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Wide Boyz


BoulderBaby

8-Oct-2011
9:42:17 PM

Brilliant! These boys never fail to amaze.

maxdacat

8-Oct-2011
9:56:18 PM

On 24/09/2011 alex_Ekins wrote:
>Hey Everyone
>Good to see you all following Tom and Pete's suffering. I'm travelling
>with them to record the pain.
>Blogging every 3/4 days here - http://alexekins.co.uk/category/blog/
>Cheers
>Alex

Good stuff on there but white text on a black background is an internet crime against humanity!

Wendy

9-Oct-2011
9:15:47 AM

On 8/10/2011 benjenga wrote:
>Holly Sh*t its like super crack in the creek but horizontal roof..

holy shît, it's about three times as wide as super crack but horizontal roof ...

Wendy

9-Oct-2011
9:34:41 AM

On 8/10/2011 davidn wrote:
>Wendy - eww. Couldn't you just think it?
>
>Asking in complete ignorance - are those roof offwidths way way harder
>than vertical to reasonably overhung ones? Seems like the same need for
>pain would be involved, just a lot more time spent upside-down? I find
>it a little odd that the guys are climbing 5.13s (and soloing 5.12d, to
>be fair, so obviously very strong) then suddenly climb a possible 5.14d...

I suspect is a combination of specialist and stamina. They have obviously got the techniques going, have done lots of training, and been out climbing this stuff, so they are already in a relatively unique position. Then just times it by capacity to hold on and keep fighting, recover in any better positions, and voila, you have massive long roof.

It's obviously way longer than Lucille, so it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect it to be way harder, and it's probably much more so for people who are less specialised and haven't been doing training for exactly this sort of stuff. So it could realistically be a truckload more difficult than what they have been doing, without being an unrealistic jump. My theory being that there are no particularly harder moves, just lots more of them. Their experience of the route and grade are probably going to be way different to most people's, who are just going to call it impossible. I guess this is all stuff they're considering whilst they are not yet confirming a grade.

Wendy

9-Oct-2011
9:35:54 AM

On 8/10/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>For someone in a rural artea you are very closed minded wendy.

Only sheep and cows are acceptable around here. Ponies are perverted.


ajfclark

9-Oct-2011
9:42:24 AM

Didn;'t they also mention that the crack they' built in the cellar was almost exactly the same width? or was that a different route?

Wendy

10-Oct-2011
8:47:14 AM

I just read this in their comments about Trench Warfare:

"Pete and I have just spent 2 weeks in Vedauwoo (report) pulling off days and days of hideous chicken wings and dodgy knee locks, so it was with some relief that we headed down to try this route. We're actually not that good at the climbing in Vedauwoo (as we've not spent hours and hours practising chicken wings!), but what we have trained for is a stack load of wide pony and horizontal roof cracks!! This was essentially to be the first route for us to try out our real training."

So, they are onsighting 13a in the sort of offwidths they feel they are not very good at ... and Century Crack is the sort of offwidth they feel they are very good at.


ajfclark

14-Oct-2011
12:37:24 PM

updates http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-of-wide-madness.html


ajfclark

20-Oct-2011
10:27:19 AM

Discussion of century crack's grade: http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/10/century-crack-grade.html


ajfclark

27-Oct-2011
2:29:25 PM

Most confidence inspiring piece of gear I've ever seen:

More updates: http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/10/project-time-in-desert.html


ajfclark

3-Nov-2011
8:10:10 AM

http://alexekins.co.uk/crushing-in-canyonlands/


ajfclark

7-Nov-2011
9:19:23 AM

Creative rope manipulation:

http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html

Super stylish look for climbing:

http://alexekins.co.uk/the-wideboyz-return-to-century-crack/


ajfclark

15-Nov-2011
4:15:31 PM

Wide Boys climb Century Crack from chris Alstrin on Vimeo.


Sabu

15-Nov-2011
4:25:24 PM

That looks really cool! Great footage.

tariadamar

15-Nov-2011
5:25:12 PM

i just love how you look at the crack as you walk up to it.

Wendy

15-Nov-2011
5:54:05 PM

I'm devastated at the absence of that sort of stuff in Oz. All we get good at here is the get in and grovel fat, flared monstrosity (which I do admit to having a soft spot for), but really, extend parallel fat crack ... and in a roof ... must make another trip to Utah.

There are 36 messages in this topic.