook, but he had no bivvy gear. He's insane. We're not insane, just soft**cks"
Tim Billington in Patagonia
"What're you up to this weekend? Wanna come trad climbing?"
"Nah, I'm going bouldering instead"
"Ok, go pebble-wrestling with your pad-peeps then"
Vaughan Shanks
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29-Nov-2006 1:26:25 PM
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from a stubby holder that came from the victorian homicide squad
"our day begins when yours ends".
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30-Nov-2006 11:45:39 AM
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Recently on my first trip to Yosemite Valley my first cliimb was an old school 11 pitch 5.9-NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral. This climb made me reevaluate 5.9 to say the least! Pitch 8 is one of many "5.8" chimneys. At the top of the pitch someone had scratched out "BURLY" in chalk. My comment through trembling, sweaty lips-"No f***ing sh*t."
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