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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
Author
year long climbing trip around oz
citationx
26/08/2011
7:35:04 PM
On 26/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
>People rave about freycinet too me, but not a single route sticks in my
>memory ... I find this mildly disturbing.

I find Tassie the best. Shame you couldn't get off the ground on the pipes, I think they have the greatest climbs around, longest sustained finger locking sections in the country! (Alright, i've never been to Frog, but this route was at least 90m!). In fact, I did it with Alice. While it was snowing. It was still one of the best climbs I've ever done. And a climb that I DO claim to be the best i've ever climbed is the current photo of the month - Harlequin. You start undercut, then into a sickle-crack followed by a perfect hands corner crack, then you get the juggy, overhung section, then there's turning onto the slab with the crack, until the crack peters out and you're left to slab unprotected for 5m to the chains. BRILLIANT! Clearly you can't remember anything cause you haven't climbed the right routes! And the there's the 250m crack/slab/edgey route on the Hazards (Arocknaphobia, maybe?) Gold!
You really should return to Tassie. It's the best.

nmonteith
26/08/2011
7:36:54 PM
I presume bungonia, warrumbungles and giraween are also on the list.
stugang
26/08/2011
7:41:11 PM
On 26/08/2011 skegly wrote:
>Don't forget Mt Alexander and the areas such as Mt Bec, camels hump and
>others. Yes there not mega crags or Bufflao or Grampians or Araps but there
>is some great stuff.

If this isn't a troll, then I think we have a calibration point for CMI 10.
ClimbingNT
26/08/2011
7:41:25 PM
Hairy1 - are you still in Darwin?

As for Top End climbing, I would put 2 - 3 days aside to go and tick some of our better climbs with rewarding views of the NT.

Also, if you can T it up, you might be able to get into some places that you otherwise cannot without a local to point you in the right direction.

According to 99% of the info you can get off the web, the only 'climbing' place is Butterfly, which is 99% untrue. Butterfly isnt touched as often as most of the other local crags because you need to organise things like permits and what not - and when you get out that way, its usually full of those weird abseiling folk who do everything backwards!
TonyH
26/08/2011
7:47:04 PM
What - no winter visit to Townsville? Mt Stuart etc...
One Day Hero
26/08/2011
11:59:03 PM
On 26/08/2011 citationx wrote:

>In fact, I did it with Alice.

Alice.....Alice?........Who the fuk is Alice?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/08/2011
12:28:56 AM
On 26/08/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 26/08/2011 citationx wrote:
>
>>In fact, I did it with Alice.
>
>Alice.....Alice?........Who the fuk is Alice?

~>Dons ODH fugly hat and sings along in tune...
... and for 24 years you've been waiting for the chance,
to tell us how you feel and maybe get a second glance,
now odh's gotta get used to living next door to vicariously on Chocky!
~> binsfuglyhat!



dmnz
27/08/2011
2:30:30 PM
@ Wendy: very informative and useful
@Citationx and ODH: will have to take my rack next time I go to Tas.

Tossing up VIC v TAS in summer

how hot does it get out at the victorian crags on average over the summer period?
ie how much climbing would you realistically get in versus going at a colder time of year?
NB I'm more a "it's hot" if it's over 20C kinda person



rodw
27/08/2011
3:03:22 PM
If you be nice to ODH he might take you to his favourite crags at Wingello or New Nowra.

Doug
27/08/2011
3:47:44 PM
It's probably the fault of the kinda painful to climb with ex
>boyfriend I first went to Tassie with that I struggle to see why people
>get so excited about it. That, and getting snowed on. I never even got
>off the ground on the pipes.
>People rave about freycinet too me, but not a single route sticks in my
>memory ... I find this mildly disturbing.

You'll just have to come back, Wendy! Yes, it can snow here at any time but you gotta persevere! ;-)
I'd actually recommend February/March which is our most stable period. Re Freycinet: did you climb on the Main Wall: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Hazards+Main+Wall?
Stud City is one of the best moderate multipitch routes you'd do anywhere, and there's a bunch more there that are terrific, and what a setting.
Also, what about Harlequin (see route of the month) No Turn Unstoned, Baystone Blues, and Light Fingered Madison. Many good routes for those who climb harder, too.
I suggest a good look at the Freycinet main page on thesarvo.com for anyone who wants to whet their appetite for what seems to be arguably the best coastal cragging in Australia: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Freycinet+-+Coles+Bay
When you throw in Mt Wellington, Ben Lomond and the Tasman Peninsula there is a couple of months' worth to do just picking the cherries!
Use thesarvo.com's climbing guides as your most reliable source of info on route descriptions and how to find them:
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Climbing+Guides
You can download and print as much or as little as you want, all for free! Having said that, you can also order online books or join the CCT (http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/login.action?os_destination=%2Fdisplay%2Fcct) and make a donation so the club can upgrade anchors, improve access and add to the growing wealth of climbing opportunities in Tassie ...

