Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

metal on metal 22-Apr-2009 At 11:15:44 PM Paulie

Message

On 22/04/2009 Wendy wrote:
>In the course of discussing 30 different scenarios, I'm now unclear of
>exactly when people have had biners unclip -
>
>biner/biner, yep,
>bolt/biner, yep
>gear/biner, yep, happened to me a few times recently, setting a wire with
>the biner full of them and I tug on it only to almost loose my balance
>as the biner unclips leaving my wire behind!
>biner/draw, difficult but possible
>draw/draw, can't get it to happen no matter how I try.
>
>Has anyone actually had their biners unclip when extending a piece with
>draw/draw clipped with biner/biner rather than then more fiddly clipping
>the 2nd draw into the sling of the 1st draw?

I'm unsure what you're calling a draw Wendy, do you mean a full quickdraw setup, straight gate + sling + bent gate? If so, the flexibility of the sling makes it more difficult, but it could definately happen and Mr Murphy will make sure that you'll only see it happen when it matters most too...b@st@rd!

Bent gate to Bent gate is very easy to unclip, straight to straight much harder but as per previous posts, it does happen, especially on slabby routes where the gate of the draw next to the rock is weighted and is torqued quickly down and across the other one - especially where the climber is at an angle to the draw.

I agree that the old 2nd draw onto the sling of the 1st draw is fiddly but it's also reasonably bombproof...of course the easier option is to just have a few longer slings over your shoulder ready to go!