DMM "Bug". (Anodised Grey) Great all-rounder with exceptional friction. IMO)- NB NEW lighter model with scalloped sides.
Not as pictured. NB Only 3 left! $25.00
Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
|Self equalising anchor
||Sunday, 29 March 2009 At 2:37:26 PM
|On 31/07/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I have recently ordered the new edition of JL's book and intend to 're-educate' myself.
After thoroughly reading it (more than once!), and putting into practice some of it's concepts for a while now, I agree that this latest treatise on the subject is a good source of information.
>No matter; ... I know from my own experience that a cordalette does
> equalise pieces, ~> but only for a particular direction. Anything
>outside that alignment becomes less equalised, and the degree of this depends
>upon how far the powerpoint is skewed from the 'intended' alignment for
Hmm. I was right, but now understand this to be a 'distributed' anchor, rather than a truly equalised one.
I am not sure I fully agree with his dreaded 'cascade' failure writings in relation to cordelettes. I am not saying they can't /don't happen; but am suggesting that even when using static spectra, provided the protection is up to the task (eg multidirectional loading), the reality is that in most instances (from what I have read and heard), they hold up; ... and this probably due to the time element introduced which gives the dynamic rope more chance to do it's 'thing'.
... (~> maybe the anchor/s were not subjected to FF2 forces to start with)?
>When you have two people (and possibly multiple haulbags), on a hanging
>belay half way up a multipitch your sliding-x is a moot point.
>I won't be leaving my cordalette on the ground.
I shall continue to use my cordelette, but will now use it in equalette fashion for many trad belays where I deem direction of loading to be critical but of unknown voracity in the event of any anchor component/s failing under load.
I found it to be a good thing to re-evaluate and learn from the process.
Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia
Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
Australian Panoramic |
Australian Coast |
Australian Mountains |
Australian Countryside |
Australian Waterfalls |
Australian Lakes |
Australian Cities |
Australian Macro |
Landscape Photo |
Landscape Photography |
Landscape Photography Australia |
Fine Art Photography |
Wilderness Photography |
Nature Photo |
Australian Landscape Photo |
Stock Photography Australia |
Landscape Photos |
Panoramic Photos |
Panoramic Photography Australia |
Australian Landscape Photography |
High Country Mountain Huts |
Mothers Day Gifts |
Gifts for Mothers Day |
Mothers Day Gift Ideas |
Ideas for Mothers Day |
Wedding Gift Ideas |
Christmas Gift Ideas |
Fathers Day Gifts |
Gifts for Fathers Day |
Fathers Day Gift Ideas |
Ideas for Fathers Day |
Landscape Prints |
Landscape Poster |
Limited Edition Prints |
Panoramic Photo |
Buy Posters |