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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Quotes

Rupert
4-Jun-2004
2:26:55 PM
Thats brilliant - I hadn't heard that one. :)
deadpoint
4-Jun-2004
2:48:28 PM

"Fear is nature's way of testing to see how serious you are about your goals"

rodw
4-Jun-2004
3:16:30 PM
God help us if we near the 100 mark Frilly!!!

anthonyk
4-Jun-2004
4:04:50 PM
"Profanity is about the best pro you'll get until the crack starts to narrow. Include doubles of profanity in the #6 to #8 range on your rack for this lead." — Bruce Bindner.

"Naked male sport climbers ? No ! I want naked male trad hogs ! Pushing 50 or over, very hairy chest and back, front tooth missing (no dental insurance), wrinkled yellow toenail fungus, sunburnt dome with long gray ponytail (sparse curls will do), fingers the size of Polish sausages, torn-off nipples due to offwidth damage...
Now there's a man, an image to behold, every climber chick's dream. And when he says: 'Hey, honey, wanna do the DNB ?' you just melt into a heap of adoring lard." — Inez Drixelius.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4-Jun-2004
5:01:36 PM
Re Hard Aid:
"Hard aid certainly has its place for opening up new routes, but if pursued as an end rather than a means (as some egocentric climbers will), then it will turn out to be a dead end".
Ron Olevsky

Re Roped-Soloing:
"I'm pretty good at math, but I still don't quite understand how this works. Roped soloing is three times the work, and five times the challenge, but yields ten times the reward".
Ron Olevsky

Re Route Preservation:
"I still believe in lthe first-ascent principle. You don't alter someones route. Don't remove or add to an existing one. If you don't like a route, go and put up a better one. To me this principle should apply to all kinds of routes, aid or free, traditional or not".
Ron Olevsky

(All the above from Rock & Ice Magazine issue 132, April 2004).

Tel
4-Jun-2004
5:17:32 PM
a few more ....

' What lies before us and what lies lies behind us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us ' - - Oliver Wendell Holmes

' Action without thought is a form of insanity; thought without action is a crime " - - Albert Einstein

' Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it ' - - Dalai Lama

' We are what we do repeatedly. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit ' - - Aristotle
mikl law
5-Jun-2004
6:07:36 AM
" There are two ways of clipping a bolt, the correct way and the common way" Ferret
" Never eat more than you can lift." Miss Piggy
" Bolts, sex, and ice cream are the only proper interests for a young climber" 70's self
" I'm too old to die young" Robin Storer




Ell
5-Jun-2004
7:01:30 PM
From RC.com:

"What's the worst part about being a 5.13 sport climber?
Telling your parents you're gay."

rodw
5-Jun-2004
7:18:07 PM
Cant remember seeing this one quoted (Apolgise's if it was),

"What dosn't kill me, makes me stronger" - Nietzsche (I Think)

anthonyk
7-Jun-2004
2:22:47 AM
>"What dosn't kill me, makes me stronger" - Nietzsche (I Think)

and what doesn't make me stronger might be a whole lot of fun before it kills me.
ant
7-Jun-2004
12:57:45 PM
On a long distance bike ride, a rather chubby friend said:

"eat some more food dude - you skinny guys tend to blow up!"
kieranl
7-Jun-2004
8:37:00 PM
"Lips that would kiss
Form prayers to broken stone."

maxots
7-Jun-2004
9:34:32 PM
wheres that from keiren (is it me or is from eliot )????

if im brutally wrong here dont bag me out too much !

vwills
8-Jun-2004
10:33:40 AM
Lips that would kiss
Form prayers to broken stone

? TS Eliot
kieranl
8-Jun-2004
11:56:13 AM
Yeah, good old Thomas Stearns from The Hollow Men

The Elk
8-Jun-2004
3:07:46 PM
"Live your dreams, don't dream your life."

Brigitte Muir
The Wind in My Hair

GG
8-Jun-2004
3:16:12 PM
I drink therefore I am.
deadpoint
8-Jun-2004
3:38:38 PM
On 8/06/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>‘A new idealism. We didn’t realise the advantages in abseiling a prospective
>route, pre-placing pro, rehearsing the moves or chalking up holds. Believe
>it or not, many of us were idealists. We felt we had turned the corner
>of human greed and were on the path to humanitarianism and a new environmental
>ethic. The Vietnam War had ended largely, we felt, because of our demonstrations
>against it……. On the rock, bolts were outlawed, pitons were retired and,
>as for piton hammers they indicated one thing – criminality. “Tread lightly
>so no-one who follows can see the path you have taken” became our catchcry.’
>- John Smart

Then he got Smart and bashed in two bolts on Moral Turpitude and never looked back, ethics are there to be bent when fallen on.

>

Damietta
8-Jun-2004
5:33:22 PM
Immaculate Deception was a solo 35m grade 22 on the central/northern slabs area of Booromba, originally given grade 24. It was later led by Mike Law-Smith after a top rope inspection. There are a number of similar routes nearby without pro put up by M L-S and Richard Watts. Those guys were capitalising on how much granite climbing they had been doing at the time. After a while climbing those slabs is like going through the motions. However, if you're out of practice, they are deadly hard.......

Moral Turpitude is a 23/34 on the south buttress at Booromba. John Smart added two bolts to the route for the first ascent - despite numerous lead attempts by Smart without bolts. The controversy arose, because Mr Smart and others had earlier eschewed the use of bolts, chalk and training in favour of the off the couch, onsight, trad style of climbing - and had threatened to give the bash to anyone who didn't follow suite. The bolting, though necessary, was an action dripping with hypocrisy in that context. However, even with the bolts the route is run out and hard, and is rarely repeated

Another quote from the legendary "ACT Granite" guidebook is "if it's got a runner it's not bold" - can't remember who was responsible for that one, it's a goodun
James
8-Jun-2004
10:43:07 PM
I remember reading another Claw quote/analogy that was along the lines of....
- gym climbing is like an air rifle shoot-up game at the Show
- leading sport routes is like rabbit hunting with a 303
- leading on real gear is like rabbit hunting with a 303, except the rabbit's got the gun & is trying to shoot you!!

& my favourite, "... the most important part of climbing is coffee...." Wolfgang Gullich.


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There are 766 messages in this topic.

 

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