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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

classic climb, altered by inexperienced climber 11-Mar-2009 At 4:27:13 PM sweatypalms

Message

I was climbing in the Arapiles on the weekend, doing the second pitch of Yo-Yo, and noticed, right at the end of the pitch, what appeared to be a perfect spot to place my mate's brand new red tri-cam, recently purchased from his mate returning from the US. The following 2 steps right to the belay ledge meant that the tri-cam was heavily loaded while taking in rope.

My mate spent quite while trying to get it out, losing quite a bit of blood between his key and the rock, and a few tears at the thought of leaving it behind. I too spent time on it too but eventually had to give up.

It was the second time I've used them (the first time being a few metres below) and I have to admit I've fallen in love with them. But just like the song says (http://www.swarpa.net/~danforth/climb/sinkthepink.html), they can be awefully hard to get out. A traditional cam is designed with a reversible action. Tri-cams are not: you can pull the dynema, but you can't push it. So if you load it up it can easily become stuck.

Personally I prefer being a "bumbling chastised inexperienced leader" who places bomb-proof pro and has left behind 1 piece in 11 years of leading than be an arrogant judgemental expert. Its placement hasn't altered the climb because it is well after completing the crux in a safe stance. The "damage" to the climb was more than offset by the resulting later support of Natimuk business community.

...as for the latest news of its removal, I'm amazed!