Sabu
27/08/2011
4:33:06 PM
On 27/08/2011 dmnz wrote:
>how hot does it get out at the victorian crags on average over the summer
>period?
>ie how much climbing would you realistically get in versus going at a
>colder time of year?
>NB I'm more a "it's hot" if it's over 20C kinda person

At araps over summer you can expect several days at around 40 degrees. Sometimes in a row as well. Not sure of actual average but you can expect to see a lot of days at around 30 degrees. If you get hot when its over 20 you might want to explore tassie instead!
Wendy
27/08/2011
5:36:17 PM
On 27/08/2011 dmnz wrote:

>Tossing up VIC v TAS in summer
>
>how hot does it get out at the victorian crags on average over the summer
>period?
>ie how much climbing would you realistically get in versus going at a
>colder time of year?
>NB I'm more a "it's hot" if it's over 20C kinda person
>
Maybe you should team up with ODH for a winter Vic trip then! It'll be over 20 at most crags most days in summer. If you can tolerate 28-35 if in the shade, you'll find plenty to do. More so if Bundaleer is open by summer. Bundaleer has it's own airconditioning system. Either suffer through the other hotter days, find an airconditioned pub or head for the beach. The southern coastline of vic is cold. really bloody cold.
dmnz
29/08/2011
11:00:11 AM
On 27/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
If you can tolerate 28-35 if
>in the shade, you'll find plenty to do. More so if Bundaleer is open by
>summer. Bundaleer has it's own airconditioning system. Either suffer through
>the other hotter days, find an airconditioned pub or head for the beach.
> The southern coastline of vic is cold. really bloody cold.

So maybe early summer VIC then make way to TAS for summer walking and rock then?
Duncan
29/08/2011
11:18:22 AM
On 29/08/2011 dmnz wrote:
>So maybe early summer VIC then make way to TAS for summer walking and
>rock then?

I was in the Gramps in late September a few years back and we had a string of days in the mid-30's. It was pretty grim to be honest.

Sabu
29/08/2011
11:22:47 AM
On 29/08/2011 dmnz wrote:
>On 27/08/2011 Wendy wrote:
> If you can tolerate 28-35 if
>>in the shade, you'll find plenty to do. More so if Bundaleer is open
>by
>>summer. Bundaleer has it's own airconditioning system. Either suffer
>through
>>the other hotter days, find an airconditioned pub or head for the beach.
>> The southern coastline of vic is cold. really bloody cold.
>
>So maybe early summer VIC then make way to TAS for summer walking and
>rock then?

Probably not a bad idea. Bare in mind that at Araps and the Gramps you can often find shady areas and have a great day of climbing when its hot.
hipdos
29/08/2011
11:53:52 AM
I always thought it was a lot simpler than all this! For the best climbing areas (In my opinion) in Aus:
Summer - Tassie or Buffalo are really the only good options.
Winter - Frog or Nowra. Many other areas will get a nice mild spell but if you bank on that you run the risk of sitting around while it is miserable.
Spring & Autumn - Araps/Gramps, Blueys, Point Perp, Moonarie, and just about everywhere else.

Work the lesser crags / areas in amongst it, draw a few Wendy-style lines on a map and you are sorted. I can't see any keen climber getting burnt out over a year either, you don't have to climb every day and can take off a week any time you like to go and do something else like surf or bush walk or eat and drink lots.
hipdos
29/08/2011
11:57:10 AM
or work like you said

benjenga
29/08/2011
4:43:19 PM
I have climbed at frog to summers in a row and as long as your off by lunch time its fine, start climbing again around 3.
Also coolum cave and yes mt Stuart at townsvile has some good climbing if your in the area.
I would advise not to go to point perp in summer cause even in the shade the sweat and salt spray can make it very hard to stay on. If you are at the point around June, July you can watch the whales all day..

Have fun.
One Day Hero
3/09/2011
11:11:13 PM
On 29/08/2011 benjenga wrote:
>I have climbed at frog to summers in a row and as long as your off by lunch
>time its fine, start climbing again around 3.
>Also coolum cave and yes mt Stuart at townsvile has some good climbing
>if your in the area.
>I would advise not to go to point perp in summer

Let's think about this for a second..........

If you can't handle the point in summer (sun goes off Windjammer Wall by 12; I recommend swimming and drinking beer till 4, then climb till 8), how the fuch can a north facing, black, smooth, jamming crag in queensland be ok?................yes, that's right, benjenga is a retard!
chrisb
4/09/2011
8:46:34 AM
Assuming I don't have a job...

I'd be interested (in order of preference) Moonarie, Frog and Point Perp. There's loads I'd like to do in Tasmania too. Obviously the Blue Mountains, Gramps/Araps and Buffalo have their usual charms.

Re: Point Perp. As it is an active naval base you ordinarily only have access on weekends (you can call the ranger station on a Friday to check for the coming weekend 02 4448 3411). That leaves Nowra (woo!) during the week or you can go on the school holidays:
http://www.boardofstudies.nsw.edu.au/events/vacations.html
when they are open. Christmas time is apparently quite busy. I reckon late September would be nice.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
There are 59 messages in this topic.

 

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